any ideas

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ef8340

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as some of you may know i got mike's 72 dart aka the zombie dart. today i started to do the wheel cylinders on it, well low and behold the 1st one i try and do cant even get the drum off. i have backed the adjusters all the way off and the shoes isnt getting hung up in the drums the problem is where the center part of the axel goes threw the drum it appears that someone beat the hell out of it causeing it to slightly mushroom the end so far ive tried prying on the drum all 4 corners while hitting it with a hammer hopeing the vibrations would get it to budge but with no luck,i can see the drum flex but it doesnt do anything around the center hole of the drum. i might have even f'd up the backing plate. wishing i had a torch so that i could heat the drum up and maybe get it off that way but no luck there im affraid to tackle the front right now until i get a cooler head and some different ideas from you guys
thanks
 
Yep, a set of torches are extremely handy.

A propane torch can help sometimes too, but it takes a lot longer and for $12 you can't go wrong buying one.
 
You have any handheld grinders?

Might try pulling the axle with the drum on

I'm guessing if it were I, the drum would be ruined
 
If you are talking about the front brake drums they may be original and made with the hubs pull the center caps and remove the wheel bearing nut then try to remove them.

Brian
 
First you need to file down the mushroom on the end of the axle pilot. Once you have the sides parallel again, then you can remove the drum.

You don't need anything more powerful than a propane torch. The brake drum is very thin at the hub, and easy to heat. Heat the area between the studs & the center. Use a circular motion with the flame around the axle pilot, keeping the flame on the drum between the inside of the studs & the outside of the axle pilot.

As the center of the drum heats up it will expand & let go of the pilot. It may make a loud "pop" as it does. Set the torch down and grab the drum @ 9 & 3 - then pull it straight off.

Hammers are for bodywork. Beating on machined parts rarely fixes them.

B.
 
thanks for the tips guys the more i think about it the more im leaning towards going BBP i think these rear drums were the icing on the cake i can get a whole set up for 300 bucks even though the rear end is a small 7 1/4 im not planning on doing alot of hole shots with it just a driver point a to point b type of thing as for the front part of the brakes i know i need the spindles but do i need the upper or lower control arms and do i need the tie rods aswell? also will i need the driveshaft both cars have the 7 1/4 rears with 904 trans mine is a v-8 the other is a slant
thanks
Terry
 
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