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I see a shop vac....??? Maybe HemiSDart will chime in and describe the charger that was being used. I assumed he was using the charger made for his drill's Li batteries....

I've had one serious lead-acid battery fire too. But I think what is bothering me here is that the mfr/seller of the particular battery in question does not have any info on their site on precautions for these. I suspect that most folks would not know to not jump start them.... which the mfr...

Yes, that is what bugs me here.... these auto and motorcycle batteries with NO charge/discharge management system look like a really bad day waiting to happen if they are handled like wet lead-acid and AGM batteries.

Have been reading about a problem had with one of these new Li Ion car batteries over on a another forum. One caught on fire in a car, and if you read down in this thread, you see the OP conversed with the mfr, and was told that it was probably (and in general can be) caused by jump starting...

Go the electrical section; quicker response on this matter there. - Your '64 would have both wires direct to the coil +, one direct from the ignition switch during START, and then one that feeds power to the coil + through the ballast for RUN. - What you need for the for the later system is...

That would be correct. The original wire to the engine temp sensor would be purple.

You can find NOS regulators for around $40-50. There were a couple of vendors selling them at the Nationals last year.

A lot of crimp success or problems lies in the crimp tool and its use. For example, the crimp jaws on the common wire strippers does a relatively poor job. Also, the split in the crimp sleeve should be oriented into the hollow 'U' of a good crimper. Without knowing the way the crimping was done...

I'm drawing a blank.... Jiggling the selector lever would make sense to get the neutral safety switch in the trans into the right position, but I can't imagine what that is doing in the dash. That wire only goes directly to ground the coil in the starter relay on the firewall, unless someone...

Hopefully .022 .... at .220 , they would never close LOL

Ahah, all the work for nothing.....doh.

1st, put your your ohmmeter leads together and measure the resistance of the leads only. Do this a few times and get an average number; lead resistance is usually well under 1 ohm. Then disconnect 1 end of the ballast from the harness and measure resistance across the ballast terminals. Then...

The OP wrote this; the bold letters are his measurements, and the italics are 67Dart273's: Bump the engine until the points are visibly open, and re-check. You should have "battery" at BOTH coil NEG and at coil POS here im getting coil + 10.4 and coil -- is 1.30. Battery at 12.30 If you have...

Check the bulkhead side of the fusible link and the bulkhead connector to which it leads. Check that on both sides of the bulkhead. If it appears at the inside of that bulkhead connection, but not at the red wire into the ignition switch, or at the fuse block, or at the B1 lead on the headlight...

I just got them at the Ford dealer and pad the $$. I did not know that O'Reilly has them. Good to know that that Dodge Cummins' use them too..... the ones in the Dodge CTD are the originals and are 9 years old. They started getting a tad weaker last winter if it sat for a week in the cold. I'll...

Is this a standard Mopar system alternator and regulator? If not, know that some systems look for a bit of 'juice' out of the alternator before starting the regulator. Revving the alternator does this.

Interesting..... I replaced my 2001 F530 diesel's original M'craft batteries... that lasted 11 years..... with some more. The truck sits a lot but the batteries still charge and start that big diesel well. I'm sold.

Here is a tech article from Optima aobut recovering overly discharge Optima batteries. Read down in the lower half of the page. Support - Battery Care - Tech Tip Articles As for tenders, Optima indicates that having too high a tender output voltage is a problem.

Do some checks at fast idle (around 1500 RPM). Things are not spec'd at curb idle for this; all the numbers are for some moderate RPM's.

If this is 12v key in RUN, and with the engine running at fast idle RPM's, then that is low. You can have voltage drops in the ignition switch and its connection(s) as well as the bulkhead connections. So a complete trace of voltages are in order, from the battery + to the starter relay big lug...

Is this a rapid flickering of the headlights, or do they just dim as the RPM's drop? Just pull the alternator belt off and start the car and you'll know right away if it is the alternator bearings (or could be the water pump too). Also, hold the tip of a long screwdriver straight against the...

It is the 15.6 alternator output, minus any voltage drops in the wiring back to the battery +, and also voltage drops in the ground circuit, which would be from the alternator case, through the engine, and then the ground lead from the front of the block to the battery -. How long has the...

No that is not good or normal..... This does tno sounds like nomral wiring; it this runnign from the alternator main output direct to the battery or what? We need detailed info. 2 ballasts says something is at least odd and possibly wrong: what coil are you using? We need brand and exact model...

As above, no difference.

Sounds like you have 3 like the MSD ballasts and 1 like the BWD19. I personally would not be running the MSD Blaster 2 on long road trips unless I had spare ballast and coil and ignition box to carry. The coil resistance + ballast is a mite low and will be heating things up; OK for the drag...

Because the ignition system is now pulsing the current rather than drawing continuous current, so the average current and voltage drops are now lower. Makes good sense....

Well, there ya go. Sounds like it was in the trigger wire connections from the distributor, since everything else checks out OK.Those issues are the hardest to find. Congrats! BTW, to add to the notes on the voltage drops Karl reported....you had 7 volts across the ballast and 3 across the...

The voltages look good. The voltage at the coil end of the ballast will vary. If this is a points distributor as you noted, then check the points gap when it is most open. It should be around .017-.018"; you have to measure with a feeler gage. Too small a points gap when open will cause poor...

Karl: 1) Do you have a picture of the ballast or a PN? 2) One thing to note: there is a missing wire in your original schematic back early in the thread; it shows in the schematic that Bad Sport posted in post #61 and is labeled 'IG2' at the ignition switch. It is a brown wire in the original...

Hmmm the output voltage is somewhat high but not like wide open high. And the voltage difference between the blue and green wire connections to the field is in the right range to indicate that the regulator is actually regulating around a set point. BTW did you measure these voltages at fast...