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None of the parts I listed are non-stock. They are all reproductions of the original parts purchased at Brewers. Do you know if the short Fork Pivot is correct? Brewer told me that the small one is for a big block and the larger one is for the small block. They should know, but I still wonder...

Thank you for your questions and comments. I laid under the car with the inspection cover off while the clutch pedal was pushed with the engine running. The grinding is coming from the Pressure Plate or the TOB and not from the transmission. The clutch disc was installed the correct side toward...

The clutch grinds on my 1969 Dart 340, 4 Speed, when I fully depress the clutch toward the floor. I recently installed a McLeod Borg and Beck Pressure Plate. I believe that I have the clutch adjusted properly with 5/32” slack at the fork and 1” at the pedal. Has anybody else ever encountered...

I found one of the Forums (attached below) about Pilot Bearings, that I had read in the past. For whom it may concern: Madscientist said "I despise roller bearings where a pilot bushing SHOULD be. I have had to repair (at the minimum) 15 input shafts that are wrecked from roller bearings." Any...

in reading through these Forums, I found that some members had success using the pilot bearing and some members said they failed. I read one post that said when the trans was pulled, the pilot bearing flopped out. It made me wonder if it was previously just hanging on the input shaft. I was also...

I'm sorry, I didn't make something clear. Rebushed was the term used by a crank regrinder that didn't know the specs. It doesn't mean the pilot bushing. This crank may have been an automatic crank that was drilled larger improperly. It is slightly large and out of round. So a machinist told me...

Does anybody know if there are published Chrysler specs on the pilot bushing ID, OD and installed ID? Also the crankshaft pilot hole ID and an Input Shaft OD? I may have my 340 crank rebushed. I know the Brewer Website states some specs on their pilot bushings, but I wouldn't mind verifying...

* My transmission is an original A-833. The BH is the original 482. * I used an old input shaft purchased from Brewer's, as an alignment tool. I found out the hard way last summer about the inaccuracy of the plastic alignment tool. * I'm sure the bearing retainer and bolts are original. I...

I talked with Wayne at Chryslers at Carlisle a few weeks back. He suggested shortening the pilot bushing end of the input shaft. The input shaft appears to have the usual amount of slop. The bearing retainer is the original one that fit in the BH while running the 600 miles on the McLeod clutch...

This is a long and complicated question. So for intrepid Mopar problem solvers, get your reading glasses and here goes: Last summer I ordered a 10 1/2” McLeod Borg and Beck clutch and pressure plate for my stock ‘69 Swinger 340. I received the scalloped 10.95” PP, an 11”clutch disc (sizes as...

After putting about 600 miles on my new McLeod Borg and Beck clutch in my 69 Dart 340, it started making a grinding noise when the clutch pedal was fully depressed. I sent the Aetna throw out bearing to the McLeod tech department for analysis. They said it was damaged and also showed...

The dust cover I removed from my 340 had some upper parts of the metal cut away. So I bought a new one. Unless I am looking at something wrong laying under the car, does the passenger side have a hole that looks like it has to go between the bell housing and engine block? If so, it seems like...

I had terrible clutch chatter on the 69 Dart 340 that I bought last winter. The transmission mount had a rip in it. There didn't seem to be a problem with the flywheel (which I had turned about .006), clutch or pressure plate. Turns out that the fork is a big block fork that measured 11" long...

I need to have my A-833 gone over. Are there any recommendations for the best shop in Michigan that has expertise rebuilding Mopar 4 speeds? I live in Jackson, Michigan and am only an hour away from Detroit.

I finally got the 4 speed out thanks to all your advice. I also removed the Z bar and distributor cap, as recommended. I don't have a fan shroud to remove. I had blocks under the rear of the oil pan, which I lowered a little bit. I was surprised that the engine stopped lowering when it stopped...

So Trailbeast, it sounds like I leave in the cross bolts on the engine mounts and jack up the front of the engine to tilt the trans downward. And the engine mounts can take the strain. It sounds like I need to remove the Z bar to do this. I wonder why the service manual didn't mention this.

I am trying to remove my 833 out of a 69 Dart. I've slid it back some, but the case hits a cross brace in the tunnel and it won't slide any further. Doesn 't seem like I could lower it because the main drive pinion and spline is still in the throw out bearing and fork. Any advice? Thanks.

The first photo shows why I had to remove the Cluch Pedal Assembly. Before I bought the 69 Swinger, the C clip and washer must have fallen off and allowed the clutch king pin to work its way out of the bearings which caused the clutch pedal arm and stop arm to bend away from the rubber stop...

I might Bad Sport. Maybe I'll see you there.

When I take this 69 Swinger to local car shows it won't be judged for points. I just want to get it as close to original as possible. Since the Z bar was rusty and I had it sandblasted, I tried to match the color on the brackets. I ended up using VHT High Temp Cast Aluminum, which came pretty...

If it is gold zinc has anybody found a paint that looks similar for a correct appearing restoration?

I've had my Z bar sandblasted. It looks like it is an aftermarket one. It seemed to be a silver color. Can anybody please tell me what color the original Z bar color was in a 1969 Dart?

YAH! I finally got that clutch assembly out. Thanks for all the suggestions. But now I have another couple of questions. I've read some threads about removing the clutch spring but it is not crystal clear to me. Like using washers between the coils. Do you pound them in with a hammer? I ruined...

I got that roll pin out. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a set of punches, which was recommended in an old post. That worked like a champ. But before I pull the steering column out I was wondering if I have to make a couple of marks where that pin was so things will line up the same again or...

I did have that bracket removed. But, I think I see what you guys are saying about how to work that assembly out. I think I will remove the steering wheel column because it doesn't look like I can get the assembly out with it in place. There is a pin I have to remove by the steering box. It...

Has anybody else removed the clutch/brake assembly on a 67 - 69? I'm stuck. I can pull the assembly a little to the interior but it hits the bottom of the dash and a bracket that doesn't seem to be removable. Do I have to remove the dash and instrument cluster to get this assembly out?

Does anyone have any experience removing the Clutch/Brake Assembly on a 69 Dart? I have removed all the bolts, but the assembly hits a bracket in front around the speedo cable, before the bolts that attach the master cylinder clear the firewall. This bracket appears to be attached somewhere...