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IHRA and outlaw tracks are more fun.

Big surprise - I run a 4 speed. It's a 340 street car, but it runs DOT slicks and has been down the track quite a bit. With a stick, something has to give - the clutch or the tires. If neither one gives, the car will bog off the line or you'll break something. The big boys use a slipper clutch...

Nice!

Good price, and good enough for now.

If you're looking at 10's or 9's, you need a Snell SA rated helmet. DO NOT buy a Snell M rated helmet. From www.helmetcity.com : I have an Impact helmet and I like it. I bought it at a local place so I could try it on. I have this one...

Dude! This is Mark aka "hung over guy". Nice meeting you and good luck.

Well??? My guess would be 13.1 at 110 for your first outing. 12.7 with some practice.

Nice!

Congrats.

Wow, I can't believe that piece passed out the exhaust, even if it got hammered into a couple smaller pieces. I guess you were lucky, considering...

True. I have to watch my terminology!

Tell them it's the first time out and they'll let you run. Make a run faster than 11.5 and you're done. If you think it might turn a best of low 11's, you'll probably have to make a number of runs to get there. If you actually DO run low 11's, you ought to put a cage in it anyway. If you...

Did you buy race axles or street axles? They through harden the race axles, but do not recommend them for street-driven cars. Street axles are case hardened.

That looks really good with the shorter scoop. My favorite though, is the one Wylde1 posted. Lots of guys run the cowl hood, and I'm sure it creates less drag. Plus, it gives you a TON of clearance. It's just not my thing. I assume you're going with a lift-off hood. It's going to need...

That's gotta make you smile.

I don't have enough feet for that! :)

That's pretty light. How did you get there?

Hold the pedal down hard, press the switch and hold it down. Release the brake pedal. As long as you hold the button in, the front brakes will be locked. Mine holds so well, I did a small burnout in the garage. Nose in.

Hahahaha - now you start chasing better ET's, and THAT is fun! Forget the reaction time, as JoeDust said, it doesn't affect your ET. You can work on that later. There's a lot of room for improvement in that 60' time. Which is actually good news. The 60' time has a huge impact on your ET. Yes...

I'm still figuring out how to launch, so I can't be much help. I run a Centerforce Dual Friction. Good on the street, iffy with drag radials at the strip. It might get swapped out for a McLeod. I picked up a used Lakewood bell housing and block plate at a swap meet for $200. Peace of mind.

Do you have an inferiority complex? Do your own thing and don't worry about it. That six is running hard, I like it.

Cool site, thanks.

Thanks for the tip on the tires - I'll look into those. Front end rise should be easy to accomplish. I have RMS strut rods and UCA's with heim ends. The two things holding me back are the NAPA shocks and the anti-sway bar. Hopefully we'll take some video next time out.

???

A just-rebuilt sure grip. Clutch style, in a 742 case.

I may be able to borrow a pair and try them out.

16 psi cold.

Racer Dudes, Last year I started "racing" my Duster. Just going to test-and-tune nights for fun with the guys. Setup: 340 - dynoed at 458HP 4 speed Centerforce Dual Friction Line lock 002/003 SS springs No pinion snubber NAPA shocks on front Monroe shocks on rear (from Mancini for...

Good plan! As for timing and vacuum, my 340 only has about 5" of vacuum at idle (800 RPM). I don't think it would be good for an auto trans car, but ok with a manual. I run 38 degrees advance with aluminum heads and pump gas. The car was run on the dyno and power fell off with 36 degrees...

I busted a 7-1/4" in a slant six Volare. There was a hole where something exited the rear cover. I went to the work to replace the rear axle only to find out that the trans was now junk. It would be ok in first, then shift to second and make some nasty noises and shake the whole car...