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Any a-body spring will work! I also dipped mine in that stuff you dip the handles of tools in to stop it from scratching the hood and the hood support where it mounts.

Get with Rick at Laysons. The link is to the right in the ad info...... Look over there>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Just did this Mopar in October. Quarters had about 15-20 hours block time after a second respray of filler primer. Turned out arrow straight after the Viper red was applied!! I used Durablocks, both round and flat. Also a stiff straight radiator hose as suggested in a prior post for all the...

Depends on quality of the bodywork really. Apply 3 coats of high build filler primer, start with 180 grit dry after a guide coat is applied to help find problem areas. You will probably remove most of those three coats! Apply two more coats of primer then start with 320 after a guide coat. I use...

Looks worse than it really is guys! From what I see the culprit drove a flathead screwdriver between the cylinder and the doorskin and peeled the sheetmetal back. Just use a flat steel dolly and a shrinking hammer to work it out. You will need to peel the ripped peice back around with a pair...

I used a Ford color on my hot rod. It was code# SN (Sonic Blue). Also used another Ford color on my Prostreet Ram that was on the Ranger Edge and the Super Duty trucks.

Several of our club members use it. I wouldn't! You have to reapply to remove with ease, very hard to remove otherwise. Guess it softens the old coat. Also fades when sitting out in the sun too long. It is sold by the gallon at Lowes and comes in white and black. I think other colors are...

I used the Metro weatherstrips on my a-body. Fit was good and a bit softer than the Sofseal weatherstrips. You can get kits on ebay somewhat cheap, that is where I got mine. On another note, use the 3M black weatherstrip adhesive. Work fast cause it dries fast. A little goes a loooong way too.

I forgot to mention, stay away from aerosol primers! They do not stop water from soaking in and contaminating the bare metal. Only the catylized primers and sealers will do that until they are sanded again.

Refrain from going to bare metal if possible. If you do you will need to treat it as the old steel has 0 corrosion protect. Todays sheetmetal contains a good amount of Zinc! If your not doing a show/resto I would just take it down to the original finish and work from there. If you break...

Sorry, should have elaborated a bit more! Shrinking, cracking and popping loose is a direct issue with the filler being too thick and improper prep. Still won't use it!! Evercoat all the way. Pricey but well worth it. Once the tack has been sanded off it is easy to sand just don't let it...

I personally won't use a filler. Most need 36 grit scratches for a physical adhesion! Also shrinks and tends to crack and pop loose eventually. I work the dent out with my EagleII and apply a small amount of Evercoat 100416 metal glaze. It actually has adhesive in it. Sticks to all substrates...

Your call bro! Be sure to stitch weld a 6"x6" 1/4" plate to the firewall and the framerails on both sides. Something to weld the down bars to similar to the bars on a roll cage. I am sure you have seen the way it has been done in the forums here. Good luck!

Sorry but they do more than just that! I personally have seen the difference with and without them. Driving hard into corners will eventually crack the welds there were the apron meets the cowl area. To each their own I suppose! I would also look into a brace the bolts to the top of the...

Add a pair of Firewall to inner fender/apron braces just for giggles. 73 up A-bodies have them from the factory. Also helps keep the engine bay square!

Solvent pop is caused by over application and not using the correct flash time between coats. The last coat was applied before the prior coat flashed off therefore sealing that coat and not allowing the solvent to evaporate. We have the same humidity here bro! Nothing to do with the solvent...

Harbor Freight or ebay. A $20 HVLP gun works just fine for this kind of work. You can catch a swinging deal on Satajet guns on ebay ocassionally.

Isn't that stuff like $35+ a can?? I know there are far better products out there rather than use weld-thru primer and much cheaper. Zinc aids in the prevention of rust but not well enough in my opinion. A catylized epoxy primer would be the best option imo. Once and done, never worry again.

Probably undercoating from the sound of it! A scraper and map torch does wonders!! :)

MISTAKE!!! Not matter what paint you use this will bite you every time!!! Prep all parts and paint them at one time! If not, when you reassemble you WILL see a color shift and will look like ****. Direction you spray the paint, air pressure, humidity, temperature, reducer/reduction all play...

No point! Just order a single stage color and use hardener in it. Reguardless, the poly paint you want will still cost more even without the metallic mica in it!! It will be transparent as hell and the coverage will be the real issue. You will end up using twice the amount of paint needed to...

As stated prior to this post, Por15 will not stick! PO of my old Cuda applied it and it peeled from the bare metal surface. Use a good Epoxy Primer like PPG DP90LF. Has its own etching properties! No need for acid wash prior to application. Or take it to your local Linex sprayer and have it...

Was a while ago but had the R/T hood from AAR on my P/S Ram. Back then they produced quality glass. Shipped nice with just 2 coats of primer and a good block, turned out show quality!! But, like I stated in prior post the quality failed after the company sold to Stinger!!

AAR was top quality until they sold out several years ago. PRICEY parts!! For raceweight glass go to http://www.up22.com/dart67.htm Scroll near the bottom of the page for 70.

Yep! If theres one close.

Looks like these for all hardtop Mopars, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Plymouth-2-Door-Hardtop-Quarter-Window-Rubber-Weatherstrip-Seals-NEW-/310658054265?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1968%7CModel%3ABarracuda&hash=item4854a9b879&vxp=mtr#ht_1982wt_951

http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-CHRYSLER-NEWPORT-DERBY-FULLSIZE-FULL-SET-HEADLIGHT-TRIM-RING-HARDWARE-SCREWS-/231082560698?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cd980cba&vxp=mtr#ht_44wt_917

The new Chally color has yellow pearl in it. Its actually a Viper color.

Yep!

That would be called RapidMatch X-5 Spectrophotometer through your local PPG dealer. Works well!