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@RustyRatRod On a 64 to 66 Barracuda the wheel wells are larger and the limiting factor is tire contact with the spring rather than the the inside of the wheel well or the frame rails. By moving the spring over just over an inch you get the full use of the wheel well. However to move the spring...

I think you saying to leave the sides of the frame rails alone. I don't think the spring will fit as it is wider than the frame rails. You can leave one side of the original frame rail in place and cut the others side out to accommodate the spring relocation kit. I did this on my 65 Barracuda...

Can you make a thread on your work converting over to the PS Bogesen box. I have 65 Barracuda that I would like to do the same thing to. The only thing is I have TTI headers so I know it does make a difference. And thanks for bringing this up!

I found this online, 62 - 82 steering box instructions. 1955-1957 Chevy Power Steering Box (borgeson.com) It says Chevy but when you click on the link it shows Mopar instructions.

No all you want to do is centre the box so you can line up the pitman arm.

I'd attach the column and steer all the way to the left and then back the other way and count the turns. Then count back exactly half the amount and that will put it very close to centre enough for you to set the pitman arm in place.

I think the image they show is not correct, when you looks at the product details it says 3 mounting holes. But the cost of that box is very cheap so just wondering about it.

Has anyone on here tried the Masterpro power steer Box, 1969 Vailiant w 318 is what I'm thinking of putting it in. It's priced really right at 109 remanufactured and it shows it can replace the Mopar PS box. Shows it's slightly smaller in size but not as small as the borgenson box. I'm wondering...

The first time I used the MP kit which looks like that is in post 8, the second time I bought a relocation kit I bought it from RMS and it is thicker gauge steel.

I ran the 11/16th Proform on both small block cars. I have 11/16th's C body stuff on the big block car.

2 of the 4 of my moog tie rod ends had play in them after one year and little driving, 2 were still solid so I came to the conclusion that they have very poor spec's when assembling them. I switched to proform and bought the complete kit with adjusting sleeve's and tie rod ends. It has only been...

Yea the brackets that come with the kit aren't very good at all. My car is a 65 so I made brackets to work. These brackets won't work for you but I'm sure there is something you can make. The brackets that came with my kit look just like yours.

I just went to rock auto and it lists inner and outer are all different between 9 and 10.

Bearings are different between the 9 and 10 hubs. 9" is on the left but pic doesn't really show the difference. Wish I would of taken a better pic!

That kit from US car looks like a really solid kit but I have never used it myself. I have put in the Mopar perf kit and the one offered by RMS and the RMS kit is a better gauge steel than the Mopar kit is.

I thought up to 66 was a bolt holding the coupler to the steering shaft, but hey I a master at being wrong.. On the later A's a 1/4 punch is what I use to remove the coupler.

I have my springs moved into the frame on a 65Cuda, now I didn't drive it long before taking it apart for final body work and paint but the car never felt wobbly at all. Do you some pics of the rear suspension?

That's a good site for tools, I'm not sure that 1 59/84 is for the small ball joints though, I measured mine and it comes in at 1.798 with the mic and the one listed on tool topia is 1.922. But for the price their asking you can't go wrong, let us know how it fits.

The one I listed above is the small ball joint socket. I think I have 4 different ones on the old tool box.

I bought mine from American muscle, still shows they have them in stock. http://americanmuscle.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/74339/23456

Yes that is what I found out as well, although the kid had real problem looking stuff up. But they did have my exhaust gasket... Not the best parts guy in the world!

Thanks, with that stud info I'll contact Napa as I'm going there this afternoon for an exhaust gasket.

ValiantOne, would you mind posting the part number of the new studs you get, I'm in the same boat wanting to get new studs for my Yukon axels. Thanks

You'll need to find a V8 link from a 64 - 66 early A car. Once in a while they do come up for sale in the parts for sale section.

Not a hard job, but if you have to do an upper you need a special socket although I've seen people remove the upper arm and use a large adjustable wrench. This will help you http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/archive/index.php/t-291349.html

I'll be watching. I may want to do this swap one day. Another great thread younggun.

Welcome to FABO. You'll need a new short steering staft new headers and the ps box and pump, these headers work with ps in an A body. http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/BRB_Headers.html

Thanks roccodart, subscribed to your build.

HemiDenny is on FABO so you can just PM him. And welcome to FABO

I have dealt with him a few times and never had a problem. Always answered questions and really quick shipping, things must of gone down hill for him.