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Yup. Just likes it's typical for other filter brands to use Fram numbers. Sharing a part number for cataloging is nothing new. Usually the prefix numbering is different.

Okay... When I had my shop my customers didn't get a choice. They had Moog installed. In five years I warrantied out one Moog part and that was because my business partner installed it wrong. For the past year, I've been selling these parts, not installing them. I've yet to warranty out a...

But you keep coming back to "mom and dad said." I would think that the 94 votes and they technical explanations would trump some the "I've had good luck with 'em." Mom and dad had good luck with 'em. What's the mean? They didn't break? Hell, my father-in-law's had "good luck" with air shocks...

If you're going to check with a box store ask for their top alignment guy. Some of the shops I've worked for we shared alignment duty, but other shops we had the alignment tech, and that's all he did. Personally, that's the kind of shop I preferred, simply because it's that guy who knows the...

Wow, think this thread will get some opinion going. Personally, knowing that a 20 year old might drive it (would be like my wife driving, used to power disks all the way around) I think I'd look at what it would take to make the car stop better and drive better, if the slant is a good running...

Did you replace the strut mounts when you did the struts? In my experience using the old plates on Chrysler products was a reason for comeback. Man, I love loaded struts. Also, I've had this happen: my old IR 231 impact wouldn't tighten the nut down enough. Until I got my new impact I'd have...

I agree.

The XV level II suspension doesn't use the upper mounts, correct? Wouldn't the inner fender bracing give an upper support to the what the core support bracing is doing lower? Wouldn't therefore using the engine compartment braces be like tie-ing both sides together?

Or a Cherokee Sport.

Hey, Ross, what do you think. The guy over on dippy.org is thinking the inner fender braces aren't needed since the UCAs are "remote" on the F,M,Js, but I'm thinking the twist from engine torque would still be present if you're pulling hard out of a turn. Or am I over-thinking on the F's and M's?

Like I asked, which ones are we looking at? The first ones I saw were the E-body and A-body one advertised on top of the other.

I might be wrong, though. Take a look down the page and another is advertised as A,B, and E body bushings from Summit.

Never had mine out side by side to compare, but I'd almost guess it's the bushings. If I'm wrong, someone will correct me.

Which ones are you looking at? The link pulls up a page of 'em. If you're looking at the kits take a look at the E-body (B-body) ones just below the A-bods pictured. You'll notice the hanger bolts in different.

$12. Oops, sorry, you said besides 12 bucks....:D

Thanks for the link. I would expect that system would work better as a whole. The member over at dippy already has frame connectors in and the debate is whether or not he should think about the core support brace. Andrew has it right, though. The twist is going to occur throughout. By limiting...

This is actually the point I've been trying to make over on dippy.org. The guy who's arguing against it doesn't get this. Hence the reason I asked for vids and/or more evidence.

Got a link for this vid?

Gmachine, we're having this discussion over on dippy.org right now with one of the members wanting to do this on his 416 stroker Dip cop car. We have another member saying it's a waste of time because the K-frame is right there (which is even worse on the M-body, as the K-frame is isoluted away...

From your description they were probably "modified" by a front end shop who couldn't get the proper toe adjustment from the tie rods ends probably being too short on the threads. Can't adjust all the way? Heat and bend, that'll fix it.

I'm going to agree with the answers of the rear not being centered factory. The rears were offset. But one of the things you pointed out was the 8.75 came out of another A-bod. That doesn't necessarily equate direct bolt-in. The Duster here originally had a 7.25. We came across an 8.75 out of a...

Especially since most would low ball anyway and figure you shouldn't make a profit...LOL. Really, having a set available would be nice.

I guess the question to ask him would be if he needed just the shock mount. Since he says he needs it from the "end of the tranny tunnel" is he talking about the floorboard under the back seat to the trunk with all the reinforcements and mounts attached? Guess you need to make a phone call to...

Do you power the turret with the double "O" exhaust?

Wow, thanks for sharing that...*eagerly awaiting my wiper blade sharpeners*

the first picture is your sway bar end link. The second pic is not clear, so I'm not going to guess. The third pic is seal, perhaps the inner bearing seal on the spindle. The part you're looking for the name of is called a strut rod. As far as tightening everything when it's on the ground I like...

KYB is the only way I'll go on any of my cars or customers cars. Better quality, better road feel, and the best bang for the buck over Gabe's or Monroe's.

This question is always asked in reverse over at dippy.org about 8 3/4's going into F's, M's, and J's. The donor cars are listed as '68-'70 B-bodies, so quite the spread in backing plates between the A's and those listed.

Actually, what I was trying to point out was that for older Mopars a lot of vendors, who have been around for decades, haven't taken the Mopar crowd seriously and all the sudden have realized that market existed. For quite a while now you could open a Danchuck catalog and buy a complete frame...