318/904 Converter/Gears

-
MOPARJ

MOPARJ

What can I upgrade now?
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
861
Reaction score
7
Location
Thousand Oaks, Ca
With my 2.76 geared 7.25 and 318 4/bbl with Comp 260H cam (.440"/.440" lift),manifolds, is there a slightly better converter that will help out performance with this gear? I know I could change the gearing, but i'm curious with the current setup. I currently run a stock converter behind my Trans GO shift kit equipped 904. If another can be used, what is the best brand? This is a cruiser used to go to the cruise nights and drive a few days a week. I just want as much get up and go as possible. In its only time for the quarter mile, it ran 15.56, which im proud of with the gearing and I didnt launch real hard, due to the rear end size.

Not as important, but I have aquired a 3.23 gear set for the 7 1/4 that i'm thinking about throwing in until I get the rest of the 8 3/4 put together (it has either 2.76 or 3.23 gears as well). Will the 3.23 make a noticible difference for a cruiser?

1973 Duster
 
3.23 will be worth your while imo. I ran the best of 15.0 with my 318 and 2.76 gears, dang thing trapped at 95 in second lol. As far as a converter for that kind of gearing, there isn't much out there. Due to anything that will stall when you hit it, will also (usually) slip on the highway. Which is why higher stall goes hand-in-hand with lower gearing, since the rev's are up while cruising. Excessive slip = Heat = Trans worse enemy, or some gnarly cooling system.

A converter is usually selected around engine hp/tq, cam rpm range, weight, and gear ratio. So it should really be the last thing you change after everything else is setup. .02
 
GoodysGotaCuda said:
3.23 will be worth your while imo. I ran the best of 15.0 with my 318 and 2.76 gears, dang thing trapped at 95 in second lol. As far as a converter for that kind of gearing, there isn't much out there. Due to anything that will stall when you hit it, will also (usually) slip on the highway. Which is why higher stall goes hand-in-hand with lower gearing, since the rev's are up while cruising. Excessive slip = Heat = Trans worse enemy, or some gnarly cooling system.

A converter is usually selected around engine hp/tq, cam rpm range, weight, and gear ratio. So it should really be the last thing you change after everything else is setup. .02
Click to expand...

I agree with you, Mike. Being about the same age as you, money is limited, especially wthe the 340 Cuda and school as well (plus longtime girlfriend...nobody heard me say that). The combo for this car will never include higher than 3.23 gears since its a quick little cruiser and the motor will never be more exotic than the following setup whenever I think it needs rebuilding:

-318 (standard bore or .30 over)
-stock 318 heads with 3 angle job
-XE262 or XE268 Comp cam
-stock or KB167 pistons
-no major machine work
-thinner MP head gaskets
-same induction I have now

This will be the only changes to the motor when the time for rebuilding ever comes. I didn't really think there would be a converter better for this package currently or what it may become.

Thanks for the input.
 
I would stick with the stock converter really. If money is tight, you really wont see a good bang for buck with your setup as far as a converter goes. And you definately get what you pay for in a converter. I'd use it as a cruiser. It'll have a little more pep than stock, but with the 3.23 gearing, it's still not going to get-up too much, or enough to justify tossing a couple hundred at a 'verter

Good luck w/it
-Mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top