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Any pics of the uncut installs and the driveshaft to tunnel clearance? I run a 3.5" diameter aluminum driveshaft.

If the trans is 3* degrees tailshaft down then you want the pinion 3* nose up under power. This usually means the pinion needs to be from 1* degree nose up to 3* nose down at rest to compensate for wrap. With the Hotchkis springs its a crap shoot because of the amount of wrap is ridiculous. If...

I made my suggestions based on having the same springs. I have 1" longer rear shackles, raised/lowered the front eye, added 2 half leafs to the bottom of the spring packs and STILL needed to add an anti-wrap device.

Just get some Caltracs and call it a day. Then you can leave everything else as is.

Did you use the Hotchkis front hangers that come with the springs? If so, put the stock ones back on. If it is a Dart, 111" WB, it is to low. I wouldn't ditch the Dana for anything. I do know the Hotchkis springs suck with wrap, they will say they're fine but they are not. I made some Assassin...

It will wear the upper shackle bushings quicker than normal but nothing bad for short term.

TKO tranny's are the next evolution from the T-5 and even they suck IMO. Shift fork bending POS.

T5's are a shitbox transmission, they couldnt hold up to a 225hp 302, unless you're gonna put one behind a 64 273 Valiant, save yourself the headache.

You definitely want the LS version for bellhousing availability. Plus you can use a factory Viper slave cylinder. A 7/8" bore master has been flawless on mine with the Viper slave.

With the low miles I would run it but im betting its gonna need a mainshaft swap anyway.

Miller tool kit #10017 is you friend. Your TR6060 has a one piece countershaft and bronze fork sliders. And it is out of a new Challenger,Camaro etc. you'll want swap the mainshaft and tail housing with Viper parts to use a slipyoke.

I'm sure they have shaft bearings with specs for play as well as countershaft end play IIRC. They're basically the same case but the syncros and gears do not interchange with a t56. Don't think the shift forks do either.

Drain the fluid through a coffe filter for starters. Look for magnetic metal. If there is a bunch then something may be wearing abnormally. You will get brass or fiber material, that is normal.

I wouldn't touch it. Those transmissions are tough and unless you have some special tools and know exactly what is needed to set them up correctly you can trash them.

I ran the Mopar modifier in my fresh Power lok and it chattered BAD, tried more, made no difference. Called Cass,Dr.Diff, and explained what was happening and I thought for sure I broke a cross shaft or something and needed to pull it back apart. He said it sounded like the exact same thing he...

Oh and this... http://www.protouringmopar.com/showthread.php?1296-Viper-T-56

If you can do a little cutting and welding, you can do what I did. Its all in here>>>> http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=173837

Heres what I did clutch wise....http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=173837

If some one is the market I recommend Dr.Diff as he has new ones, Spicer style. I paid $250 shipped for my last used Spicer and it needed new clutches and also had a broken cross shaft. All said and done I could've spent about $20 more and had a new one from Dr.Diff.

My old Mosers were not taper friendly.

Been there and done that with the Royal Purple, I think its a wives tail or false advertising. I have a fresh rebuilt Power Lok in mine and it chattered after the first long drive in the heat at a bout 500 miles. At Dr Diffs recommendation I drained it and used GM modifier with some Lucas 75/140...

Yes foam goes between axle and backing plate. Other one goes between backing plate and housing.

This will do it....http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=173837

I just checked and you are right^^^^ Ford and Chevy T5s dont interchange but do use the same patterns as a TKO for their brands.

My "6spd progress" thread can help you with the clutch setup if you want to go that route. I have been driving mine, about 500 miles on her, and it works like it should and the right engage/disengage rates IMO. The 5.0 Mustangs use a clutch cable that I wouldnt bother with. I think the T5 uses...

Id try 6 degrees down. That should put you at 2 or 3 under power.

You can see what I made in the post. I miss spoke about its size it is made out of 2x1/2x3/16" C-channel. The way I did mine I have the trans as high as possible, can go 3/8" higher than stock if needed, and still not have a huge bulge in the tunnel with stock carpet. My engine is has about 3/4"...

Heres mine http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=173837 I converted from auto on the column but car was originally a /6 three on the tree so I had clutch pedals. Its very doable and last night I was running along at 90 mph at about 2200 rpm in 6th gear.

3.91s with a Viper 6spd.

They were gonna do a 350hp T5 kit IIRC. Would be nice for a 340 GTS stocker but thats about it.