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I just wired mine up. Fused the wire going to the main power/kill switch only. Probably didn't have to since there is nothing hidden and you are always right there when it's running. A quick disconnect at the battery is a good idea too, but I don't have 1. Cley

Since I am using parts I already have, I'll use the stock distributor with the 6 plus box I have then. Thanks for the input! Cley

My 74 Duster is going through some changes to increase power, improve 1/4 mile performance and over all fun factor. I am building an approximately 400hp 360 Magnum to replace the tired 318. It has an A500 transmission and a 4.30 gear. It cruises the highway at 2600 rpm doing 65mph. I am looking...

NSS is working because it starts in neutral. Key switch is working cause it starts in neutral. Linkage probably just not quite pushing the lever all the way in park. May be the shift lever is a bit slopped out. Cley

I like the look of it! Cley

Mopar sending unit works on a Chev as long as it has a cable output. Cley

The woodgrain doesn't come with it. You have to use the factory dash bezel. Cley

https://www.intellitronix.com/product-page/1970-1976-dodge-duster-dart-led-digital-dp6013 Obviously not for everyone but I am interested! Cley

I wasn't sure I liked that either but when I grab a shift light for the track, then I think it will be fine. Cley

Yup! I had to run into the city and it's all around better! Cley

I just changed the tach in my 74 Duster. I went from a cheap 80s parts store tach to a nice Autometer tach that I got for Father's day from my kids. Now the car idles smoother both in neutral and in gear, to the point that I will likely turn the idle down a bit because it went from 900 rpm to...

Thanks for the replies! Good thing is that I bought the lot of parts for other things and not this distributor! Cley

So lean burn didn't use vacuum advance? I never had anything to do with lean burn. Cley

Was told it's for a big block. The drive shaft is about 1/4" longer than a small block distributor. Cley

I'm far from an expert on this stuff, but I never saw or heard of a dual pickup electronic distributor before. No vacuum advance. Anybody know what this is about? I bought a box full of ignition parts from a guy and this was in it. Cley

Yeah, you definitely can't use the TBI distributor. Best to use older style electronic or a points distributor. Cley

I am looking at the same issue with my son's truck right now. 2 things I know are the Air Conditioning has a relay that would cut the AC compressor at WOT and the cruise control was run through the computer as well. Good luck with the change over! Cley.

Nothing melted. It just got very brittle and caused the connectors to push through the plastic so they make crappy connection. If I could just find the plastic part that would be great. Cley

It's for a 74 Duster. I mostly need the harness side of the key switch harness but I'd take both sides of both steering column connectors if I could get them. I've found aftermarket but I was hoping for factory. Cley

Has anyone ever found repop steering column electrical connectors? Not the crimps but the plastic part. I have searched and cannot find them. Cley

I used this exact gauge with excellent results. The price is right too! Cley

My parts store ignition box would break up after about 4500 so I installed the Hi-rev box from Ehrenberg this spring. It cured my problem and I can shift at 6000 again. Not saying there isn't something better but it will work for you. Cley

Find a factory service manual and make one of these? They are taped together in order left to right. You can follow each wire from end to end on it. Dont be afraid to use a highlighter or colored pen to trace along the wires so they will be easier to follow. Should be able to fix about...

What's wrong with it? Is it hacked up? Consider restoring it yourself. Grab the factory wiring diagram, peel off all the old tape, sheathing and fix what's wrong. You just need an assortment of Packard 56 crimps and a crimper. If your bulkhead is bad, you can get a new one. Feel free to PM me...

Check the grounds and the contacts in the socket. Also if you leave the front signal light bulbs as incandescent, a regular flasher will work. Only problem is, if the front signal burns out, your back LED bulb won't flash. An electronic flasher is cheap and directly replaces the original. Cley

I used black hockey tape to protect the wire harness after I was done. Just make sure you are done cause it isn't the easiest to remove after. It protects really well though. Cley

Get ahold of a factory service manual, pull the harness out and go through it wire by wire until it is back to factory. Think about your aftermarket accessories (tach, stereo etc) while you are doing it and make provisions for them. An added bonus of doing this is you can troubleshoot easily...

I followed the wiring diagrams in the factory service manual and restored my existing harness. it's cheap and easy. Just get some Packard 56 ends from ebay or wherever and the rest of it is no problem. You are best off to completely remove the harness you are working on. Then what I did was peel...

I have Patriot headers on my Duster with a mini starter from an 89 full size truck (I'm sure they are all the same). The headers are no problem, but I did remove the wiring adapter (short bus bars) and attach wires directly to studs on starter. Just insulate them so they don't short across. Mine...

I just searched Packard 56 on Ebay. That's where I got mine. Cley