1963 Dart exemple.Early A-body Instrument RegulatorsHello, I replace my defective internal gauge regulator with an external one.My problem is to connect it.Do you think it needs to connect: A with B and C with D or A with D and C with B?
Thank you
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Yes but you do not have the same regulator as me. Mine is the same as the old one with just 2 studs. So if I connect it like the old one, it should work?No?
Thank you for all these explanations but I'm not very good in electricity. Can you trace the wires in the photo?+12 is normally fed to the fuel gauge on the lower stud were you see a new red wire landed above. The internal regulator converts it and sends +5 to the buss that feeds all three. You have to remove that +12 feed from the barrell and re-route it directly to the regulator. You also have to defeat the internal regulator in the fuel gauge to make it work. I opted to replace them all with modern resto replacements in lieu of modifying the original fuel gauge to accomplish this.
I also opted not to cut the factory barrell wire and just removed it from the Barrell and plugged into the blue feed wire to the new electronic regulator. If I ever decide to go back full original I can do so easily.
Normally there is a capacitor that also plugs onto the lower fuel gauge stud and is fastened to where I put my new regulator. It can be omitted when going electronic.
If you decide to bend the fuel gauge regulator arm to seemingly disable it, then connect the new +5 feed to the center terminal instead of where mine is connected. It has been done but not my recommendation. Remember the gauges are 50 years old and likely need to be replaced anyhow. How many times do you want to pull the dash or crawl under it?
SO DID I, IT`S STILL SCREWY !The regulator you have chosen appears to be the thermal type used on non rally dashes. Will it work, maybe? Is it what you want, likely not. Remember the factory regulator is located in the fuel gauge on rally dashes. You have to deal with it first then use an alternate method to supply the 5v to all. I used replacement gauges and a electronic type regulator. Very pleased now!
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A and B are bolted on the same way so why did you put two wires to the regulator?
Where do you connect C? 12V?
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SO DID I, IT`S STILL SCREWY !
Thank you for all these explanations but I'm not very good in electricity. Can you trace the wires in the photo?View attachment 1715181784
Not useful now, I understood the connection.Thank you.By the way, yes I can but defer the answers to keep you from doing something you really do not want to do. There are several if/ands or but’s to your question.
Ok thanks.Term D in your first photo from the first post.
Big problem. I followed your photo of cabling and the regulator warms itself enormously and all the gauges rise at the most?
Big problem. I followed your photo of cabling and the regulator warms itself enormously and all the gauges rise at the most?
Well what did you actually do? Did you defeat the internal regulator in the fuel gauge?????
Review posts 4,7 and 14![/QUOTE
The old regulator is still in place but the little wire is cut (the external connection pin is broken too). Now the + regulator is connected to the blue wire of the big plug
"Did you disable the original regulator inside the fuel gauge?" No,only small wire is cutting but I will disable.Did you disable the original regulator inside the fuel gauge? The lug is still there covered with the plastic screw on protector. You cannot just do what you are doing. My fuel gauge is new and does not have an internal regulator as the original did. I tried to tell you the correct way and not saying what you did will not work, but you have to undo what the factory did first.