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I agree, unless we are talking extreme situations. found an old case of 10w40 in the corner of the garage ( probably there over 15 years ) . at the bottom of the bottles is a caramel colored sludge. might be able to get it resuspended if I put it in a paint shaker when it was warm.

RRR is probably correct, 318/340 cranks are the same stroke. bore is the big difference. Very few 318 blocks can be punched out to a 340 bore. ( would need a bunch of sonic testing to know its going to be good after boring). not worth it to most guys.

get a buddy to run the drill while you slowly turn it over with a breaker bar. that how I do it on a rebuild or anything thats been sitting a Long time.

both the Magnums I built have them. couple bucks, takes up the slack.

I have put a crap load of miles on my gas engines with 5w40 Rotella T6 in them. never an issue on one oil related. when we pulled the valve covers off the Impreza my buddy a life long Subaru mechanic said he had Never seen the inside of one of those engines so clean.

I have been looking at the Trick Flows but, they use the LA style shaft mount rockers.

That FBO plate is nice, I welded the slots and used that to mark and check after filing it. that way I could use it on the next one or help a buddy out with theirs

I run braided AN line for just that reason. Will probably run an electrical gauge on the next build.

if you do go Indy, DONT Buy them from Indy!!!! you will regret it...…. I would think any head over 300 will require port work.

like they said your missing the cam plug, you will have to turn the engine over by hand while priming to oil the rockers. they do not receive oil at all times.

would be great if someone made some. I know I was looking at one point as well.

I will second the " if I was closer" have an old Plymouth coupe I would love to put a Poly in.

I second the Don't deal with Indy direct...… if someone else doesn't sell it I don't need it.

bushed lifter bores, 4 bolt mains. I don't think either were standard on a 318. especially in 1979

on my big block I ran a couple lines up to a modified coolant overflow and used it as a catch can. ran a -10 line to each cover and put a breather on the top of the can. worked great. only had to drain it once a year.

not seeing how that pushrod can supply that shaft with oil. its going to oil the cup, don't believe those cups are drilled. this will be one to watch.

had one of the pulley bolts on my aluminum pulleys pull into the groove for the one odd bolt hole before. just enough threads came threw the balancer to rub on the cover. thin washer and the squeal went away. since you have the belts off, pull the pulley off and give it a try.

bearings, rings, oil pump & a gasket set? crank might need a turn? a real good cleaning of all the parts. I had a cam wipe a lobe, cost me a cam, lifters, gasket set, bunch of time & brake clean.

I believe some of the early magnum blocks are drilled for LA oiling. not sure how big of a pain drilling a block would be.

it opens at 160, unless you have a Monster radiator in there no way the system can disperse the heat created to keep it at 160. 160 is also probably not optimum to burn off the fuel & condensation that makes its way into the oil. not that the car would run at 160 the way it is.

as these guys have already said, the starter should have no effect on how it runs. now if you knocked a plug wire or vacuum hose off while installing it. that might cause it to run rough.

pretty sad.... looks like it was even a Mopar Muscle article. Just one of the many reasons I wont pay for any of those mags anymore.

You can fog it after as well, just not as easy. pull the plugs and fog each cylinder, might be worth pulling the carb and fogging the intake to coat the intake valves and a squirt in each exhaust port. maybe turn it over once a year and re spritz the cylinders from time to time. I would hope...

73-76 spool type motor mounts. 67-72 biscuit style. I would also think some minor tweaking should let it work.

if he has the magnum/air gap knock off. it will bolt to both magnum & LA style heads. both are dual plane, both are probably more intake than a mild 273 needs.

I'm with Rusty on this one, do a compression check first. it will point you in the right direction and you can peek at the plugs while you are at it.

how clean were the engine & radiator when the motor was reinstalled? you could try flushing the cooling system clean and starting over. how much oil are we talking? clean oil? dirty oil?

those bolt holes look awful low in relation to the exhaust ports. are header gasket blow outs common with this style head? ( I realize these were just released )

yep, grind a hardened bolt to a square and have at em. I have welded a bolt in ones someone tried to get out before me.

Rotella T6 for just about everything. even the lawn mower.....