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If you don't find one close by I have one from a 68 Barracuda that you can have for the cost of shipping from Mass.

I harvested mine from the local bone yard. They didn't even charge me for them. Also Hughes has some retainers that work with the magnum 8mm stem that will allow for a little more valve lift than the 2.2 retainers.

The long tail shaft in an A-body really is not a big deal. I have one in my 68 Barracuda. All you need is to shorten the drive shaft ( cost me $75 at the local drive shaft shop) and an adapter that bolts to the rear mount and positions the shifter to the stock A-body location (bigblockdart.com...

I am using non OD rods on my A833OD with no issues.

There was one in a van down at Middleboro Salvage, been about 6 months since have been there so I don't know if its still there. It's the long tail shaft but it will work in an A-body if you shorten the drive shaft and fabricate an adapter that bolts to the rear mount and positions the shifter...

FWIW, I have 15x8 with 4.5" of back spacing and the rim would touch the spring if it had 5" of backspacing. I could have gone with a bigger tire if I had less than 4.5". This is on a 68 Barracuda.

The local autoparts store sells a kit for one size insert that includes three or four of the inserts, the correct size drill, the tap and a simple insertion tool for about $15 per size.

I have one in my 68 Barracuda. Need to fabricate a mounting plate that attaches to the rear mount and positions the shifter forward to the A-body position and you will need to shorten the driveshaft about 3 1/2". The input bearing retainer on all of the ODs are larger than the non ODs so a bell...

I bought the motor mounts from either Advance or Autozone. I used a 318 spool mount on the drives side and a 1/2" spacer to make up the difference in the spacing of the ears on the block.

You can use LA valve covers too. I have had a set on my magnum heads for more that 45k miles with no leaking issues.

A-bodies with 8.25" rear ends came with 10" by 2.5" brakes not 11". The A-bodies with 8.75" rear ends came with 10" by 1.75" brakes. You can use 11" by 2.5" brakes from a B body on an 8.25 if you swap the backing plates along with the brake hardware and drums. You would need new axles with...

The puller looking ones can be purchased at Autozone or Advance for under $20.

You can buy those new from Brewers for about $30.

Fel-Pro sells a timing cover gasket set that comes with the cover gasket, water pump gasket, front oil pan seal, fuel pump gasket and crank seal, its number TCS6563-1. You can get them at Advance Auto for about $18.

The factory part has a reputation for leaking a new aftermarket part from Brewer's Perfromance is $19 and it is redesigned internally so it won't leak if the tranny is left in reverse.

A friend of mine with no internet accesss is looking for a right rear quarter or more specifically the wheel well opening for his 65 Barracuda. He has some damage that he would like to cut out and replace verse trying to fab a patch. If anyone has a complete quarter or an 11 to 4 section of a...

My take from the web site is they are $19.95 each. But I sent them a message to confirm. How much do you want for yours?

Just checked AMD's web page and yes they do have them. If no one here has any I will go to them. Thanks! :)

I am looking for the small U shaped bracket that goes between the bumpers and the body on the ends of the bumper where the wrap around. I need (3) but will take 1-4. Thanks!

I agree, if you have electronic igntion on your \6 you don't need anything but the v8 distributor, don't even need to swap the ecu module. If your car doesn't have electronic ignition the cheapest route is the junk yard. Any mid to late 70's car, van or truck will have the parts you need and...

Yes! The 7.25 has 2.5" axles so you need to elongate each of the holes 1/4" to the outside so the 3" u-bolt will fit.

The shock plates are only specific to the size of the axle tube so any axle with 3" tubes will use the same shock plate. Or, you can just elongate the holes on the 7.25" axle and use them. I have been using the shock plates that were on the car with the 7.25 for 50k miles now to clamp my 8.25...

The one I got from Brewers was metal.

A new reproduction one is as I recall around $40 from Brewers.

You do not need those special tools to do that work. To remove lower control arm bushings just drive the shaft out then use a chisel to split the shells and they will come right out. Press the new one and the shaft back in with a vice. The lower ball joint is easily seperated from the spindle...

In 72 the position of the mounting holes on the side of the bell housing for the z-bar ball stud moved slightly. When the ball stud bracket for the older position is bolted to the newer bell housing the z-bar sits at an angle up and towards the back of the car on the bell housing side. It works...

That is true but you can buy a $5 set of springs from MP that will make the OEM distributor have all the timing in around 2000-2500 rpm. The advantage of the MP distributor is you can dial in the amount of timing in the distributor to match the cam you are using.

There is a difference in the length between power & manual steering columns so you need to let folks know that too.

They are available through Jegs, Summit, Mancini, etc. FWIW, there is no performance advantage to the MP distributor. It just gives you the ability to adjust the mechanical and vacuum advance. This can be done to the OEM unit by welding or epoxing up the the slots.

You can get them at Autozone or Advance too.