FiTech EFI system

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Lustle said:
Which 600 setup are you using? As far as I understand it, it's only the 600 power adder that has the full professional tuning software.
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That's what I was thinking. Mine is not the power adder system, sadly.
 
I just hooked up the control unit to computer and used it like a USB drive. You should find the pro software application setup there. Supposed to come with most all systems.
 
v8_vega said:
I just hooked up the control unit to computer and used it like a USB drive. You should find the pro software application setup there. Supposed to come with most all systems.
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I've looked there. No dice. I've got the GO EFI 4 - 600 hp. None of the documentation even hints at being able to plot the data like OUTLAWD shows.
 
Phreakish said:
I've looked there. No dice. I've got the GO EFI 4 - 600 hp. None of the documentation even hints at being able to plot the data like OUTLAWD shows.
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I do have the Power Adder 600, but I thought I had read the non PA also came with the pro software.
 
Is anybody using this on a 5.9 magnum I'm considering it wanting the LA look getting rid of all the magnum junk
 
Talked to FiTech today and after numerous changes to the settings we both agreed that I need to change the return line. I used the existing 3/8" factory style line that has at least 10 different bends from the engine bay to the fuel tank. Thinking that this is disrupting the fuel pressure with the high resistance of the return.

Have any of you guys used their online kit and had similar sympotma? It's over $100 for 25' of fuel line so I'm looking at all options before I drop more $$$.

On a side note does anyone know what the return pressure is coming from the FiTech TB?
 
58 psi seems to be the regulated line pressure.
Pressure in the return should be minimal, if it gets much above half the line pressure, you can run into problems - but the line pressure is the real issue. Putting a fuel pressure gage on it would help determine if you really do need a bigger/better return.

I'm using the original feed as a return also with a 255lph pump mounted in-tank. WOT is fine for me.

WOT should be the biggest demand for fuel, so the return shouldn't be the issue. The return is most heavily tapped at idle/low flow times. How full is your tank? Possibly fuel starvation due to fuel slosh and an in-line pump? in-line pumps are notorious for starvation when the fuel sloshes..
 
I had the same issue with a full tank as well. The return fuel seems to be a pretty low pressure as when I turn the pump on it sounds like it it's just trickling out.

Phreakish said:
58 psi seems to be the regulated line pressure.
Pressure in the return should be minimal, if it gets much above half the line pressure, you can run into problems - but the line pressure is the real issue. Putting a fuel pressure gage on it would help determine if you really do need a bigger/better return.

I'm using the original feed as a return also with a 255lph pump mounted in-tank. WOT is fine for me.

WOT should be the biggest demand for fuel, so the return shouldn't be the issue. The return is most heavily tapped at idle/low flow times. How full is your tank? Possibly fuel starvation due to fuel slosh and an in-line pump? in-line pumps are notorious for starvation when the fuel sloshes..
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Comparing the supply to return line I would expect the return to have a higher line resistance based on the following.

I have an 8an pickup line from the tank to the pre pump filter, then once it's at the pump I have 6an line to the small filter and then FiTech unit. This should have very little restrictions. Now for the metal 3/8" existing line that I am using as a return it was an oem copy but larger diameter. Measuring it appears to be 3/8" outside diameter. Then with the various bends, turns, etc I can see how this line would have a different resistance rating than my supply. Due to the resistance difference that's why we were thinking it could be an issue. If the return pressure is low could I do a quick trial with standard fuel hose back to the tank and see if it make any difference or at least eliminates the return as the culprit? I hate to spend $105 on efi hose for the test and if it's not the issue. If it does fix it I would swap out thw line to efi rated right away.

Anyways thanks again

71duster06 said:
I had the same issue with a full tank as well. The return fuel seems to be a pretty low pressure as when I turn the pump on it sounds like it it's just trickling out.
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I wouldn't think you need EFI hose for the return, it should just be a low pressure bleed off. I would run regular low pressure hose to test it, and I'd be tempted to keep that hose on there if it fixed the problem.
 
Ok I'll try it. It's irritating as the system runs so well except wot. If this helps I will be a happy person.

72Duster440 said:
I wouldn't think you need EFI hose for the return, it should just be a low pressure bleed off. I would run regular low pressure hose to test it, and I'd be tempted to keep that hose on there if it fixed the problem.
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71duster06 said:
Comparing the supply to return line I would expect the return to have a higher line resistance based on the following.

I have an 8an pickup line from the tank to the pre pump filter, then once it's at the pump I have 6an line to the small filter and then FiTech unit. This should have very little restrictions. Now for the metal 3/8" existing line that I am using as a return it was an oem copy but larger diameter. Measuring it appears to be 3/8" outside diameter. Then with the various bends, turns, etc I can see how this line would have a different resistance rating than my supply. Due to the resistance difference that's why we were thinking it could be an issue. If the return pressure is low could I do a quick trial with standard fuel hose back to the tank and see if it make any difference or at least eliminates the return as the culprit? I hate to spend $105 on efi hose for the test and if it's not the issue. If it does fix it I would swap out thw line to efi rated right away.

Anyways thanks again

You said your problem is mostley at WOT? Like was allready mentioned, thats when you need the MOST fuel, so return flow is probally not the issue. In your picture, you just have a pickup laying in the tank, with no baffles....I would suspect major fuel slosh and air.......

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Gotcha, it's not so much an absolute size issue, but a size difference.

I'd pressure test the supply/return. If the return is too small, the supply won't be consistent or will be much higher at lower fuel demand modes (idle, light cruise).

WOT is still where I wouldn't expect to see the issue, unless your supply pressure is so great (due to the return) that the learning is thrown off and then WOT goes off the VE tables when the pressure returns to normal.

You could likely use regular hose and run it back to the tank, but if you get any kind of resistance in that return or a kink somewhere, it could pop. A pressure test is a lot less risky, IMO, but a temporary/test return *could* work.
 
A complete shot in the dark but I do have a top feed filter sealed to the six pack hood. I would be amazed but I have seen occasional complaints of these causing some turbulence issues or high rpm problems. Worked fine with the Thermoquad but again just trying to rule out all options. The filter top does sit a bit closer to the throttle body as I have a 1-1/4" drop base.

Again, I would be amazed if this was an issue.

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talked to FITech today in depth and they are pretty confident that they know what my issue is. I have the good ol points ignition system with ballast resistor and they are confident that's the issue. Sounds like the 6-7 primary voltage from the coil causes the ecu to improperly work causing my symptoms above 4,500 rpm's.

So next step appears to be ignition... What are you guys using for ignition/distributor as it looks like that's going to be this weekends purchase. I am planning on using their timing control so a distributor that's comparable would be great.

I have a reman electronic style dizzy that I believe would work if locked out but wanted to make sure.

At least it's something to go by... Anyways thanks again guys.
 
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71duster06 said:
talked to FITech today in depth and they are pretty confident that they know what my issue is. I have the good ol points ignition system with ballast resistor and they are confident that's the issue. Sounds like the 6-7 primary voltage from the coil causes the ecu to improperly work causing my symptoms above 4,500 rpm's.

So next step appears to be ignition... What are you guys using for ignition/distributor as it looks like that's going to be this weekends purchase. I am planning on using their timing control so a distributor that's comparable would be great.

I have a reman electronic style dizzy that I believe would work if locked out but wanted to make sure.

At least it's something to go by... Anyways thanks again guys.
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Talk to Johnny over at Pace. He is a vendor here and has a lot of experience with the FItech units. I believe they were the first company to start selling them other than straight from the manufacturer. He sells distributors and will be able to point you in the right direction, especially if you want to have the unit control timingJohnny Pace
 
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