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you know, i must have, but i couldnt tell you for sure i did i went back through the paperwork and i changed that master cylinder back in 2017 i remember bench bleeding it, and im sure i bled the lines, i just dont remember it after i adjusted the rear brakes yesterday i was able to slam on...

It was in there, but it had broken off As soon as I took the drum off (which was entirely too easy, huge clue right there) it simply fell on the ground I adjusted the shoes untill the drum started to catch on the way off and it feels way better I ran into an issue on the driver side, (one...

Go grab yourself a cookie

No, it's been a bit of an ongoing condition After dragging my feet for years I finally got my transmission rebuild this month and now I'm able to drive it...so it's something I want to address now Honestly not sure what happens when I stomp on it I will look into it and report back

When it doesn't go through the floor, it feels fine, solid Not sure, I changed the rear end ages ago, long before this pedal feel became an issue

Yes, I changed it out when I added the front disc's I will adjust and bleed the rears, and report back

The car is a 71 duster with a hodgepodge of brake parts on it, scarebird conversion up front, 68 dart 8 3/4 on the rear (with the associated brakes) and a newer master cylinder (I believe it's a double reservoir or whatever it's called) When I'm driving it, often times the first pump of the...

Come one man, small bolt "bell" styles Heavy duty wit the extra cooling fans Going rate? 37 cents per pound

i run a set of scarebird brakes on my 71 and love them (i will be doing lower ball joins some time this week, so i can snap some pics of the set up then, if you like) BUT that is my car and i have SBP all around with your car, if you are going through the hassle of swapping brakes (drums...

im running scarebirds on my 71 all off the shelf consumables (discs, pad, and even calipers) as long as you dont that some of it came from a chevy citation, some from a toyota of sorts and i believe the hoses were even off a cadillac or something back when i bought it, the "whole package"...

and never an issue? if i understand it correctly, that just means popping the bleeder and waiting for it to drip, tighten up and done, right?

she sure is she too young for school so me and her have the entire day together and she loves it i asked her if she wanted to stay in and watch some TV but she wanted to be out and wrench with me typical michigan girl too, its 30 degrees out there and shes wearing open toed shoes working on...

Got the calipers back on (with a little help) They gravity bled just fine, but just to be sure, im gonna have the boy pump em a few times when he comes home from school, and bleed em that way (I figured, at 8000#, it's probably better not to have any air left in em)

in case you guys are wondering, this is what needs to be replaced funny thing is, the sliders on that side are fine the ones on the drivers side are rusted solid

05 superduty 6.0 diesel Yeah, that's what I figured I'll pick both of em up tonite

i got to replace a caliper on the plow truck tomorrow, and im thinking of using this method, anyone ever try this? (on a side note, one side needs a new caliper, the other side needs a new bracket, and the price difference is $65.00, any reason not to put two new calipers on?)

gotta wonder why they didnt space the new studs evenly between the old ones, instead of cramming them in like that

i got this summit one JEGS 63000: Stage Control Solenoid Valve 2-Port Brass Valve | JEGS i got mine plumbed into the front brake lines and have a toggle on/off switch (the one you posted has a momentary switch, seems like a pain to me)

PA, jeggs and summit are both in Ohio, which isnt to far from Pittsburgh shoot, leave right now and you can pick one up before dinner check with them guys (and when i say "check" i mean "get on the phone, talk to a real person and see if they can get it to you")

if it were me, id take the MC in to a reputable parts store and ask them to see if you can match up their "universal brake lines" to the MC they have them in all sorts of pitch and size

when i swapped out the rear end in the duster i kept the stock line to the distribution block, and put new lines on from there to the brakes i just looked at what i needed, drove over to autozone and bought a few universal lines they came preflared and with the nipples allready installed...

mhhh cherries i picked my duster up just outside of traverse city about 5 years ago

So...your basically trying to reinvent the scarebird kit?

shoot, then im out of ideas

maybe pop the cap off, and have someone stand on the pedal, see what it does?

Any chance the level in the MC is too low, allowing air in the lines when you floor the pedal?

Scarebird should fit

you're welcome this stuff can be a little overwhelming but we got a great group of people here im sure just about every one of them will be happy to help you along, especially if you are willing to learn

no sir, they do NOT need to be pressed together the shiney bolt looking things (and im sorry if i sound condescending, i dont know how much you know, so im trying to make it as simple as possible) are called wheel studs and they need to be pressed into the hub, which they are are now, the drum...

does hub mean brake drum ? in that case, yeah, you got a drum that has been on this car for what, 20-30 years? makes sense it was tight but, it should not be, so once you put it back together it is loose like it should be i wouldnt worry about