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Thanks for the replies... I was just curious because I used the 273 balancer so the timing marks would be correct.. But the engine seems to have a vibration at higher rpms..

Would a 66 273 engine use the same harmonic balancer as a 69 318?

So is there a procedure to follow to set the preload on hydraulic lifters when using the 273 rockers and pushrods and shafts? I have the complete rocker arm assemblies and cupped pushrods..

OH yeah... I knew that at one time... How easily time erases my mind... :oops:

How else does it get oil? I am confused..I am re using the rocker arms and pushrods that were in the motor when i rebuilt it.. I ran the motor without valve covers and it looked like oil is coming out of the rocker arms where the pushrods are..Isn't that normal for an LA small block?

not a magnum..72 block 318... can i just swap the rocker arm assembly or do I need the 273 push rods as well? How do you preload a hydraulic lifter/rocker arm assembly?

I guess I didnt know that hydraulic lifters need a preload set ever..That was the whole point of being able to "pump up" to meet the push rods at whatever temp the motor is running. I mean all you do is bolt the rocker shaft down...right?

What would I need to do to use the 273 rocker arm set up? I do have a couple sets here..Instead of short pushrods..

Well i took off a valve cover and ran the motor till hot..The thing sounded like all the lifters were ticking a little, but when at the high rpm...4500..I start hearing 1 loud tick above all others.. Plenty of oil coming out of the pushrods so I assume it is going through the lifters properly..I...

Yes...I've been running the car for over a year and this problem just developed within the last 4 times out...last month or so.. Guess it's time to puill valve covers...

It only seems to do it on the passenger side front corner of the motor.. #2 or #4 not sure..

My freshly rebuilt 318 started a lifter tick at hihgway speeds that goes away when at city street cruising speed. It takes about 30 to 40 seconds for the ticking to subside after the rpms drop.. I checked oil pressure yesterday and was reading about 25 at idle and 35-40 peak when at high rpm...

The 302 heads are good, but watch for the high spot that hits the driver side exhaust manifold near the #7 cylinder. I broke 2 stock early A exhaust manifolds not realizing the heads have a high spot that needed to be carefully ground down in order for the manifold to fit properly. I have the...

Are the pick up coils for electronic ignition pretty much the same. I don't know what this distributor originally came out of. Does it matter or can I just tell them I need a pick up coil for a mopar electronic distributor? It sounds a lot cheaper than getting a new drive gear and a new...

Can it be changed with the intake in place or do I need to take it off?

I was hoping someone had some ideas on this...Every one of the small blocks has this part. Does anyone ever change it? Is it something that is always changed during a rebuild? Do they go bad? I dont have a roller motor. Standard pump up lifters and rockers.

So my question is this...How often should the oil pump drive gear be replaced? I have just built my 318 and other than the distributor and the oil pump gear, everything is new... I am experiencing a miss situation when I keep the car at a constant speed or take my foot off the...

I am working on getting a mini starter for it. The current starter is a many years old rebuilt that was in the car when I bought it. I figure it is just losing it's power, especially running a higher compression that stock with the new motor. This is all in an attempt to keep the car from...

So I set the initial timing @ 14 btdc and the total with the vac adv on the manifold side looks to be about 30 or so btdc. Cars seems to run a lot better, but when it is hot, hard to turn over. Maybe one of those hi torque mini starters would be my next move.

All I know about the original vacuum source is from our formula s 273. It has the stock carb and manifold on it.There is only 1 vac fitting on the carb and it has a lot of suction when the engine is at idle. It is only running a single point dist, my dual point dies when I apply any advance...

I know it came stock with a manifold vacuum source, But I wasn't sure with the edelbrock set up about which port to use. I think I will try the manifold port tonight. Set the timing to 14 btdc with vac disconnected. Then hook up vac.It will probably increase the rpms a bunch when I hook the vac...

So your saying that when you set your timing, you set it @ 34 degrees btdc and just leave it like that?

I am running a 318 bored 40 over with kb pistons, comp 286 cam, 302 heads with an edlebrock carb and intake. I also have electronic ignition. My question is: Should I run the vacuum advance off of the timed port on the carb or the full manifold port off the carb. I have a choice. Right now I am...

I know you have a 68 motor, but what is it in? The newer cars have a different timing chain cover with the timing marks on the d side, where as the older cars have the timing marks on a bracket that bolts to the timing cover and show on the passenger side of the motor. Could that be your issue?

Well, everything is in the car finally...I had to take a grinder to the head where the d.side exhaust manifold goes down because the early a manifold sort of "hugs" the block there and it was hitting some of the casting flash and the area where the smog"holes" are on the head. I didn't realize...

ok..Thats what I thought...Run it with the big wire..You have made my decision more reassuring. That small red wire in question does terminate at the starter relay on the big terminal with 2 other wires. I guess a lot of things get power from that feed off the battery. Thats what i am gonna do...

well that small red wire was hooked up to one of the 2 terminals on the starter as well as the small brown and the big red wire. I know where those two go, just not the small red one. I think it goes with the big red wire that runs from the battery to the starter because the FSM says that the...

Ok...It seems I've lost a connector off of one of the cables that connect to the starter. Does the small red one connect with the brown wire at the starter or does the small red one connect with the big red wire at the starter. My FSM shows the small red wire as a black wire from the starter...

I was finally able to get the pilot bearing turned down to fit my smaller register crank shaft and put the motor in last night...2 more nights after work hooking it all up, and the car should be running!!!!!! Sorry for the lousy cell phone image.

I checked with napa and the smaller bushing is no longer available... Just my luck