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Thinks it's even in the destructions for it.

Don't forget to cup the balls :rofl:

Got any pictures of your elbows under the inner fender?? Thanks

How has this stood the test of time? I'm curious. Thanks

Tech support is open on Saturdays until noon.

I don't feel comfortable running a 14g wire all the way back to my fuel tank and have it supply 20A. SS relays are not like simple bosch style relays.

I'm about to put a Walbro 450lph in-tank pump in, and was wondering if I could run/extend the fitech fuel pump control wire to a Solid State Relay in back and still use the fitech to control the PWM to the Walbro pump via the SS relay???

I read somewhere that there's an updated flash to the handheld that is desirable if you are going to control timing. Does anyone have that update?

Here's a video, pretty easy once you know what to do.

Quick question, what's the easiest way to lock out the centrifugal advance on that distributor??? TSP Mopar Pro Series Pro Billet Distributor JM7613BK | eBay

I'm just about to try my hand at letting the unit control timing. Would this be an ok distributor to get? TSP Mopar Pro Series Pro Billet Distributor JM7613BK | eBay Thanks

Just search on Facebook for fitech owners group.

I talked to Bryce, he seemed to think it was fuel pump related and had me reduce the fuel pump PWM from 75 down to 40.

Well they are closed on the weekend, but I will be contacting them first thing tomorrow.

I was lucky in that respect. I just happened to be checking things under the hood when it started smoking.

So this happened to me today. The burned to a crisp pin is the constant 12v. Not sure what caused this, but when smoke started coming out of it I kinda got worried. I ended up cutting the wire out of the plug and running it around it. Seems to work ok still. I wonder if there was just a bad...

My IAC's are right around 10 when warmed up. I've already adjusted them. One of my theories is that as all the gas boils off through the vent tube, an air pocket gets created in the high side fuel pump, then when I turn on the key, it fills the FCC can, then starts and there's an air pocket...

I also experience starting and dying after a second only when it's really hot. If I'm driving it, and then pull into a store for a minute. And then get back in it, it will start and then die. But if it's cold, it will start and run no problems. I was thinking it might be heat related, and...

I'm interested in this as well. I will post up my information shortly.

Well, as I learned from Sesame Street decades ago, one of these things is not like the other. Mine looks mangled.

I don't know what happened to it, can someone post up a picture of what it's supposed to look like?

Here's another pic.

Anyone know what this little black plastic probe thing is for? Mine looks like it's melted.

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I don't seem to have any vacuum on the "ported" vacuum port while running down the road. On tip in from the throttle, it will blip on my vacuum gauge momentarily but then go to 0 in a steady state cruise situation. Anyone else have any issues with the ported vacuum???

Is that TunerStudio or something like it?

I keep getting a RPM Noise fault code. Arggghhh Switched out the coil and it went away. I'm guessing I had a bad coil.

I'm going to do that, as well as see if I can route the tach signal wire as far away from any ignition component that I can. But it's kinda hard when you have the coil mounted in the stock location right next to the distributor.

I've been having a weird problem. In the morning when it's cold, I'll see the RPM swing way up and go back down, I'm also seeing the AFR go to 10.5 and then go back up, and then down. It seems to stop doing this once it warms up. I also got a RPM Noise fault code now. I'm wondering if the...