1970 Dodge Dart 318 2 barrel Carburetor tuning

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PikaPhantom

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Hey guys I am currently trying to tune my carb with a vacuum gauge and I'm wondering where specifically am I suppose to plug in the gauge because I can't seem to get a response from where I've been plugging it into. I am also having trouble getting a response from turning the A/F screws as well. Nothing happens when I turn them.

thank you
 
Seems like a rebuild may be in order. Start with pulling mixture screws and giving them a shot of carb cleaner,then compressed air. May loosen up the gunk.
Think you can use the vacuum from the pcv port.

Most but not all carbs have two ports, one above throttle plate and one below.

A couple photos would help.
 
First make sure the butterflies are off the fast idle cam. Then make sure the timing is per factory decal, and that TDC on the damper is in fact TDC on the piston location, that there are no vacuum leaks, that the PCV is in good shape and properly plumbed, and that the distributor vacuum advance is properly routed to the sparkport..
What I'm suggesting is that if the butterflies are not in the correct location, then the mixture screws will not respond properly.

But if the butterflies are in the correct location, then, I have one more tip.
Remove the mixture screws,one atta time, and blow compressed air into the passages; fuel should shoot out the top of the carb, so throw a rag over the airhorn. This is your proof that the passage is clear. You don't need 120 psi for this so don't try to inflate the carb;just a short little couple of blips from a low-volume nozzle. Reinstall the screws lightly seated and back them out 2 turns and see what happens. Many times this situation occurs when dirt gets stuck in the top of the airbleeds, or gunk in the emulsion tubes. So if this doesn't cure it, or if the situation returns, then for sure
what they said.
If you get lost, check your T-port sync.(see below)
If the choke won't stay off, you have other issues that must be solved, preferably first.
After you get your T-port synced, you can diddle the distributor, but you must limit the power timing to eliminate detonation. I am not familiar with California cars,controls, or regulations, so if you get into trouble,it wasn't me,lol.
 
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There's a vacuum servo for primary choke pull. That port is one place to hook your vacuum gauge. It's also a place where the root problem/vacuum leak can be.
 
A 70 should have a vacuum port leading to the air filter snorkel heat control. Should have full vacuum there................see the hose leading off from "thermostat" to the right? Where that goes is where you can hook the gauge

cap.jpg
 
Make sure that the accelerator pump works well, they are leather and tend to wear out fast against the metal housings and then your pump shot is short or not exist....
 
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