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When I converted my column, I found a floor shift steering column from a mid-eighties truck to rob the collars from, the ignition lock was slightly different on the inside, but looks exactly the same as a E-body one when assembled. I have also seen where a person cut the nub off the column...

I stich welded my subframe connectors in. Did 1" welds every few inches along both sides and fully welded the ends. The car stiffness is amazing now. I see no advantage of welding the entire length except for making you feel good.

You will get a bunch of opinions here...and you could always follow the service manual to set ride height. I have always set my ride height by what looks best to me, nothing crazy though.

I have a picture of a Cuda I owned in the late seventies, unfortunately, it had air shocks on it and I honestly don't know where it sat unassisted. However, in this picture, it seems to sit about the height I am used to seeing for E-bodies.

Are Hotchkis rear leaf springs worth twice the cost?

How does one determine what stock height is, with cars being 50 plus years old, the heights are all over the place.

You don’t move the string to contact the front tires. What I did is use fishing string and a couple of heavy jack stands a couple of feet past each tire. Move the front jack stand sideways until the measurement from front and rear sides of the rear wheel are the same. This establishes a straight...

I used a digital gauge doing my alignments by cutting 1/2 steel square tubing to lay against my wheels using small bungee cords to hold it in place or you can just hold them in place. The digital gauge has a magnet on one side which will adhere to the steel tubing.

I bought alignment plates similar to this and worked great. One alignment and they are paid for. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BQ5VSHV/?tag=fabo03-20 I also made some DYI alignment plates by putting grease between two commercial floor tiles.

Most of the time, I have cut my ball joints out with cut off wheel because I didn’t have a socket.

I bought a set of these for doing my toe checks. HECASA Toe Plates-Most Accurate DIY Wheel Alignment Tool/Gauge Aluminum | eBay

I bought a digital angle finder similar to the link below and cut a length of 1/2 square metal tubing to rest against the wheel to do my measurements. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GH7Y5ZM/?tag=fabo03-20

Maybe your car is possessed and it was not happy with an ugly green steering wheel....

Move the cams such that you get maximum caster, which puts the upper ball joint behind the lower ball joint.

This 69 383-s I owned for 25 years had optional fast ratio steering. The standard 383 pitman arm did not fit. Firm Feel got me the right one. Rod

Call Firm Feel, they will know exactly what you need.

I have found that FirmFeel knows there business with this. I had a big block 69 Barracuda with fast ratio steering. Only they knew which pitman arm was right.

I have these plates from Tenhulzen but they essentially do the same thing yours do.

PS, a few inches off on tire diameter will have essentially no impact to what you need.

Toe in is measured relative to the tire diameter. If you choose to measure toe in with long rods, like they do on the track at NASCAR, you would have to adjust the difference based on the length of the rod. So 1/16 difference between the front of the tire and the rear of the tire would be more...

I wonder if my clunk is the same thing....

Some Mopars such as my e-body had a two piece shaft. I lubed mine up to allow slight in and out movement. Hopefully, that is enough.

I did a similar one, but it was a double d on one end. I ground down my shaft to fit. I liked the idea of the double d shaft, no way it can rotate inside the coupler and is removable.

Wow, that is over the top, even has holes to air out the block through the water pump openings!

5/16 inch, grade 2 bolts have a safe working load of around 300 lbs times 4 equal 1200 pounds. Plenty strong enough to support the engine. The strength of threads on an aluminum intake, not sure. A safety chain to a stronger attachment point, just in case, might not be a bad idea. I have used a...

found this: Hard to read but says 1.25 inches.

Picture of my driver's side suspension on my Barracuda prior to disassembly.

I have had good luck with RustMort for prepping metal and getting rid of surface rust. It is a weak phosphoric acid solution that converts red rust to a stable black layer.

I went with a double d on my end. I ground down the shaft by hand to get the right dimension and then drilled a couple of small countersinks where the set screws go. Rod

Not trying to be funny, but I do think the best option is to not use air shocks. I hope that you get them fixed though!