17 wheels and ride height

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Sam_318

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Picked up some boyd coddington wheels on market place, like the look but now I hate my ride height. Front still needs to be set just got done installing a bunch of qa1 goodies. My main issue is with the rear so if any of you guys have a 67-69, valiant and don't mind sharing pictures and saying how much it's dropped in the rear so I can plan on how much to drop mine.
Thanks fellas.
Two red ones is how I would like mine to sit .

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Measure from the top lip of the wheel, straight up to the bottom lip of the fender. That’s your drop if you want to look like the red Val.
 
It isn't the wheels that give you ride height it's the overall tire diameter. You could get the same ride height in a set of 13" wheels if you wanted to....
 
The "Red Brick" is the Valiant you posted pictures of. That car is lowered a lot, and it has a ton of suspension work done in order to allow that and still function. Not sure what you have for QA1 parts, torsion bars etc but getting the front that low and still having useable suspension travel will definitely require some upgrades.

The rear is easier, you've just got leaf springs back there. Which brings us to, what springs do you have? It looks like your springs set the car pretty high in the back.
 
Two inch lowering blocks. Buy quality. I made mine out of 2x3 solid aluminum bar. You will need good u-bolts too.
*gives the side eye*
*grumbles*

for a street cruiser, sure, i guess...
 
72blu asked the important question and touched on the details: what do you have, and to get that low and make it work isn't super straight forward.

out back, front hangers might get you where you want to be. more than likely, you'll wind up with a combo of hangers, different springs and *maybe* a small lowering block.
 
Everything up front besides shocks is qa1.
Not trying to lower the front rear is my issue. I do have caltracs which I plan on taking off since this car is going more towards the cruising direction now. Not sure what type of leaf springs I have they are what was on my 71 duster when I took the 8 3/4 rear out of it .
 
Everything up front besides shocks is qa1.
Not trying to lower the front rear is my issue. I do have caltracs which I plan on taking off since this car is going more towards the cruising direction now. Not sure what type of leaf springs I have they are what was on my 71 duster when I took the 8 3/4 rear out of it .
When did QA1 start making Torsion Bars? I don't see any on their site. Which then opens up the, what size TBars are you running and from whom?
 
72blu asked the important question and touched on the details: what do you have, and to get that low and make it work isn't super straight forward.

out back, front hangers might get you where you want to be. more than likely, you'll wind up with a combo of hangers, different springs and *maybe* a small lowering block.

Nothing wrong with lowering blocks, especially on a cruiser. 70’s Ford 4x4’s came with 4” blocks straight from the factory, which is where the term “highboy” came from.

Like anything there are limits. Really tall lift or lowering blocks can induce issues you have to address. But 2” or less really just needs good U-bolts.

The other thing is, using the hangers to lower the car also has its side effects, lowering hangers change the spring angle which can affect the thrust angle, changing launch characteristics. Again, a small amount isn’t a big deal. But changing that angle a lot has ramifications.
Everything up front besides shocks is qa1.
Not trying to lower the front rear is my issue. I do have caltracs which I plan on taking off since this car is going more towards the cruising direction now. Not sure what type of leaf springs I have they are what was on my 71 duster when I took the 8 3/4 rear out of it .

If the springs were set up with CalTracs then they’re likely drag race springs, which makes sense given the raised ride height. They may also be stiffer than you want for a handling car.

charger426 already asked about torsion bars, and that’s important. Just running QA1 parts isn’t enough to run that low. You need much larger torsion bars, otherwise you’ll be bottoming out the suspension all the time. If you have the newer style QA1 LCA’s with the built in bump stops, you will likely not have enough clearance to the frame to run that low based on how tucked in those tires are.

I run my Duster at a similar ride height, and I run 1.12” torsion bars, the old QA1 LCA’s thst didn’t have bump stops (adding about 1” of suspension travel) and shortened 3/8” bump stops on the frame. Even then, I’m about at the limit with the top of the wheel arch opening down at ~24 7/8”.
 
When did QA1 start making Torsion Bars? I don't see any on their site. Which then opens up the, what size TBars are you running and from whom?
Not sure why you are asking about my torsion bars or anything too do with the front. I've said since the beginning I'm asking for advice on the rear .
 
Not sure why you are asking about my torsion bars or anything too do with the front. I've said since the beginning I'm asking for advice on the rear .

We’re just trying to help you out, running that low requires more than just unwinding the torsion bar adjusters and calling it a day. If you’re not running larger torsion bars your cars handling and ride quality will be terrible at that height.

And yeah, the rear is very simple. You’ll either need new springs, lowering blocks, modified hangers or some combination of all 3. That’s really it for the rear. Well, that and making sure your driveshaft angle is ok.
 
We’re just trying to help you out, running that low requires more than just unwinding the torsion bar adjusters and calling it a day. If you’re not running larger torsion bars your cars handling and ride quality will be terrible at that height.

And yeah, the rear is very simple. You’ll either need new springs, lowering blocks, modified hangers or some combination of all 3. That’s really it for the rear. Well, that and making sure your driveshaft angle is ok.
Yeah I appreciate it and im very aware I do not plan on leaving it that low, as I said in the beginning I still got alot of adjustment to do in the front. This texas heat and not having a garage just hard to get stuff done lol.
 
Not sure why you are asking about my torsion bars or anything too do with the front. I've said since the beginning I'm asking for advice on the rear .
Because it all fits together, Sam. You cannot just "turn your back" and leave the torsion bars just cranked down. It doesn't work like that. @72bluNblu covered it very well. We have a lot of guys on here that are very good with suspension. You did ask for help, remember?
 
Yeah I appreciate it and im very aware I do not plan on leaving it that low, as I said in the beginning I still got alot of adjustment to do in the front. This texas heat and not having a garage just hard to get stuff done lol.
It's a ***** for sure with no garage or shop. Are you where you could get one of those pop up canopies and maybe work under that? It'd be better than nothing.
 
It's a ***** for sure with no garage or shop. Are you where you could get one of those pop up canopies and maybe work under that? It'd be better than nothing.
Yeah unfortunately I've gone through two of them, I do plan on moving here pretty soon for that very reason. Strictly looking for something with a garage now lol .
 
I appreciate all the help and advice guys! I think I'm just going too try out some 2" and 3" lowering blocks. Which ever one works on my valiant. The other I'll use for my 72 duster got a dana 60 I gotta get put together and pinion angle and that fun stuff set, when I get the spring perch welded up so I'll add them then while I'm doing all that.
 
Judging from the picture I would say 3”, did you measure the gap?
Yes 3" is looking about where I want it but not sure about pinion angle, so im gonna buy 2" as well. If 3" does not work for the valiant I'll just use it on my duster. I still need to get the spring perch welded on the dana 60 Pinon angle set.
 
Yes 3" is looking about where I want it but not sure about pinion angle, so im gonna buy 2" as well. If 3" does not work for the valiant I'll just use it on my duster. I still need to get the spring perch welded on the dana 60 Pinon angle set.
You can buy shims to help adjust the pinion angle if need be after you have them welded. I think you know what to do, make sure and give us an update when you do it, Id love to see how it turns out.

Jared
 
And yeah, the rear is very simple. You’ll either need new springs, lowering blocks, modified hangers or some combination of all 3. That’s really it for the rear. Well, that and making sure your driveshaft angle is ok.
i concur, doctor.
 
Not sure why you are asking about my torsion bars or anything too do with the front. I've said since the beginning I'm asking for advice on the rear .
Because if you want it perform its a total package. HOWEVER, if all you want is the looks and handling be damned then slap some lower blocks on it and send it? Guess we are wrong that we ASSumed that you wanted your car to perform well vs just have a "stance" look. Best of luck and stay cool down in TX!
 
Not sure why you are asking about my torsion bars or anything too do with the front. I've said since the beginning I'm asking for advice on the rear .

because its all part of the total package. just answer the freaking question already.. at this point, get the front set where you want it before deciding how far to drop the rear........
 
because its all part of the total package. just answer the freaking question already.. at this point, get the front set where you want it before deciding how far to drop the rear........
AS I SAID BEFORE!
Only asking about rear already got an Idea for the front. I appreciate your opinion!
 
looking forward to the follow up post: lowered my car, looks sick AF but handles like a bag of mashed potatoes and rides like a 80's 4X4 truck-- what do?
 
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