Has anyone used the 2" drop spindles on their 2nd gen Dart? What size tire can you get under there. How do you like them? Any pictures?
Many thanks
Many thanks
Sorry to be off topic, but who's duster is that?
May be trouble.....I'm struggling with this exact set up and I am using Wilwood discs on a 1967 cuda.
I am using 17" x 7" rims with 4.5" backspace.
This set up with the Wilwood disc brakes pushes the wheels outboard by .750" on each side.
If you have a 73 down car then you may have issues like I do. 73 up have wider tracks.
I have had to go as far as making my own custom hubs to get the track width back in line.
I wouldn't recommend it.
Just to clarify I'm talking about the Magnum Force spindles and not the Fatman ones.
Sorry I forgot about the Fatman ones.
Yep-
"Designed by Magnum Force and based on the big bearing, big ball joint 1973 and up spindles."
So you can expect your front track to change @ 1.5 inches total. I dont know if that's a big deal for your car or not, depends on wheels/tires you are using.
Has anyone used the 2" drop spindles on their 2nd gen Dart? What size tire can you get under there. How do you like them? Any pictures?
Many thanks
Magnum Farce
Why not just lower it two inches with the torsion bars? I know some people do it. I don't know the pros and cons, but there has been lengthy discussions in the past... Seems to work well, and doesn't move the wheel position out any farther than what it is now
59.1 for 73->
57.4 for 72 down
It's 1.7 divided by 2 which is .85. So technicaly your right it's not 3/4".
The drop spindles only move the track as much at the regular 73+ spindles. I honestly don't know what happened with momoparman's car, but the track width change isn't 3/4" per side from early to late spindles.
BUT, they do eliminate any possibility of clearing the outer tie rod end with the rim. Normally, an 18" rim totally clears the outer tie rod end, allowing more backspace to run wider tires. Some 17's also allow enough room to get more than 5.6" of backspace. Not possible with drop spindles, which means you're limited to no more than about 5.6" of backspace, which means nothing wider than a 255 up front for pretty much all A-bodies even with a 17 or 18" rim. Less with a 15" rim.
I've found that the drop spindles are totally unnecessary if you upgrade your torsion bars. The only advantage they give is that they allow you to lower your car 2" without losing suspension travel. But here's the thing, if you run larger torsion bars, you can't even use that travel. Even most 1" torsion bars are almost double the stock torsion bar spring rate. Which means, only about half the amount of travel is needed for the same input force. So, while you can lower the car and keep the same amount of possible suspension travel, you'll never use it. With the 1.12" torsion bar I run (300 lb/in, or nearly 3x the rate of stock), I've yet to hit the bumpstops on my LCA's, even with only about 7/8" of available travel.
I ran Magnumforce drop spindles on my Challenger for a few years. I realized that I didn't need them with the 1.12" bars on it either. I removed them and lowered the car with the torsion bar adjusters to the same exact ride height. No issues whatsoever, despite the loss of available suspension travel.
The drop spindles DO raise your roll center for a given ride height. Meaning, my challenger lowered to the same ride height without drop spindles has a lower roll center than it did at that height with drop spindles. If your car is currently at stock height and you're looking at lowering it, the roll center will change very little, because the angles of the UCA's and LCA's will be roughly the same if the car is only lowered the 2" with the drop spindles and no adjustments are made on the torsion bar adjusters. If you lower the car less than 2", meaning, you install the 2" drop spindles and adjust the torsion bar adjusters so you have less than a 2" change in ride height, you'll have raised your roll center. Probably not so much that most people would notice, but raised it nonetheless.
Personally, I think the drop spindles are a waste of time. Spend that money on a good set of torsion bars and lower the car with the adjusters. One of the biggest advantages of the torsion bar suspension is that it's ride height adjustable.
So you bought another spindle? Had one made? Re-worked the existing one? I'm in a similar situation just wondering what you did.