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uhhhh Yep.. General consensus is that the hex is off by one notch.... please show pic of how you installed them.

If your going tubular but cant afford the k frame upgrade, get QA1 uppers/lowers to match, as well as adding their strut rods. If you add a sway bar either Hellwig or Hotchkis or Firm Feel will bolt right in. With the sway bar companies today, you do not need to worry about "welded" sway bar...

Great write up. I actually did the same write up about 5-7 years ago when Dave had just finished re-engineering the sway bars. My shop and a few others gave him feedback on how it all went together. I went from no sway bars on my 68 Cuda to just a front and then a front/rear setup. One of the...

Get Hellwig or Firm Feel.... and you DO NOT have to have lower control arms with the tabs for the aftermarket bars. They make them to work either way....

Why not use the Hellwig rear bar? Should be the same width 63-76. Their design beats Hotchkis....

K7103 for the bushings. Be careful how they get installed. Thin part of bushings faces to tire in front and to engine in rear. That will help.maximize caster. All the larger t bars are after market.

I agree, I have the 1.00" T bars, and it handles amazingly. I had original 340 bars(.870), and they sucked....I had the .890 bars, better, but still not enough. We all have our opinion on how a Mopar handles and how we like it. Really sit down and think how your going to drive it, and then...

Also look into Reilly Motorsports and their Alterktion setup. I hear Hemidenny on this forum makes a nice HDK k frame replacement too.

Good catch joe...Summit will price match too.

Hellwig front and rear sway bars are THE BEST aftermarket bars available. Just do a thread search. I helped Dave from Hellwig do prototype installs to help hom make sure his design fit as he planned. They are an absolute awesome upgrade. Doesnt matter if you have the sway bar tabs or not. For a...

Even though you say you want the car "higher" by about an inch, what exactly are you trying to achieve? How tall of a tire? What size? What we all need are pics of current height. How are you going to drive the car? I mean realistically.... Raising a car does nothing but worsen things. Lift...

You will lose all positive caster.

Did you get an alignment?

"We have a 1-1/4" tubular front bar we just released for early a-body applications. Its part number 55914. It features dedicated lh and rh laser cut and cnc formed brackets. With the addition of our 6907 adjustable rear sway bar it will transform the way your car handles. " 55914-TUBULAR...

Read his post for part #. All 63-76 a bodies have the same width rear and use the same rear bar. Shortly I will be doing a install and write up on this exact front bar, with pics. I for one really like the engineering aspect of Hellwig bars ALOT.

John, Hellwig shows a 09-10 bar # 7709..You may need to call if its for the right suspension...

The front eye bushings on the leaf springs are best replaced with poly. This is because they limit the deflection and control your thrust angle alot more. Hellwig hands down for front and rear bars....go read my threads on the install.

PST uses energy suspension and Addco bars......

Caster shouldn't make it pull, on flat or crowned roads. His difference isn't that much. I never fo above .5 neg camber for street use. If I install a-arms with delrin or del-alum bushings, I run about 1/16th to 1/32nd toe since they have hardly any deflection.

Your #'s came out good. He did good on factoring in right side caster for road crown. THe difference is between the 2 is right about where it should be. 4* pos caster is gonna feel great at high speeds....

FYI, Firm Feel makes UCA's for both large and small balljoints.

CHeck out all the brands......CAP is at the bottom of the list.....RMS stuff is one of the best out there.it Hit the nail on the head Megajoltman....lol Hotchkis is just overpriced. Even for Chevys.

Take your specs in to a guy that knows to look for those numbers, not just it "being in the green". Mopardude, your asking for a "performance alignment". I wonder if the mobile guy does the 4 wheel alignment so you can make sure that the front/rear are aligned correctly. My guys use the...

I believe that Hotchkis copied Hellwig..... If you folks read my earlier threads you'll know which way I am leaning...;) HELLWIG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I personally like to use anti-seize on ALL threads during any assembly process. Good luck with the monkey wrench....it needs to go to 125 ft./lbs minimum....

If you're referring to Abodyjoe, he did his in his garage, it's on his website....I personally have installed Firm feel, Magnum Force, and Just suspension a arms and they went in pretty easy....did a few sets of each. Just a deadblow to get them into the slots for the UCA's.

Of all the comments out there, most I see are negative. I do believe that there are SOME god ones out there, but the bad far outway the good according to many threads about their products. What about the RR that had a conversation with a wall where the CAP a arms broke....NOT AT THE WELDS...

Call up Dantes parts on the east coast. They have that piece new. It is a plastic housing with a rubber center that snaps into the thin slots on the column jacket.

I am gathering that "duralast" is an autozone bushing. Are these poly or rubber that has ineer and outer shells?

my bad....