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Pardon my ignorance, but I've never even heard of this. Is this for older rotors or brakes used in racing? Obviously it appears to be a safety measure to prevent the bolts from loosening, but is this a common problem? Would locktite be an option for preventing them from backing out?

Those don't look like they'd be to difficult to modify or even fabricate a pair of yourself. If you don't have the equipment to do it yourself, I'm sure a decent machine shop could do it for you for not much money.

Why is heat always a last resort? Does it damage or warp the knuckle? Having used the pickle fork and air chisel, he's probably already damaged the UBJ and will need to replace it. I'm not trying to negate your advice, just want to know for my own knowledge, thanks.

Do you plan on replacing the ball joint? If so, I'd heat the knuckle up nice and hot and whack the stud of the ball joint with a 2-3 pound sledge. But with that said, heat is my go to source for anything metal that's stuck, so long as it doesn't have anything that will burn nearby.

Soft or undersized tire? Bad shock? Camber? Bent control arm? Best thing to do would be to jack it up and check everything for play. Is it really bad, or just a little?

Torch, cut-off wheel, or tack a weld on the bolt are all good ways if you can get to it, but if they where able to put an impact on it, you should be able to get a torch to it.

Yep, a set of torches are extremely handy. A propane torch can help sometimes too, but it takes a lot longer and for $12 you can't go wrong buying one.

Don't they recommend replacing the pitman arm at the same time as the idler arm?