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The last set I sold I got 150 USD and it cost about that for shipping.

I discovered this 5 years ago. The one on my sons 1st car was too rusty for me to reuse when replacing all the lines. It gave me nothing but trouble for a year including leaking out the button and then not leaking after a bleed till a few months of use then leaking again. I ended up going to a...

When I swapped my car to 8 3/4 I reused the same cylinders from the 7 1/4 without any trouble from fitment or function. My car had the 10 inch brakes already from factory.

It sounds like you may have 1/2 studs on the front and 7/16 on the rear.

No not a Formula S but has everything besides the tach. Someone must have bought it to go fast and didnt care if he stopped. lol

Wrong. I have an early 65 Barracuda that came with 9 inch brakes, 273 4bbl and a 4 speed with sway bar. I also have the build sheet for the car that shows 9 inch brakes.

As long as you have the hubs for them I would run them. I have a couple sets saved to put on my cars.

Yes

It could be as I have always lived and worked near Detroit.

Yea around here the ones on the frame ie: G body and other ones beside the Novas were factory cast iron as I prepped and undercoated them new and looked at them right off the factory trucks.

No the factory G body are cast iron. Trust me I have lived GM all of my life before coming over to Mopar because dad was Mopar. The replacement that is sold for them is Brass. I worked at the dealer when they were new also.

It might have been a bad one. I was just sharing my story to help people decide. The original one that I took off the car was cast and the one I picked up at the junkyard from the same G body Monte is cast. So that is one vote for ok and 1 vote for defect.

Just a fair warning. I bought one of those for my sons 85 Monte Carlo and after 6 months of nothing but trouble and leaks from time to time I took the thing off and put a used factory one on from the junkyard. We have had 0 trouble for the last 6 months. I only bought the brass one because I was...

All replacement drums come off the hub and are held on by the rim. You will not have an issue.

I only use it where it was factory on the GM vehicles. Mopars were 3/16 factory and I prefer not to change the factory specs when it comes to brakes.

1/4 inch is what GM cars and trucks used to the rear brakes so no it is not too big for brake lines.

I have used it. It bends easy without kinking. It is sometimes difficult to make a good double flare with.

I found it very easy to work with but I have had trouble at times with a flare or 2 because it is softer than steel.

That looks correct

4 pistons, original and stop better. The reason you hear of the pistons sticking is the same reason they do it in a Corvette people just let them sit and you should go out once a month and pump the pedal a few times. I had my Vette 20 years and never had caliper trouble. I do have the Kelsey...

Yup bleeder has to be up to get all the air our. I feel calipers should be replaced in a pair to prevent uneven wear or pulling.

That is the one I was thinking of.

I dont remember the manufacturer of the kit but it looked like GM X body calipers and I thought I read Toyota rotors with their bracket.

If original you need to cut the swag off to remove the drum without damage to the hub. When the factory put the drums on they swagged the drum down with the studs.

Yes just keep your floor jack under the lower control arm.

Outer

It looks like your vent is too far forward. I would put a bolt in it cut off and weld it then drill a new one and tap it so those lines work correct.

52.625

Is your axle an original A body or was it a narrowed axle and the hole is further forward for that reason? If you have 5 x 4.5 pattern that may be the thing that has happened.

Looks like the park cable is out of adjustment. Holding on partially causing the brake to be held on partially. It will react the way you describe.