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Thank you.. I like learning stuff from you guys..

I'm not the brightest bulb, but why would one need to have adjustable rods if they're just setting to stock length? Wouldn't the stock rod be the same?

Not a fan of air shocks. For a few more bucks you can get new or re-arched springs and get the height you're after.

I used a vise and a short piece of pipe to get it half-way. Then a thin bolt in the vise to push it through. Like butter..

Am I reading this right? You had it aligned and then replaced all the parts? If so, it really needs to be aligned after the parts swap..

I made one out of 3 u-bolts and a piece of scrap angle iron. Snugged the u-bolts and tapped the angle iron with a hammer. Knocked the loose easy.

Warm it up, put lots of lube on it and whack it.. works for me..

I only did it since brakes were involved... An ounce oc prevention..

when i went to hydraboost brakes, i added an external cooler in front of the radiator. less than $30.. cheaper option than the factory one if you feel you need it.

might check the upper crossmember the shocks attach to as well. i had an e-body that was a 'air shock nosebleed' back in the day. cracked the crossmember loose on both ends. I remember thinking 80 bucks to have it welded back up was an absolute fortune...

I run hydraboost in my Scout. Stock PS pump, with added cooler, has worked just fine for me. Check out VanCo PBS.. They have lots of experience with that stuff.

Thanks. Just for giggles, I'll go check it out this evening. If memory serves (which it often does poorly), the attachment of the tie rod ends sits inboard of the ball joints on this one. Just seems a bit contrary to what I've read.

Let me axe a silly question.. I have an International Scout with its stock Danna 44 front axle. The pitman arm goes forward to a drag link that pulls/pushes the spindle from in front of the axle. The left and right spindles are joined by a tie rod in front of the axle. The tie rod is shorter...

Not a chance!!!

Are you guys really suggesting he try a different hole???

Looks like all your birthday presents were waiting for you..

Looks nice..

I used a dremel to score the length of the sleeve and broke it open.

You can change to Saginaw style, just need brackets and hoses to match..

Yours appears to be the press on Federal pump. I believe the March setups use the Saginaw type (keyway) pumps.

Core charge??? Firm Feel boxes seem to have good reviews. I don't have one yet, but that's the way I'm gonna go..

Thanks Jeff. I have an old pump I can steal from...

Is this the same for a Federal pump?

Please 'splain how this is done? And start with the assumption that your audience is clueless..

I got a box like that. Kinda like Christmas!!

I just went all caveman on the LCA bushings.. Chisel, hammer and patience.. Once the shell is out, use a press to install new ones. Really wasn't that hard..

Mine bottomed out flush with the top of the control arm. 73 Swinger control arm..

That is correct. Folks I'd talked to were split about 50/50 on how bad you 'need' the higher pressure. Like you, I got most of the stuff free/really cheap. I decided to try stock pump and if needed later, it'd be an easy swap. I haven't had any issues. I understand that the stock pump is in...

I'm running one on my Scout on a stock Saginaw pump. I installed an auxiliary cooler just for insurance. Have had no problems with no pump modifications.

I've never heard anything good about poly LCA bushings (mine are rubber). If you don't mind the lack of dampening/vibration resistance you get from rubber, go poly everywhere else. But i don't know **** as my 'driver' is all rubber.. just tossing my uneducated opinion..