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Yeah, on 40-50 year old vehicles, there is no such thing. Fully restored with a new harness is about as close to nominal as you can get if you're measuring draw at the battery on a headlight system.

THIS, and verify that the battery is good, and doesn't have some weird shorted cell or something.

The factory used non adhesive black vinyl tape. Regular electrical tape makes me want to murder someone

Yeah this is my preferred method. Then the diagram is already made for you. In either case, draw/print a diagram, add any changes you make to it, then get it laminated and keep it in your glovebox or trunk. You'll be shocked how quickly you forget where that red wire you added went, and the...

These also can work well, but please be aware that Chinese version of these (and Chinese fuses) have caused many fires and circuit damages. Harbor Freight even had a recall on fuses. SAFETY RECALL

If it's not a resto, consider splicing in a modern fusebox from a later-model car like a Neon or something. This will give you the blade fuses and some relays to work with.

Pretty much this. Unless it's a resto, it's this.

I just connected the wires together under the hood, taped it up, and called it a day. It bugged me that the gauge didn't work, until I realized that the only reason I was looking at it at all was because it didn't work. I have AAA if something goes down, and 99% of the time, I get a warning via...

"Before you fix it, make it right" I'll never remember which Harley instructor told us that, but I've never forgotten it.

Ditto start with battery condition, connection, and grounds.

It needs to be load tested. A battery with a shorted cell can still read 12.8 volts, but drops to near zero when load is applied. Sounds weird, but I've seen it myself more than once. Some will have enough juice for lights, but a starter load....nada

Sigh....Broken Drum time. the first step when troubleshooting any electrical problem is verifying that the battery is full charged, load tested, and that the connections are in good condition. Beat while typing.

I know. I feel that it is crucial to my integrity to admit when I'm wrong.

Check the electromechanical voltage regulator for the instruments, it's probably signed off this mortal coil. Solid state replacements are available, and work MUCH better. You know what? Ignore this post. I'm tarded and missed that it was the lights gone dead, not the instruments. What MVH said.

It's backup lights for a manual trans. The Neutral Safety Switch on manny tranny cars was the clutch safety switch.

Then that pump is drawing power through what is likely some old-as-dirt wiring. I'm telling you....relay, and fresh wiring for that extra current. It's probably not great to pull that kind of load through a system that is, stock, marginal at best.

Relay all the things, all the time.

Step one: Check the fuses. Step two: Check the bulbs.

Get a factory replacement harness. Pull the speedo unit and glovebox liner, and get to it. Get some die-electric grease and grease every connector. It isn't that bad and is actually a relaxing job. Pulling the front seat is optional.

That's brilliant. When my Neon kept getting stolen, I looked into using a crank position sensor from a Neon which is a latching sensor. Mount it in the dash and pass a magnet over it to turn on, pass again to torn off. I never got around to actually doing it though. I just started pulling a...

I did all that, turned out a brush shat in the alternator. I fixed the brush but left the regulator on the firewall as a redundancy. Glad you got it going.

Yeah those Chilton's are barely worth using to start a bonfire. I can't recall seeing any digital versions of the FSM's for those trucks but if you do find a source, please share!

I'll wager that the headlights and/or dash lights have been run off the same circuit as the starter so it's overloaded them when they're on. Think parallel circuits. I'd run the headlights off a separate relay and see if that fixes that problem and if not, it's still a worthy upgrade in it's...

I'm going to say that if you did wash that in the dishwasher, that's probably a bad thing long term. That moisture wicks into every cracked insulator and up inside every wire termination point and will likely lead to long term corrosion issues.... Once that moisture gets in there, it AIN'T...

Wait.... You ran the HARNESS in the dishwasher?

Dude, if my car shat a starter out on to the floor, I'd put down a blanket or something so it doesn't break the nose off, and then I'd start selling those starters. Technically speaking, birthing a starter here qualifies it as Made in USA. Today is a gift. Make the most of it.

You can get a little spade adapter that has a second spade on it, and run the extra wire from it. My '72 has two horns and when the Grant GT steering wheel horn button is lightly pushed, it'll honk the low note only. It's weird.

If this is your issue, run magneto's and spare the charging current for everything else. That said, if this is your issue, you have another issue that you need to diagnose and fix. There's no reason for dual alt's on a race car. You're not running that much crap when you're racing. The onboard...

So, it is fused.