SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
How do I adjust the Rockers to 0 lash without wiping off the cam lube? Or do i just reapply it?
adjusting rockers to 0 lash
- Thread starter SRT_DSTRHOLC
- Start date
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Get a general setting on one of the rockers on the base circle of the cam lobe and adjust the others like it, not exactly l;ike it. Give it extra play room.
After cam break in, adjust rockers correctly on the cams base circle like your thinking.
After cam break in, adjust rockers correctly on the cams base circle like your thinking.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
so do I do it on the compression strokes? or do I do it this way..."I adust both rockers on one cylinder and then do the next cylinder, I do one side at a time also. I set the intake rocker when the exhaust valve is just starting to open and then rotate the motor over in the normal direction and set the exhaust rockers when the intake rocker opens to max lift and then starts to close a little, 1/4 to 1/2 closed."
burnt, re-read the last sentence of my last port.
theres also the engines book to consult.
theres also the engines book to consult.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
I know what you mean rumble, But Im trying to adjust valves for a new motor...Im a new builder meaning I know nothing of base of the cam or how to get the lifter there. Thats why I asked What method do I use to make sure the lifter gets to the base of the cam
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Example
Turn the motor over by hand with all the spark plugs removed until the #1 intake valve is at full lift then adjust #6 intake valve and so on on the other valves. Doing it this way makes sure that the #6 cam lobe is on the base. Is this what you're looking for? I have the chart. After you get done with the intakes you have to do the exhausts. Let me know and I will send you the chart.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
ooo I have the chart, I just dont want to to lose all my cam lube
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Well how are you going to adjust the valves without rotating the motor? You have to put each lifter on the base of the cam.
If you still got the intake off I would say reapply it.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
I guess thats going to be the only way then.
The base circle of the cam is the part of the cam that has no lift. (The fat part of the egg shape lobe.)
Perhaps if you check out the comp cams web site and look into there first few pages of there on line catolog it will explain a few things about cams for you.
Have fun and have at it.:toothy10:
Perhaps if you check out the comp cams web site and look into there first few pages of there on line catolog it will explain a few things about cams for you.
Have fun and have at it.:toothy10:
66aCUDA
/6 Racer
The first time the motor spins its going to move the lube around anyway. It wont hurt a thing as long as you had it lubed up in the first place. Dont forget to prime the oil pump.
My02.
Frank
My02.
Frank
True, he can also dab it on with a finger onto the lobes while it's installed. Most of the cam is an easy get to with the intake off. Being you should prime the oil pump and oil passage ways first, the lube will not bear the brunt during start up and will be aided by the oil right quick.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
one last question, Should i prime the motor before adjusting the valves before brake in? or it doesnt matter?
daredevil
Well-Known Member
ack all the questions you want. we all want to see you do it right.:toothy10:
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
I used the valve open/valve closed method as described here:
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/14.html
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/14.html
mopar340dave
Well-Known Member
You can use this method, it works well. Just remember to set them at zero lash initially, then adjust for actual use after break-in.
Valve adjustment for LA headed engine:
If your engine is assembled already you need to remove all the pushrods (if they are in) and both sets of rockers (obviously) and the spark plugs should be removed.
If you only have one adjustable push-rod length checker, do the intake and then the exhaust (or exhaust then intake, does not matter).
Make sure the cam is on the base circle on the cylinder you are checking and put the adjustable pushrod(s) in place (adjusted shorter than needed) and install your rockers. You only need two on at this time, but you can leave them all on, no matter. Adjust the adjuster screws so they show about 2-3 threads protruding out the bottom of the rocker and lock them in place. If the thread count that the rocker manufacturer suggests is different than what I suggested, go with theirs.
The first thing to look at is the roller tip to valve alignment. The tip should be just inboard of center on the valve at zero lift.( see Valvetrain Geometry sheet below)
If that looks good, you can move on to adjusting the pushrod(s).
Adjust the pushrod(s) to take out all lash. Do not preload the lifter(s).
Have a helper slowly rotate the engine by hand 2 full revs and watch the roller(s) on the valve(s) closely. It should start at just slightly IB of center on the base circle of the cam, roll out to just OB of center at half lift, and end up at just IB of center at full lift.
If this all works out, add .040" to the actual pushrod length. This is the correct length.
If your roller tip is not in the right spot, you either have to shim the rocker shafts up or possibly use lash caps on the valves to get the required geometry. I have never used the lash caps so maybe some of the guys that have could tell you about those, if you require them.
Final adjustment procedure after new pushrod install:
When the intake just starts to open, adjust the exhaust
When the exhaust closes, adjust the intake
also, a quicker method:
This sheet really helps, too:
The same procedure with some hardware changes applies to all pushrod engines. I hope all this info is not overwhelming, but it is important to the life of your engine.
ZDDP is what your cam needs to survive. This can be found at your local auto parts store, Walmart, etc in a little blue bottle...STP Oil Treatment. The store brand is also fine. I use it as an assembly lube and I use it in my old engines on oil changes. Modern engines have roller valvetrains and don't need it as much. Also, modern engines require lighter weight oils because the tolerances are generally tighter. The ZDDP additive will increase and maintain a higher viscosity over the life of the oil.
Most motor oils contain some ZDDP, but in much lower levels than they used to, before cat convertors. ZDDP is not good for convertors so it has been regulated out of motor oil. Generally, most motor oils will contain 400 - 800 PPM of ZDDP. Adding STP will raise that number up to at least three times that. :cheers:
Valve adjustment for LA headed engine:
If your engine is assembled already you need to remove all the pushrods (if they are in) and both sets of rockers (obviously) and the spark plugs should be removed.
If you only have one adjustable push-rod length checker, do the intake and then the exhaust (or exhaust then intake, does not matter).
Make sure the cam is on the base circle on the cylinder you are checking and put the adjustable pushrod(s) in place (adjusted shorter than needed) and install your rockers. You only need two on at this time, but you can leave them all on, no matter. Adjust the adjuster screws so they show about 2-3 threads protruding out the bottom of the rocker and lock them in place. If the thread count that the rocker manufacturer suggests is different than what I suggested, go with theirs.
The first thing to look at is the roller tip to valve alignment. The tip should be just inboard of center on the valve at zero lift.( see Valvetrain Geometry sheet below)
If that looks good, you can move on to adjusting the pushrod(s).
Adjust the pushrod(s) to take out all lash. Do not preload the lifter(s).
Have a helper slowly rotate the engine by hand 2 full revs and watch the roller(s) on the valve(s) closely. It should start at just slightly IB of center on the base circle of the cam, roll out to just OB of center at half lift, and end up at just IB of center at full lift.
If this all works out, add .040" to the actual pushrod length. This is the correct length.
If your roller tip is not in the right spot, you either have to shim the rocker shafts up or possibly use lash caps on the valves to get the required geometry. I have never used the lash caps so maybe some of the guys that have could tell you about those, if you require them.
Final adjustment procedure after new pushrod install:
When the intake just starts to open, adjust the exhaust
When the exhaust closes, adjust the intake
also, a quicker method:
This sheet really helps, too:
The same procedure with some hardware changes applies to all pushrod engines. I hope all this info is not overwhelming, but it is important to the life of your engine.
ZDDP is what your cam needs to survive. This can be found at your local auto parts store, Walmart, etc in a little blue bottle...STP Oil Treatment. The store brand is also fine. I use it as an assembly lube and I use it in my old engines on oil changes. Modern engines have roller valvetrains and don't need it as much. Also, modern engines require lighter weight oils because the tolerances are generally tighter. The ZDDP additive will increase and maintain a higher viscosity over the life of the oil.
Most motor oils contain some ZDDP, but in much lower levels than they used to, before cat convertors. ZDDP is not good for convertors so it has been regulated out of motor oil. Generally, most motor oils will contain 400 - 800 PPM of ZDDP. Adding STP will raise that number up to at least three times that. :cheers:
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
This is what I use to adjust the rockers. It's easier for me to do it this way than the 90* deal.
Don't laugh at it to much it has come in real handy. It stays out in the shop as you can tell. I found it somewhere on the Internet but don't remember where.
Don't laugh at it to much it has come in real handy. It stays out in the shop as you can tell. I found it somewhere on the Internet but don't remember where.
mopar340dave
Well-Known Member
K.I.S.S.
When the intake just starts to open, adjust the exhaust.
When the exhaust closes, adjust the intake.
This method works on ALL pushrod engines.
When the intake just starts to open, adjust the exhaust.
When the exhaust closes, adjust the intake.
This method works on ALL pushrod engines.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
The above is supposed to me the most accurate way to do it.
mopar340dave
Well-Known Member
I understand that but accurate is accurate and simple is simple.
One way is both, the other is not.
Look at the adjustment chart, my simple method and the one you posted.
They all do the same thing, but one is much simpler and every bit as accurate.
How do you determine the max lift point using your method? The instructions imply that this is important....it is not, it just needs to be close.
If you have a timing tape on your balancer, you can use the method on the chart and you only end up rotating the engine twice.
On the upside, if that's the way you like to do it and it's working for ya, great.
One way is both, the other is not.
Look at the adjustment chart, my simple method and the one you posted.
They all do the same thing, but one is much simpler and every bit as accurate.
How do you determine the max lift point using your method? The instructions imply that this is important....it is not, it just needs to be close.
If you have a timing tape on your balancer, you can use the method on the chart and you only end up rotating the engine twice.
On the upside, if that's the way you like to do it and it's working for ya, great.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
"There is never enough horsepower...."
I think the mopar valve adjustment one wil be the easiest for me.
mopar340dave
Well-Known Member
Cool. Generally, the best method will be the one that you are most comforable with.
Buying a cheapo starter switch with alligator clips is the best way to turn it over using the two sentence method. Using the 90 degree method requires a breaker bar and socket.
P.S. Be sure to turn the engine in the right direction when making the adjustments.
Buying a cheapo starter switch with alligator clips is the best way to turn it over using the two sentence method. Using the 90 degree method requires a breaker bar and socket.
P.S. Be sure to turn the engine in the right direction when making the adjustments.
Yes Burnt, use the chart. I've set valves both ways. When I want accuracy I use the chart. When I'm pressed for time, like at the track, I use the open close method. Either one works.
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
At the time I did not have timing tape and also I had a late model water pump (its still like that now) therefore I did not have anything to go by. I was searching one night trying to figure out how to get out of the situation because I just changed to adjustable rockers. I can't remember where I found it but I believe it was a all make chev,ford,mopar, website. Bam! There was my answer.
I have found that once you start adjusting you only have to turn it the 90* (I guess that's what it is) until you are ready to adjust the next one. I will look at the sheet to find the next one to put at max lift and once I start turning the motor the rocker immediately starts pushing the valve down. I really don't who or how they came up with it but it's a trip.
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