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I wired a hidden switch for power out of my key on my 71 Demon. I used a nice 40amp switch to make sure it would handle the power. It's under the dash but I'm sure if you got your head under there you could see it. And the thing is I usually forget to switch it off though when I park the car!

I thought they used a temp sensor on the upper rad hose. Either way it was for emissions and defiantly not for performance or economy. I think it did away with the vacuum advance as well and the car was tuned for minimum idle mixture. Someone else on here probably knows more about it.

I believe it was made by carter and was added to cars to help with emissions possibly in the late 60's. I doubt it's in working order. However a neat bit of nostalgia there. If it was me I'd remove it.

No I haven’t tried one but if I would of known there was adjustable ones I would of tried one. It was very frustrating just trying to stop the over charging voltage even though I thought I had coveted all the bases. And yea my voltage on the regulator was only .1 of a volt different than battery...

I agree, I like to see just under 14v for charging voltage. I tried 3 different regulators and 2 different batteries and I know have it charging at 14.2 volts. It was sitting close to 15 an AC delco regulator and one regulator had it at 15.4 volts on a fully charged battery which is to high in...

I did have 1 fail on me in the 40 years of driving Mopars with the resister. Now this was with one of those accel super coils with the resister they supplied. So I don't know if that caused a bit more current draw or not. I put my original resister in its place and she held until I sold the car...

I just went through this If you don't have a great ground on the switch the wiper won't park. I repainted my dash and that caused the grounding problem.

I think that is what I would do too. But you'll need to fuse it well and make sure the connection through the dash is in great shape as this is the weak point of the Mopars. If you put to much load on that it could cause the point where it goes through the bulk head to get hot and burn up. That...

What will help you is a wiring diagram from www.mymopar.com just pic your year and car and download under tools. What year and car do you have?

Yes I agree with Mike. I would bypass the bulkhead completely with a larger sized wire (with appropriate current handling capacity) from the alternator directly to the battery and put in a Voltage gauge inside the car.

On the starter relay you have 3 wires, red, violet and a second red wire going inside the car, if you wiring harness is original. Disconnect the red wire going inside the car. These goes to the amp gauge and then to the alt. See if that stops the large draw or short. Try this first, if not...

I beleive ron Francis and painless make kits. It's a new fuse panel and load of loose wire you cnnect yourself.

Sounds like a bad ground to me. Could be in the front or rear. They must be grounding through the light bulb. You can get free wiring diagrams at mymopar.com .

This might help you as well. 1968 Wiring diagram http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27

I used the revonator and it worked as advertised the only thing I didn't 'feal' any difference but did seem to work well. 84dodge, I went to the site you mentioned and the page for ignitions says nothing available for mopar ignition. http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/prelist.aspx?Product=R

There is a wiring diagram here, if that would help. http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=28

At work we used the 80/20 solder and it worked well. Also if you are using crimps especially where outside elements play a factor I use heat sealing crimps and as Daves69 said use a really good pair of pliers.

I went and checked the Demon out. Not running 6.2 volts on the coil lead and when running it jumps to 7.4 volts I couldn't check voltage on coil when cranking as I was by myself. What resistance is your resister? Mine was .8 of an ohm.

Has someone converted the car to an older model generator? Can you get some pics of what you have.

Could be a ground problem to that signal light, check the ground wire for corrosion. Come on, if the blinker fluid was low it would happen all the time!

Nice GaryS, Looks fantastic.

You could try painless or evans. http://www.evanswiring.com/catalog.htm http://www.painlessperformance.com/

You can print them here http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18 It's from mymopar.com

Dan what head lamp buibs do you pesonaly run, and can we p[urchase from you. Thanks Keith

I think when I had my dist redone it was set for 16 initial and 34 degree's total all in by 2600. I'm not sure how much altitude comes into play but we're at 3600. ft. This was on a 10 : 1 340. It ran great with noticable ping any where through the revs.

I would say if your at 14.5 at idle the that voltage should work fine with the wipers. The thing is you stated that the charge voltage is now at 12.3? This is to low. I just went out and checked my car with a VOM and it 's at 14.4, rev it to 1500 and it went to 14.7, and then would climb to...

There is a real simple wiring diagram on MYmopar. 1 diagram for 4 pin and one for 5 pin ignition box's. You probably want the 4 pin box. Here is the link: http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18

Both of my cars using the mini don't have the sheild I can't see it hurting though.

Getting rid of the bulf head connector, especially the amp meter fead through it will probably really help out. But yea, you sure learn alot about wiring an A body doing that.

I would think that, with that system you would not have a constant ground on the - (neg) side of the coil then. Therefore it shouldn't boil the coil. When you key on you put 6 volts on the coil, and when you crank it puts full voltage on the coil bypassing the resister. Makes no sence to...