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Probably need a new tranny guy if he doesn’t know of any good converters, but that’s a different conversation. These guys built great ones with warranty. Street Racer Series Torque Converter - 9.5" for 727 - TF8

I have almost the exact setup as you and have been very happy with the street version. Going on 6 years with no problems.

Sounds pretty much what Fisher said in the beginning of the thread... The guy is quoting you an off the self basic converter which based on how you say you're going to use the car is probably all you do need. Hell, you could probably just keep the stock one and be ok.. But... you did spend big...

I believe when I read the specs on the blue print engine that it’s very similar to my build. I run the converter and I’m very happy with it. Street Racer Series Torque Converter - 9.5" for 727 - TF8

What replacement cable did you use? If it is not the gray hurst cable the eyelet on shifter end is bigger and leave enough play that it won’t fully go into some gears. You can make a bushing to take out the slack and it will work perfectly.

I used a piece of this across the front on the radiator and mounted a B&M super cooler. Made it easy to place and left a decent space between the radiator and trans cooler for circulation.

Call them and see what they recommend. I have one in my car works great and they are very knowledgeable. They used to re-stall it for free one time if you were not happy with it as long as you didn't change your engine specs, so ask about it. Street Racer Series Torque Converter - 9.5" for 727 - TF8

I have a Cope reverse valve body in mine with a Hurst Pro-Matic 2 shifter. I don't mind the shifting at all, really not that big of deal to have to shift it. When I bought the car it had a forward VB and I liked not having to find and deal with transmission linkage. I did have one issue, you can...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTPNE2/?tag=joeychgo-20

CRT 727-904 Pro Street Automatic Shift Valve Body | Cope Racing | Cope Racing

Bummer.. Reverse servo broke or snap ring come out? When mine broke it smacked the pan and dented it..

Go with manual valve body Linkage problem solved...

Looks good. I did mine a few years ago. Very satisfying knowing you did it yourself and that it was done right. I assume you did or are going to air test it?

Good luck. I'm all about supporting guys on the forum for parts and stuff but you might find a local supplier if you get in a bind then you don't have to wait days or weeks for something to show up. I bought my valve body for Cope and am very happy with it and all my other parts based off...

I've gone through the same thing. Not sure what you're working on but on my 68 Dart 727 the 3 foot is too short. Bends too tight and the cable binds. I use the 4 foot and it fits way better than the 5 foot but there is still a spot that gets close to my header but a length of fuel line slipped...

FTI Performance Torque Converters - FTI Been very happy with mine.

Easy once I figured it out. Funny how that works... Got lucky and had a cable hanging on the wall and notice how much smaller the eye on it was. The one in the car measured 17/64 and the other one was 3/16. Just enough slop to not let it get all the way in gear. Doesn't seem like much but when I...

Yes no linkage needed. Will still drop the pan and change the fluid and filter.

Winner Winner!! Got under it and went through the shifter adjustment before I got too deep into it. Found the "throw" of the cable as erratic. Found in the shifter side of the cable the eye was too big so the first part shift was not moving the cable because of the slop in the eyelet. Made a...

It has 4.2 lever in it and has always been at 2 1/4 turns. I readjusted after it started acting up and it made no difference.

Of course I have no idea but it feels like the band isn't releasing since it will actually slows the car down at low speeds, but again, really have no idea. If I do the servo air test what am I looking for? If it is leaking won't the trans still have to come out to get the kick down lever of to...

This is the one I bought. You might need to scroll down to see the specs CRT 727-904 Pro Street Reverse Manual Valve Body | Cope Racing | Cope Racing

Yes, full manual reverse valve body.

With my luck it will probably leave me stranded.

I know it's hard to say but if it is going into 3rd is it safe to drive? My buddy has a shop but it's an hour away but would be nice to get on a lift rather than on my back on the garage floor.

No, not burnt, fluid smells good and is fresh. I'll drop the pan and see whats going on.

Well, I adjusted the band 2 1/4 turns and made sure the fluid level was good and it made no difference. Higher speeds it goes into 3 pretty firm for the most part and at cruise speeds it goes right in but could have several seconds of lag time before it engages. At very low speeds it has the...

Seems like no slippage. Didn't really try to see if it would go because didn't want to risk burning it up. It really seemed more like a down shift, slowed the car down and was very sluggish trying to accelerate but didn't try too hard to get going because of risk of damage. Would go back to...

Thanks for your input. I'll talk to these guys that "built" my valve body http://coperacingtrans.com/ (Pretty sure it's not a transgo kit) And maybe someone with "actual" experience with manual vb will chime in with some suggestions also. Just my 2 cents...

It is a professional built vb. There is way for it to shift automatically. No early shift unless I shift it.