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exactly happened to me once...but I was unlucky as a cam lobe wore down.....

Disconnect the neg terminal at the battery, isolate it, then try to turn the starter over. I bet it won't. I'll bet nothing else works on the car electrically either. of course it won't but anyone with electrical knowlege knows if you have 12 volts at the starter and touch it to ground...

if you leave the pos on at the battery,as stated before,the pos potential is still at the starter and a wrench or whatever can ground it and spark/weld/scare the hell out of a person. Do it your way,and good luck. I'll do it the way I've done for almost 50 years.

You have to be kidding ? If you take the ground off the battery,you can ground power yourself under the car when removing the starter..by removing the positive AT the battery,you have no way to ground power anywhere under the car

700 max.....650 would work well

cam would be the deciding factor

disconnect the battery positive first

steering box first

if it's heating up going down the road,the rad is not doing it's cooling thing...if in traffic , stop and go, not getting enough air through the rad to cool..Is the thermostat opening on initial start and warmup ? watching the gauge will answer that.

used it for years...060 is as far as one wants to bore a 340...not for Me

a 600 cfm 4 barrel would get You about 25 ponies...headers,in My opinion aren't worth the cost vs HP on a stock motor....I had a 2 door hardtop dodge phoenix(1960) with a 318/4 barrel/stock and it would chirp the tires from first to second at 60...

I ran the mechanical pump on My 498 stroker

if it's overheating at idle...radiator, waterpump(is the water circulating at higher rpm ??) and or airflow issue....Best combination I ever used was 7 blade steel clutch fan...schroud...alum or copper rad...fan should go halfway in schroud...blades half in...half out..

put the key in on position and jump the solonoid relay...if it starts, your toggle is junk

I ALWAYS WANTED TO STROKE A 318. ! HAVE NO INTEREST OR FAITH IN THE 360. i WOULD LOOK FOR A 340 BLOCK IF NOT STROKING THE 318

10 to 1 would be fine

I have a mild 340 and running a proform 750 dual feed/double pump

installed the profrom...removed the demon and a nice difference in performance,idle, and getting off the line. I'm not a dealer but proform has done Me well again.

I have used several proform carbs...just bought a 750 dual feed/double pump with electric choke on e-bay for 439.66 delivered. I like the options,fuel bowl site glasses and other things....don't believe a holly ,comparable, can be had for that price and I have gotten good performance/mileage out...

did u do the tranny or a shop. If it didn't rattle before the tranny job...they may of "stressed" it on a test ride. If You did it and right after the tranny work it rattles..check Your oil level first. ( I know it sounds simple but somtimes the obvious is behind somthing) I would suspect an...

it may be piston slap and I wouldn't worry about it

a "competent" machinist can install hardened seats that don't fall out

Had the same problem on another engine and if I left it in drive and held the brake, it would shut off fine....idle was too high so I turned it down and been great since. Idle should be around 800 give or take a bit

what makes it any different from any other low compression motor except the lenght of stroke? It's not like You're running 14 to 1 compression and a 10 to 1 stroker should give enough fun for most any street cruiser. Running with reasonable gears and the lifetime is depending on everything else...

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