340 crank in 318?

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95dakotadude

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Hi,

I have a 95 dakota I'm planning on making a street rod out of. I need a cast crank, and was wondering if I would be able to put a 340 crank inside of a 318 block. Is this possible?


Thanks.

(I know I will need a cast crank because the truck will be putting out over 800hp)

EDIT: I meant forged
 
Yes, the 340 crank will work in a 318, get the vibration damper with the crank....

However you may want to get it all balanced. The 340 cranks are balanced for heavy duty rods, and the 273/318 cranks are balanced for the light duty rods...
 
340 cranks are balanced for those heavy OEM pistons. will it fit ? Yeah. Will you be able to balance it? Break out your wallet.
-The early 318(pre 69 IIRC) were steel. Those 318 pistons were way lighter.
-I have a 1965 273 crank. Pretty sure its steel. The 273 rods are kinda puny though. So again might not be the cheapest to balance.
-Im running a stock 1971 360 cast crank in my 68 Formula S clone. Been revving it to 7000+ for 15 years/120,000 miles.Almost no racing(maybe a dozen passes).Maybe Im just lucky.Im not scared of cast cranks on a streeter. Maybe I should be.IDK.
-Should probably mention though; cast cranks are not what you want to support 800hp.
Also, at that hp level, its going to get real pricey on a 318.You might as well start with a 360 and a stroker kit.Otherwise youre gonna have to run some serious boost. Serious boost breaks stuff. It sounds to me like youre about to bite off more than you can chew.Am I wrong?
 
I'm redoing the entire engine. It's getting all forged internals (I misspoke on my first post). Forged pistons, rods, crank, performance cam. I will be running boost ofc, but I think I'm only going to be running like 13-15lbs, which should be completely safe with all the forged things. Am I over my head? Probably, this is my first build, but where else can I start? I got a spare 318 for $50. I'm confident, it's not my first time doing engine work.

Balancing shouldn't cost that much, should it? Since the 340 was made for the heavy slugs, they would have to drill the crank for it to compensate for the pistons, etc. Or, would they have to add mallory to all the pistons, etc. (not sure which way it goes, never had a balance job done)
 
If everything works well 13-15psi is a higher amount for a street/strip V8. But, if you're not going crazy on the heads and intake the it's not a big deal. You'll just be pushing it hard through a small hole and it will limit power anyway. You should plan to replace the main caps with billet steel and install main studs too. And I'd have the bores sonic tested before you get too deep into it. HIgh horsepower is doable - it makes sense to make sure the block can handle it.
Balancing should be easy depending on the parts. Mallory is normally needed if the rods and pistons are heavier than what the crank counterweights are designed for. If you're running heavier H beams and heavier forged pistons then Mallory might be needed. Your machinist can tell you once you both have all the parts chosen.
 
At that power level probably better off with an better alloy aftermarket forged crank.
 
so you're going to put thousands of dollars into a $50 block? How about putting thousands of dollars into $150 360 block?I know from experience it's cheaper to do a 360 send a 318 Justin parts you'll save that hundred dollars easily.price out 318 forged stroker pistons and then price out 360 forged stroker pistons? You'll see the difference right there. the rods are the same size and price.
 
Mr.95 ; From the questions you are asking and the statements you are making I get the sense that you are either very young or very naive.Its also apparent that you are gung-ho on this project. I wouldnt want to discourage you in any way.
- I assume that your pockets are very deep. If theyre not so deep, I wonder if you have considered the big picture?
-To harness 800hp requires a lot of technical know-how,lots of tools, a well-equipped workshop, a lot of money, and time,and usually a support team of some kind.And a further block of cash to fix stuff when it blows up.
-Have you put your plan on paper? With all the dollar signs in the appropriate places?Lined up all the people and places? And the huge block of TIME ?and money?
-I really do encourage you and wish you happy wrenching.
 
You're going to need a lot more than 15 lbs to squeeze 800 horses out of a 318. Remember forged guts don't make it any more powerful they just make it durable. For those kind of HP numbers you will have to have a really good set of headsand a pretty trick cam and your management system will need to be spot on
 
mr.95 ; from the questions you are asking and the statements you are making i get the sense that you are either very young or very naive.its also apparent that you are gung-ho on this project. I wouldnt want to discourage you in any way.
- i assume that your pockets are very deep. If theyre not so deep, i wonder if you have considered the big picture?
-to harness 800hp requires a lot of technical know-how,lots of tools, a well-equipped workshop, a lot of money, and time,and usually a support team of some kind.and a further block of cash to fix stuff when it blows up.
-have you put your plan on paper? With all the dollar signs in the appropriate places?lined up all the people and places? And the huge block of time ?and money?
-i really do encourage you and wish you happy wrenching.

x2
 
800hp is very doable. I'm guessing you haven't seen the 1000hp+ 4 cylinders. I'm kind of following a build from hot rod magazine, with some twists. They did an NA 318 and got it to 425hp. I figure I could get at least that with NA. Then through equations online I found with 11lbs of boost I'd have about 750-800hp. It would be able to handle it no doubt with water/meth injection, etc.

The main reason I want to stick with a 318 is for the simple fact people won't ever guess it, and more importantly, to prove the people wrong who think it's not possible.
 
800hp is very doable. I'm guessing you haven't seen the 1000hp+ 4 cylinders.

I have, but they're not building those motors on a budget. I'm sure there's a market for 850hp, 2+ liter 4-holers to drop into your Mitsubishi Evo, because they're selling them...at around 20k a pop.

As the old saw goes, speed costs money.


I'm kind of following a build from hot rod magazine, with some twists. They did an NA 318 and got it to 425hp. I figure I could get at least that with NA. Then through equations online I found with 11lbs of boost I'd have about 750-800hp. It would be able to handle it no doubt with water/meth injection, etc.

Not to pour warm beer in your cornflakes, but I'd be very interested to see these "equations". My own experience with supercharged engines runs counter to the suggestion that 11 lbs of boost is going to give you a 90-100% increase in HP.

Again, not trying to be discouraging...just realistic.
 
800hp from 318 cubes is possible. On 15lbs, custom rod & piston combo, good quality heads, custom cam (for your exact combo) turning it 7500-8200rpm, modified oiling system, studded everything, maybe even a main cap girdle. Balanced, blueprinted, damn good heads, and an excellent ecm system, assembled and tuned by a pro.

With that goal, you're gonna be in this 15k easy before you even start on the forced induction system. you would actually save money if you would go and get a 360 block and a complete bolt-in forged 4" stroke crank kit. Those 80 cubes will save you the costs associated with components required for the high rpm duty, they will broaden your power band, and even reduce your boost requirements. As well as giving your build room to grow later on.

If you build this 800hp 318, and lined up against someone else running a boosted 800hp 400 small block in a similar car, you'll lose 18 times out of 19 just by virtue of the broader power band from the bigger motor, and they'll have less money tied up in their combo.

in terms of street power, in the 300-500 hp range, it's entirely reasonable to build anything from 273-400 cubes. But at the power levels you're talking about, things get expensive in a hurry. Much Much moreso for the smaller engines than the bigger ones though. Hell, above 600hp I'd argue it's more cost effective to buy and build a late model hemi than a LA or Magnum smallblock.

As far as the crank, you're not going to break a crank. Talking with local racers, something else in the motor is going to break first, and that in turn might break the crank, but your crankshaft isn't going to be a weak link unless there's a defect in it.
 
Actually balancing a 340 crank in a 318 is probably going to be a lot cheaper than trying to balance a 318 crank for a 340. It generally cost a lot more to add weight to the crank than to remove it.

And yes I had to sue national cylinder head for selling me a 318 crank when I asked for a 340 crank a long time ago.

And I agree with the above, unless you are going for a matching numbers engine, spend your money stroking a 360 and grind off the casting marks and paint it like the 318 it should be. No-one will know the difference.
 
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