Am looking at water pumps

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Take a look at "Water Wetter" from Red Line. some say it reduces temp by as much as 15-20 degrees.
 
the Flo-kooler has an anti-cavitation plate that I bet the Edel doesnt. But IMHO, a stock A/C pump would do just fine. The 6 blade is for the 1.3 overdrive of the A/C lower pulley so it doesnt cavitate. you can pop rivet a cavitation plate onto any stamped impeller to increase its efficiency. You can also try a tablespoon of Calgon no foam dishwasher detergent in the radiator. Its a surficant the same as water wetter.
link in next thread.
 
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I have that pump on my motor.It has the anti-cav plate and l seem to remember it had 8 vanes.I say seem,cuz not sure; it was installed around 1999. For a good part of it's life it pushed straight water.
 
Just buy the Milodon water pump and be done with it.

Never tried the FlowKooler stuff so I can't say but I know the Mildon works.

And make sure your pump turns crank speed or a bit more.
 
Hmmmm..... I think would just go with a stock pump if running a thermostat or the Milodon at most; the flow restriction of the t'stat will be the main limiting factor in the coolant flow, not the pump. The high volume pump may put a bit more pressure out with the t'stat in place, which would help lower the localized boiling at head hot spots a bit. I can't say how much that is worth....

Edit to add: Here is some of the description from the Flowkooler site that confirms the higher block/head pressure. So this is like a HV oil pump: the benefit is from maintaining higher pressure (and thus flow) at the low RPM ranges. I can believe that as a real benefit.
"Flowkooler pumps increase the flow and create highway-speed flow rates. The pumps continue to deliver higher flow all along the rpm curve and when system throughput is maximized, FlowKooler pumps build block pressure. Increasing the block pressure by as much as 22% reduces hot spots on cylinder walls, prevents the formation of steam pockets in the engine block and prevents the cavitation of the impeller"

The anti-cavitation plate is pretty simple. It is a standard item on many or all /6 pumps; not sure why it was used so regularly in that application.
 
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I've ran the same Flowkooler pump on three engines and have no cooling issues. My current engine has a small crank pulley and it still cools fine.

Years ago when I was having overheating problems I tried Water Wetter and saw no tempature change.
 
just get the proper thermostat and a stock pump...if it doesn't cool
there are other issues.
 
AJ/FormS said:
As usual; what's your combo?, and what's the application? And where is "down here"?.
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Pistol shot from the Atlantic, pistol shot from north Florida.
(SouthernEastern most point in Georgia) Sea level, 90-100++ in the summer, rain every afternoon, humidity you can cut with knife.
360's, A833 O/D F body, A/C, 2.91; 360, A833, 73'plymouth b body
-with drives to Texas, street/highway driving.

Gotta put them together before the code enforcement clown gives me more grief
 
greymouser7 said:
Still trying to figure out what Pistons to run with j heads & .040 milled j heads
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Any flat top wil be lucky to hit 9:1 CR.

What I don't get, and can't grasp, is the fact you knickers are in a big time hurry, yet you want to blueprint something?

Just put a flat top in it and get going.

If someone said a WORD about what sat in my yard they would disappear.

We had lesbians move in to th neighborhood I grew up in. I'm a live and let live guy, do what you want. They didn't think I should start my race car in MY driveway, because THEY could hear it.

To this day, they fear me.

And I won. I was there long before them.ill go back long after they are gone.
 
Since you say you are gonna run AC, then I assume you are going to use this as a street cruiser. Keep the SCR at 9.5 or less. As before, you'll be in the upper 8's for SCR with the regular heads. Milling .040" will drop about 6-7 cc's from the chambers, and the SCR the will rise to about 9.3. So either way works.
 
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