I have almost got my 1967 Dart GT all put back together, just a couple of things I need help with, please? I would like to find a picture diagram of the wiring on the back side of my instrument panel. I am lost as it was not wired when I bought the car. Same on the headlight switch, is there supposed to be a ground wire on the switch anywhere? Then there is the trunk, there is a black wire laying back there that is disconnected. I am assuming it is a ground wire foe the filler neck to prevent static electricity to the fuel tank when filling. Any idea where each end of this wire attaches too. I put in a new fuel tank sender but my fuel gauge still does not move. I am hoping a diagram of the instrument panel will help to correct this. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
1967 Dart GT Wiring Questions
- Thread starter Dan Brown
- Start date
-
Do you have a wiring schematic or a service manual?
If not you can get both online.
I think that your question can be answered by following the circuits. Sorry I am out of town and can not send you anything.
If not you can get both online.
I think that your question can be answered by following the circuits. Sorry I am out of town and can not send you anything.
Later models had a ground wire on the headlight switch and that's the type switch aftermarket provides today. So if you buy a replacement switch it will have a extra male spade terminal at the back of it where you could add a ground wire. Majority of your OEM build used only the mounting hardware for chassis ground. Very little of the instrument panel will function while it dangles from the harness connectors which is a good reason to add a ground wire to it.
Your OEM fuel sender ground was a hard sheet metal like jumper clipped onto the fuel tubes jumping over that short piece of rubber hose. You should have seen this in changing the sender. If/when its missing, owners would use a length of wire and 2 small gear screw clamps to create a jumper.
I don't recall was the tag light wire black or brown but that and the blue wire to fuel sender were the only wires through the trunk floor.
Your OEM fuel sender ground was a hard sheet metal like jumper clipped onto the fuel tubes jumping over that short piece of rubber hose. You should have seen this in changing the sender. If/when its missing, owners would use a length of wire and 2 small gear screw clamps to create a jumper.
I don't recall was the tag light wire black or brown but that and the blue wire to fuel sender were the only wires through the trunk floor.
The black wire in the trunk might be for a factory trunk light if it is on the left side by the filler neck? I bought one off a member and it plugged right in.
Go here MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring Diagrams 1966 to 1971 to find all the wiring diagrams you need.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
PLEASE DO NOT USE THESE as your "first, best and only" source. These ARE useful for some things and can be easier to follow. Instead, download them and use them for "quick" stuff, but rather ALSO get the FACTORY service manuals..........FROM THE SAME WEBSITE!!
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference
which leads to here
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You talking about the entire dash, or just the cluster?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
This is likely your fuel sender wire. It drops down through a grommet in the trunk floor up by the rear seat and connects to the sender. Wire should have a 90 degree push on terminal which fits a round stud
Just the cluster, thanks.
I will try to get a picture of the wire in the next couple of days. There is a tag on it that says it must be grounded to the body or something of that nature.
Thank you very much!
Ok so that wouldn't be OEM. You could chase it back to its source to finger out what it is/was or just follow the label instructions, ground it.
No source to trace it to. It is only about 16" long with a ring terminal at one end and a split ring terminal at the other and was just laying in the trunk when I got the car. Thanks for the reply.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
This stupid "improved software" HOW IN THE HELL DO YOU DO A MULTI QUOTE!!!!!???@Q?!??!??!?!?!
Anyhow, what are your question(s) about the cluster? You can follow the cluster just be looking at the "shadow" of the traces on the board.
If you post a good clear photo of the rear of yours, I can walk you through it
Here are the troubles I found with mine:
Several pins were broken/ loose at the cluster harness connector. In my case I abandoned that one, and soldered pigtails to the board traces, then use Molex connectors.
There's an excellent thread on repairing them:
Printed circuit pins repair
Also, my contact fingers for the IVR were not making contact with the board traces. I had to solder jumpers across from the contact fingers to the board traces, also addressed in the link above
A couple of my gauge stud nuts were loose/ corroded, and I replaced the nuts, then tighten/ loosen the nuts 2-3 times to scrub the terminals clean
The IVR was bad, replaced with an aftermarket solid state one.
Clean (eraser, etc) the board under where the lamp sockets make contact, they become corroded and oxidized
Clean/ bend the lamp socket contact fingers for better contact, replace sockets as necessary, and bulbs
Also on mine I converted from ammeter to voltmeter as in this abosolutely excellent thread. Read all the pages, it covers a number of cluster types
Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?
Last, ADD A GROUND pigtail from the cluster ground point and bolt it to either the dash frame or the column support
Sorry, I have been out of state and just got back. Can you tell me where the cluster ground point is? The only ground I remember seeing is the one for the voltage reducer box. Maybe that is the whole problem? Any pictures would help as well if you have them. Thanks.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
67Dart273, I've said it before, I'll say it again. You are a big asset to this forum. When I read the thread's title, I knew you'd be chiming in with words of wisdom.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The cluster grounds with the mounting screws. It is highly suggested that you add a pigtail to a ground point (the metal of the cluster casting) and run it to the dash frame or column support with a screw/ nut. Several of the PC board mounting screws go into the metal cluster and would be "a ground."
-
