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Good idea right here. I might see if a tab brakes off first. I don’t think they’ll break off but you never know. Options.

If it were me I’d clean all that paint of it first with some lacquer thinner to expose anything hiding under it. I think theirs a foam gasket under the lens. It may be disintegrated or hard as a rock if it’s still there. Either way theirs only one way to do it. Gently bend up the tabs and slowly...

I tested that one right out of the box. Dead on at 14.3 volts. Tested the adjustment both ways and reset to 14.3. The only reason I spent that much money on it was that I’d already been through 3 in the few years prior. When they failed my voltage spiked pinning the voltmeter. Not good. This guy...

I have that one. In use now for 2 years. I was having the same quality issues you’re talking about. So far....so good.

Wow....that’s terrible.

Those manifolds warp like fish out of water in the hot sun all day. If you place the flange side on a bench you can see how bad it is. Although it seems to be a manufacturing defect and heat cycles that do the damage according to everything I’ve read. I’ve never reused them or replaced with new...

I’ve done it a few times. It can be nerve wracking when the studs broken beneath the plane of the block and your doing a back stud using a mirror. Lol.

That’s good info right there. Sometimes these anomaly’s can’t be detected and we just end up throwing money at it without really knowing or figuring out what the real problem is. Thanks.

Oh boy....oops.

^All of this....a 440 in that little 63 engine bay will produce some heat that could have a negative impact on a VR. Where's the VR located in relation to headers/ exhaust manifold etc. Keeping the VR as cool as possible will help it. The MADD bypass def helps with old brittle wiring and ammeter...

Thanks Del. I quoted what I’ve read and thought I learned from the inter web and such before I converted to HEI.

Is your accel coil an ecore type? The coil should be matched to the module. HEI requires an ecore coil. Although I’ve heard blaster 2 coils work. I’m using an accel ecore and haven’t had any problems.

Sweet ride Rusty. You probably already know that bad grounds are the bane of most of our electrical problems with these cars. I ran a short ground wire from the back of my alternator, there should be a grounding post, to the block. I also ran a ground wire directly from my negative battery post...

I’d double triple check the wires again then be sure I’m not out 180* on my distributor. Sounds like timing if nothing fuel related has changed and the parts aren’t broken.

Did you take a look at the rotor to be sure the contact is tight to the cap? I had a brand new cap once that had a broken piece on the coil contact. Had me scratching my head for a bit. Also you said new distributor so maybe take a look at the reluctor and make sure it’s tight on the shaft. That...

@318willrun has done the conversion directly on his distributor as many others have but I'm pretty sure @TrailBeast has done this exact thing himself using the stock module as above. I've done the stand alone conversion myself too on my 67. It's pretty damn good.

I’m not really sure. I’d give em a call and ask. Couldn’t hurt. Good luck.

I've used this before. The heat sink brackets can mount on a bracket or inner fender and can be used for any type ecore. I'm using them on an accell ecore now. PerTronix 60115 Flame-Thrower HV Coil 60,000 Volt E-Core 1.5 ohm

With the crush washer You shouldn’t have to thread it in super tight. Maybe give you the shorter thread length and seal you need.

Not sure if this helps or has much to do with your rotor issue but I had a roll pin come loose on a reluctor wheel. This caused the wheel to spin some on the distributor shaft. Made it skip terribly and had me pulling my hair out.

You can’t beat Matt’s speaker adapters to replace the stock dash speaker. Super easy and a multitude of speaker choices.

Ok gang. Finally able to wrap this up. Followed 67dart273 testing guidelines and found to be a bad alternator. Oh and the reason it wouldn’t turn over was a faulty neutral switch. Fixed that too. Took me a couple days of nonexistent time but we’ll worth it. Thank you guys, as always it’s nice...

I think this is exactly what I need. Thank you 67dart273. I'll let you know how I make out.

Yes of course... I have the flat electronic vr, alternator has the post and 2 spade terminals. The vr blue and green wires to the alt field spade connections. All wiring came updated on this circuit when purchased. I think that's it?

It's a 67 with a 98 5.9 magnum but was this way when I bought it. Have never had a problem with it. The ignition switch is the original and a bit loose but no more than others I've seen. Have also done the MAD upgrade...

Will try all the above. I have the 2 wire connector and post alternator. Green and blue from the vr to the contacts. Alt housing is also grounded to the block. Never had an issue. My next thoughts were trailbeasts in that order but i'll def make sure of the battery condition prior. Working today...

Hi Guys, The other day I was out as a cruise night and noticed my voltage all of a sudden became erratic on the low side at idle. I was actually idling through the parking lot when the voltage dipped and caused a stumble and stall. At increased rpm the voltage recovered and all was good. Checked...

Will do rumblefish...thanks.

AJ....damn...I was totally screwed up. That makes all the sense in the world. Sometimes I’m not so bright. Thank you both. Mattax...I wish had that guideline to begin with. You guys are making me smart in my old age.

This is mostly street driven with a few track passes now and then for fun. Definitely going to slow down the curve some by installing the second medium spring and try it. Right now initial 20, final 32, with vacuum 36 but in way early I think. Going to try to bring it all in at the tc stall...