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I use the quick fuel 4 window. They hold up well in today's pump gas and are a quality part.

This has worked for me and when they say you have 12 minutes to work it they mean it. It's like a thick paste when mixed. All Craft 12-Minute Epoxy Cement

Read this article. A lot of good info if you've never setup a Dana.

i would put a set of headers on first. no sense having a big throat with a little a$$.

Next up, the rebirth of the K car.

.014-.016 is what I would set them at.

Lash is way to tight. Valves are not seating all the way when motor comes up to temp.

I've run a lockup 999 from a 84 diplomat behind my 340 for years. Stock internals, Trans Star rebuild kit, TF2 shift kit, lockup circuit plugged, A&A HD front band, TA 10" 3400 tight converter. The OEM front drum has 5 clutches and you can fit 6 thin ones if you wanted to. The lockup input shaft...

Run at the track weekly.

Book doesn't say. I would assume 2.125 since no mention of 2.1 size in the book. I don't believe the chevy rod journal size was in common use back then. These cranks were sold for circle track guys to run 355 cu in motors depending on bore size of the block.

9th edition mopar engine book surfaced hardened forged 1053 steel small block, radiused fillets main and rods, eight bolt flange, 3.51 stroke

I run my dash cam for the police and lawyer if ever needed.

Waiting hours at each track to maybe get 2 passes does not work for me. The guy in the Dakota Pickup hot lapped several times towards the end of the day at SGMP to have some fun.

This is how I setup my 67 dart. Modified a 17" cake pan, thick foam from home depot glued on with 3M door seal adhesive, driver side engine chain with slight slack. After cutting lower bracing installed 10/32 screws to stiffen the edges of the cutout.

DP if you race a lot. The 4 corner idle adjustment and secondary nozzle are the benefits to swapping.

When the 340 hit production it was underated for HP and cubes were kept down to compete in NHRA. A young kid paid by the HP rating and cu in when the insurance companies got their money. I never could afford to insure a big block when I was young. All the small blocks are good motors.

You are correct. The only thing I will add is as you release the line lock and the car begins to roll out you need to slowly lift off the throttle.

yes. You'll need a drop base around 1.5 to 2". I cut my hood for the scoop to actually work.

There's a reason as a driver you sign the release paperwork at tech. Take your car to the track and run the $$$hit out of it.

I see the new cars as the future of racing. Scat pack is the 340 Abody, Hellcat is the Big block GTX. In Orlando the street cars running TNT pay the bills. I see nothing wrong with someone buying a new car and running it hard at the track. Most here did exactly that 50 years ago.

The fastest car does not always win, the quickest does. I have no problem running the new stuff. The supercharged/turbo stuff is a different game 50/50 if they can get their car to hook. The 5.0 are the faster of the big 3 IMO.

I like running them if they're on sticky tires and they can drive.

If it looks like a moly paste I would. Crane Super Moly Assembly Lube 99004-1

If you had a V8 post car equipped the same as a HT the post would weigh more, taller glass, metal frames on the door glass, taller roof A and C pillars. They are stiffer bodies.

Here's mine with a big post behind it.

Agree. Weak spot on a 904/A500 is the small diameter converter hub. Make sure it did not crack and take the pump drive ears with it.

Seatsavers.com | - Truck Seat Covers Custom Canvas & Waterproof I have the Tru Fit and when they get dirty you machine wash and air dry. If you can't figure out the options on the web site call them.

A solid mount on anything requires torque checks every so often. A longer pin will help if it does loosen.

On your dish piston measure the outer ring portion (tallest portion) and select head gasket based on piston to head clearance. .040 is what I use.