340 intake question

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downsr

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waverly ohio
Does anyone make a spacer for the front and rear of a 340 intake so you would not have such a large gap to fill to get it to seal.
 
No spacer available. Intake gasket sets have thick cork gaskets for the end rails. What heads and intake are you running? This is not usually an issue. Most people don't even use the cork because it's too thick. Just a bead of silicone works well. Pics? Could you intake have been machined?
 
Elderbrock rpm air gap ,elderbrock heads.I did not use gaskets in front or back just sealant.
It is a stroked 340.I get oil on top of timing cover if i run it at high rpms or get in to it.It has to be coming from the front of intake.I ruled out the oil stick.Was thinking of trying gaskets this time just dont like the gap you have to seal up.Someone told me before that someone makes a i'll call it a filler plate that goes in front and back of intake to take up some of the gap.Cant remember who told me .I figured if they did someone on here would know about it
 
Hi-temp RTV works, if the surfaces are clean. I usually put a bead on both surfaces to be joined.I dry fit the intake to make sure it fits well, and if necessary,I pull the roll-pins out.Those rails like to leak at the corners where the intake meets the heads. I spend extra care there in cleaning, and put a heavy blob of RTV there, following the gasket.

Any chance the oil is coming from the top rail of the timing cover.
Are the breathers clear, in both directions? It sounds like she's pressurizing the crankcase.The crankcase should not be trying to contain blow-by pressure. The pressure should be escaping through the breathers.

Some of us have problems with the china-wall being too high,lol, and a non-existent gap.
 
pcv valve on drivers side, open breather on left side plus breather on left side with hose running to air cleaner.Does not look like its coming out of timing cover.I used rtv before may not have got it laid on good.It's just such a large gap to fill with rtv
 
You have to pay real close attention on that side as the sealing area is not at the front of you intake manifold. It's back a bit where the head/block/intake junction is located.

Look on the bottom of intake for the machined surface, it's usually a bit back from the leading edge.
 
Get a tube of the "right stuff" lay down a nice fat bead front and rear mount the intake tighten it down(don't start it) let it sit over night should be fine..works everytime..
 
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