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That’s how I’d install it Steve....like Murray said....in fact now that I think about it that’s how I did it to.

If your replacement cables are the right parts sounds like you have something else going on there. Can you compare the old cables to the new? If not pictures might be helpful.

The parts on the left look like they’re for a power brake booster assembly. I’d go with your original rod. Smarter guys will chime in.

Sounds aftermarket.

Richard are you sure you’re not missing something about the tire measurement that’s on it? If it truly is a 215/95/15 that shows a 31” diameter tire which is wayyyy to big for our cars I think. No wonder it’s rubbing the fender. Double check that tire size as most of us don’t run anything that...

New when it comes to brake stuff. Cheap enough. Same stuff just new.....unless you upgrade. Jmho...and what I do myself.

Great pics....I don’t see any correlation to raising and lowering having an impact on braking but smarter folks might ....good luck troubleshooting.

This ^ looks pretty good.

I've "bench bled" them while in the car without any problems at all. Just be careful how fast you depress the pedal of you can have a big mess and more than you bargained for in the paint removal category...lol. With the hood up you can view it between the hood and cowl until all the air is...

I have nearLy the same setup and set, cut my prop valve in after the D block and mounted it to the frame rail just like you’re asking. My prop valve adjustment is wide open for best front/rear braking. I bet it would work either way but I wanted to keep my D block in place. Good luck. Brian.

Not sure what size bore your mc is but I had a mc with too big a bore that resulted in a super hard pedal and very little braking with a well bled system. Not sure if this is what you’re experiencing at all but thought I’d throw it out there.

I ran my line lock button switch to my console ash tray recess. Slide open the cover and engage, release and close the slide cover. Invisible.

Front disc only.

With SSBC you can buy a couple diff kits depending on what you want to do. They have an at the wheel kit only or a complete with mc and components kit. Based on mustang platform I think. I’ve heard good things about the scarebird kit too.

I had the same issue after a front disc upgrade. A 15/16 bore mc fixed it. No power booster. But def call Dr.Diff.

You could also check out SSBC or Scarebird..both work well but two different directions to get to the same place. SSBC Performance Brake Systems Mopar

Those look like stainless lines. The short side will def stretch easily enough.....the long side I spliced with a section of stainless brake line I had and just re shaped my line to fit. I made my splice on the long section next to the pumpkin. If you didn't know you wouldn't know but you'll...

I had the same issue once. Spliced in a section.

I have the later and received the early lines. I had some stainless line so pieced a flared end section in..

Swapped my 10" front drums to SSBC discs and stock 14's fit fine. No caliper interferance at all. The SSBC rotors have dual lug patterns so you can retain the small bolt pattern or go with big simply by moving the lug studs. I believe SSBC requires the fronts to be stock 10" drum brakes though.

I had the same problem...Bad master cylinder. Check out this thread... http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=255438

Hi Roy, My SSBC rotors came with both size studs installed and I just had to knock out the studs I wasn't using. I'd give them a call and see what gives....Brian

I used Dr Diffs mastr and coupled it to an MBM booster unit. Had to run out the MC bolt holes a bit but braking is awesome.

I had a 7.25 once....lasted about a week...lol

Okie doke....thanks. Gonna hafta get on that. ...Bri

Master's brand new Kim, bench bled...you think?

Could use some help here guys. I've got a power disc conversion that works great. (SSBC) Brakes grab and hold well with great pedal feel. Plenty of vacuum @ 21". My problem is that when I'm stopped with my foot on the pedal for a length of time the pedal ever so slowly pushes to the floor...

I did the 153w at the wheels conversion on my 67 dart. I thought the directions could be better as they send you combined "A" and "B" body instruction sheets. They were a little vague on caliper mounting direction as they can be different for the 2 body species. No problem if you have an idea on...

A quick update....found an 8" booster cheap and installed. This is exactly the feel i was looking for along with great breaking. 340sFastback, I read your brake page on the 'cuda. Liked lots and super informative. Thank you. Lonewolf...thanks for the breakdown on MC logic...surley makes sense...

billd and all, installed 1" bore MC....lo and behold all is well....what a difference the bore size made. Car stops very well...no pulls and is easy on the leg. I wonder what it would be like with an 8" dual diaphragm booster. Thanks guys.