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No MDS, no cam phaser, no VVT, Manley double roller timing chain and sprockets installed 6 months ago.

I know this is a Gen3 Hemi, but it should be the same for all motors: Car was idling in the garage, suddenly died. Not electrical or fuel. Removed valve covers, everything is moving. Zero compression on all cylinders. Does this sound like chain or sprocket slipped? It's a ***** to take off...

Build was in 2013. I think there was a thread back then. No thread on the rebuild, but there will be something coming once I make it back to the track.

UPDATE: Good news! I am officially an idiot! Well, you knew that already. It turns out I had the in and out oil lines reversed on the remote oil filter. Switched them and I now have 75psi at idle (1400rpm) and 85psi at 3500 which is all the higher I took it so far. Why so high? It's a...

Yes, going to try the engine flush. It sat for 6 weeks then showed 55psi at idle so I'm thinking it's not that bad.

:drama::soapbox:

Engine is held in by a Motor plate. The motor plate would have to come out and the motor held up by an engine hoist. Biggest pain in the *** is getting the headers and torsion bars out.

It's a gen 3 hemi in an A body, I can't get the pan down off the K member more than an inch or so. The top end looks fine.

I agree that would be the best thing to do. Also the most time consuming. I'm trying to get back to the track as soon as I can. needless to say I'll never use this builder again (or the machine shop he used).

UPDATE: Car has been at the body shop and hasn't been started in 6 weeks. I started it up today and it showed 55psi oil pressure. WTF??

I had my race motor rebuilt. Apparently the machine shop the builder used did not boil the block. Now it loses oil pressure because the pickup screen keeps getting clogged with gunk. I backflushed the pickup tube and it restored normal oil pressure for a while, that's how I know. There are NO...

It's young and rebellious. It will grow out of it after it gets a little older....

If you are going with a big name to have a racing motor built and you've told them where you want to be with ET, car weight, converter, any power adders, etc. You are probably going to be left out of the loop until it is shipped to you. Big name race engine builders with a winning reputation...

Take a look at "Water Wetter" from Red Line. some say it reduces temp by as much as 15-20 degrees.

There's a guy named Stan who runs a 318 in a '70 Duster at my local track. NA, all motor. He runs about 6.35 in the 8th mile consistently which means he is putting over 600hp out according to several calculators I've used. I'm pretty sure he built it himself.