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Sorry , my mistake late atr night. Anyway, you really need to look at it. We'll help you get it back together.

Hey!, This is the same guy as the Broken bleeder....

Did you do that^^^^^ or did you find out on the trip and your not back yet?

Seriously, look at it...it's in the numbers 1/8= .125...how many times does .008 Guzinta .125?

and.... did you get install it,. and test drive it yet? a fellow your age should be finished by now ..and on the road......

I did the Scarebird 10"drum to disc(cavalier disc and rotor/Cadillac hose?) in 2007. It turned an ill stopping, pulling, weaving, scarey front brake system into a dependable straight line stopping car. I kept the master cylinder with no change, just had to press a little harder. I had a machine...

what was the solution? ..for future reference

locate a 1/4 inch boxend wrench and take it with you on your next drive, shouldn't take long until this event happens again..when it does, stop the car (in a safe place) go out and open the bleed vlave on the back of the front brakes. tell us what happens.

change the front rubber lines....they are collapsing inside and holding pressure

bearing races and seals will stay the same, check with NAPA store. ..no hub/drum assembly is available. best bet may be to take your drum/hub and one wheel to a machine shop and have them do your welding of the new studs. ..they must bet installed straight!!....(some folks can't do this at...

go to the back side(inside) and cut off the stud..knock it out from the inside towards the outside. that will keep the hole the correct size for the replacement stud. if you knock/press from the outside towards the inside, the swedge will enlarge the hole so that nothing will fit tightly...

i put a Scarebird 10" conversion (celibrity caliper and rotors with cadilac hoses) on the 68 car back in 2007. the car stops.......straight.... got all the parts new from the local NAPA store...at first i felt bad about putting GM parts on my Mopar but it stopped better than ever, that made me...

I used Scarebird's 10" conversion kit on my 68 car. Celibrity calipers and rotors, with the rotor drilled to the 4 inch small mopar pattern, Cadallic brake hoses....some minor machining to the hub so the rotor would fit.. we cut the studs off flush and knocked them out...(their "swedged")...

i also did the front 10" conversion and bought all the other parts at the local NAPA store. i had a machine shop do my rotor drilling and hub fitment. i run 14' rallye's.. stops straight and way better than the drum stuff.

i did the scarebird conversion on my 68 car and only did the correct (disc) master cylinder. had a valve but never used it. remember, bleeder valve@top. there are some parts you take to your machine shop guy. if your studs are swedged on, cut the lip off the back aand knock it thru the hub...

unreformed66, i had a similar problem with the swedge issue but we cut them off on the back side and knocked them thru the front..the new oversize Dorman's pressed right in.. my machine shop turned the spindle before fitting the adapter ring and it just fits snug( a couple of .001's) at...

or you could try Scarebird http://www.scarebird.com/ they are the only ones i know that do anything with a 9 inch mopar...it is an adapter plate the allows you to use 1990 celibrity calipers and rotors i do not know how good this system is, however, i am in the process of trying the 10...