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Upto a few weeks back I've been daily driving my '62 NY wagon (413ci) with blocked heatriser port in the intake. Temps were around 40-45F. The car would start to run and idle rough and stall at slow speeds after a few minutes of driving... Why? The carb's idle-circuit was freezing up. Frost was...

If the engine really was not balanced before assembly.... ...with 8 KB-pistons roughly 150grams lighter than the stock pistons, there's some significant unbalanced weight flinging around in the engine now... I think you should be able to feel that by just putting your hand on the engine while...

If you really plan on keeping the 2-barrel carb, headers are of no real use and would make the install quite a bit more difficult in an A-body. But at the same time... keeping that 2-barrel means you will be leaving a lot on the table...!

How about a real hone and not these amateur-units?

idle vacuum could be into the 19-21s if you want to. You're probably running from a ported vacuum source.

Hook up a vacuum gauge and consider getting an AFR-gauge to see what is actually happening with your mixture. You can pinch the pcv-hose closed as a quick check. Most engines will run a little smoother that way, but if your pcv-valve is shot it will create a larger vacuumleak.

Welcome. Clamp the rubber PCV-line closed when idling as a test. Idle speed will most likely drop and get a bit steadier. Could be the PCV is causing a slight lean condition that causes an occassional misfire.

Just extract the images from the PDF and post them here again.

'70s 318 smog-engines have a 8.6:1 adv. static compression ratio. I milled a pair of 302s down to 60/61cc and slapped them on a zero-deck 360 netting a 11.3:1cr with a thin headgasket.

From what I can see, a previous owner used the correct pulleys to do an 'airco-delete' setup. If you want airconditioning again you need the correct matching pulleys AND that tensioner.

I'll be building a 360 for a friend of mine in the next couple of months, so I told him about the possibility SpeedMaster might have Black Firday-sale again soon... pretty much 2 SpeedMaster heads for the price of just 1 Eddy head.... But he's not a real patient person and had already ordered...

Mine aren't even on a shelf. Waiting for a Jones roller camkit to arrive and then hopefully be able to make time to do a mill and valvejob on the heads and install everything on the daily.

6mpg most likely means the guy can't tune his engine. ;) Taking heads off a running engine just to mill them mostly turns into a full/partial rebuild because you will always notice things you can't leave 'unfixed'. A cold air-intake system could also bring back some 'peppyness' to an engine.

I would think this could be updated at a later time as it's all digital.

A friend of mine is ready to order a ProFlo-4 for his 360. I had a look at the software upfront and it seems nicely layed out, although the ignition advance options are limited. You can only do basic 3-point 'advance', just like with a regular distributor and 3 steps of 'load'. Having...

The mid/late-80s stock rollercammed 318 I had in my Dart ran perfectly on 0w20 oil.

There's usually no need to run a thick(er) oil with a fresh rebuilt engine. Unless of course you went on the 'far-side' on the bearingclearances for some reason. There's also no reason to run with 80psi of oilpressure all the time. Let the oil-pressure gauge tell you want the engine needs.

Got the TShirt. Some years ago I installed used solid lifters (from 2 different sets too), on a used hydraulic cam, and drove some 3+ years with that setup. I figure-8 the lifters on fine emery paper, put paste on the cam, and some additional cam break-in additive in the API SJ oil and re-broke...

Ballast resistor is probably too 'heavy' (too much resistance). Or there's resistance in the wiring/connectors/bulkhead-connector somewhere. Easy to check where the voltage is being dropped from 12 to 4.

There's only 4 volts at the coil. That's the problem. Should be around 9 volts and 12v while cranking.

Stupidity? But that doesn't look like a weld to me. Probably an anti-rattle attempt.

2007 Mopar Performance catalog

Mike mentioned the cam would make more pressure than my current one, which I picked solely on the rpm-range listed at the time. I've got a XR274 solid roller in a 496ci with longram intakes and I like it's power. The engine is a bit of a handful to have idling in drive because of the fuel...

Well my car is a single fuel setup, just propane. So I don't have any mileage numbers on what it would do on gasoline. Just looked up some prices, and it occured the LPG is more like 1/3rd the price of gasoline (!). Premium Gasoline (98RON) is around €1.68 p/Liter. Propane (LPG) is around €0,51...

SB clockwise BB counter cw

The stuff costs more than half of what gasoline costs overhere, AND it can cope with high compression ratios better. I'll take a little loss of power for granted then. Engine will be updated with a set of Streetmaster heads and a Mike Jones 268 rollercam in the future.

'302' heads are milled to 60/61cc. Stock valves. Polished chambers with a few quench grooves. KB 107 pistons. 0.029" quench height. Cranking-comp is 208-210 psi. AirGap intake. Fuel is Propane. Normal daily operating range is 500 - 3000rpm. Engine hardly ever sees 5k rpm, but starts to come...

I'm running a pair of 302s on a 360ci. Street-only engine. 11.3:1cr. Smoothed the ports and gasketmatched everything. CompCams XE256H.

If you have an old intermediate shaft you can grind the teeth off the gear so it clears the cam and use it as a priming-tool. Or remove the gear completely and fab/weld a socket on the remaining shaft. You can prime an engine with a ratchet tool if you need to.

Sometimes it’s better to just NOT use what you have laying around...