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Could be... i have changed a few of the switches along the way

I think I have a spare switch- Im gonna pull/swap it when I get a chance and see what happens. Thanks!

Someone else had mentioned that to me... but if you look at my pic taken a couple years ago- my headlights and parking lights are both on.

1969 Dart GT vert Parking lights work fine when on... but when I turn my headlights on- the parking lights go out. All blinkers work fine on or off. Cleaned bulkhead connection while back and installed new turn signal switch but dont know if it was doing this before as well. My wife brought it...

I used the Pertonix for bunch of yrs with success... but as noted above, I didnt realize my distributor was on its last leg. And when it finally went- dumped the Pertronix for new Mopar package. Wish I did this from the start.

Just like when I was in school... never read thru the whole thing before I answered. lol

I had the Pertronix on my 69 Dart (1976 360 with 670 Street Avenger) for 8yrs and recently had issues. Not sure if it was Pertronix or distributor but decided to go with $130 for new distributor Mopar Licensed Electronic Distributor Conversion Kit 440-427 conversion over $80 for another...

Thank you Steve- This is the crimper: Delphi Packard Five-cavity Wide-range Crimping Tool 22-12 AWG / 24-14 AWG

Thanks so much... but I ordered a variety of gauges from an Ebay seller along with terminal release tool and crimper (thanks for the guidance/help Ray). The only ones Im having trouble finding are the 10ga...

Hey Ray- that guy on Ebay doesnt have 10ga terminals... and dont see any options-0 what do you suggest? Would 12-10ga work if I can find it or is there a strait 10ga...? Thanks DC

Thanks Ray- That kit comes with 20 TERMINALS OF EACH SIZE 18,16-14, 12ga and then would need to add 10 ga. Appreciate the heads up. Sent you a message...

Threw a volt meter on battery and it jumped around quite a bit (13.75- 14.00) until she got warm- then sat at 12.85-12.90 and was 12.83-12.87 with a moderate idle. Did not see any big fluctuation (with alt gauge click/pulse) once it got warm. Decided to pull the bulkhead apart and see what was...

I had a new Mopar p3690732 constant output regulator in the garage and installed it with same results. Car maintains great idle and sounds good- no change in engine idle as the ALT gauge clicks. But the volt meter does show inc voltage as it idles... jumping up and down. Going to call...

Heres a video with it running... as you can hear-its idling fine. You can hear the click and see pulse at about the 4 or 5 second mark...

1969 Dart GT with 1976 360 Holley 670 Avenger 8mm Super stock wires Champion RN12YC plugs MSD Blaster 2 coil Pertronics Ignitor/Electronic ignition New battery, alternator and regulator (approx 3mo ago) Noticed last week that it was sluggish in 1st gear... and backfired once thru carb. Thought...

$25... no friggin way. Im gonna try the $4 socket and try to modify it. JMO

If you cant find originals... would something like this work? I would also like to find some replacements. Corrosion is really bad from Fla salt air. Anybody else have success finding something more original? Sockets Bulbs Automotive 1157 1154 6 12 Volt Brake Tail Light Blinker Turn | eBay...

never caught this first time around... thanks for bumping it.

Constant flow Mopar "Racing" regulator. My headlites would dim when the idle dropped. Somebody recommended this regulator (P3690732), which I got directly from Mopar dealer ($23). I installed it on my 69 340 Dart and it has kept the headlites bright even at idle. Havent had any problems but...

Thanks for all the feedback! Everything seems to have resolved... gonna leave the Blue Racing regulator on

Any good or bads in regards to the blue regulator? Has kept my headlights from dimming due to idle but heard it can be hard on battery/alternator? Thanks for the article! Remember seeing that once but never saved it.

p/n P3690732

I think thats the one... I got it from the parts dept @ my local dealer. Ill check the p/n tomorrow.

UPDATE: Think I finally got it "figured out". Just not sure what was the final solve... Noticed ground wire from back of alternator to manifold was not great so made a new wire w/connections and made sure ground area was clean. Cleaned ground strap from engine to firewall. Sanded firewall...

good stuff... subscribed to thread

The reason this site rocks.... alot of mindless chat and babble going on lately in the General Threads- but this is why I keep coming back. Members who help members.

lookin good..... keep the updates comin

Is that the one w/an external fan? it looked like a different bolt configuration....

Thanks- thats the 1st thing I checked- pulled off ground to body and engine and sanded/cleaned well. Like I said- I do have some concern on the quality of my positive cable though... need to get up in air though to get to starter connections.

pishta- funny you should mention that. Car has been a little sluggish/hesitant out of 1st gear lately (occ bogs). Was gonna clean carb real well- change fuel filter and check timing. Wanna pickup a vacuum gauge so I can better set air/fuel mix screws. Thanks 65Val- as noted... not a big fan of...