I am going to change the lifters in my 340 . I have several that will not pump up. I got some break in stuff to go on them is there any thing else I need to look for?
340 lifters
- Thread starter christmas53
- Start date
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EL5DEMON340
Well-Known Member
Don't put thick oil or lube on the sides of the lifters they need to spin, just on the contact area lifter bottom to lobe.
EL5DEMON340
Well-Known Member
Plus I would still run it for 20 min between 2 to 2,500 rpm
I still need to fill them with oil before I put them in. I will be pulling and installing them thru the heads
GTSDustin
Well-Known Member
I am going through the same problem.. Seems to be a problem for these 340s? Wonder why?
And good luck, I tried pulling through the casting holes with no luck, had to pull intake :/
And good luck, I tried pulling through the casting holes with no luck, had to pull intake :/
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Many moons ago I filled a set of hydraulics with oil before the install & had a issue with the valves hanging open on startup. I never did it again and never had any trouble after that.......and, on more engines then I can remember.
Some may disagree, but it's not needed in my opinion.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
^^^^^^ xxs2
EL5DEMON340
Well-Known Member
I don't think cam manufacturers recommend priming them, just submerge them in light oil for a minute and put a daub of brake in lube on the lifter bottom
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Don't fill them with oil.
You have to remove the intake manifold. No SBM heads that I know of have any holes in them big enough for a lifter to fit thru.
I have pulled several out thru the holes in the heads. I have a magnet on a flex shaft that work well .
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I'm sorry,, but you certainly can change lifter/s with stock heads, without removing the intake manifold, I've done it often..
You might have to loosen a manifold bolt, as it will sometimes block the passage if it's a stock length bolt.... it saves all the fluid mess etc,, especially if it's a fresh build with a bad lifter..
I often use a piece of welding rod with a short 90* bend in the end,, flatten the tip a bit,, and reach down and snag the lifter by the snap-ring groove, and pull it out of the bore,, and use a magnet to pull them out thru the head..
You have to fish a bit to get the hook in the snap-ring groove,, but if you look at a new lifter,, you can see where to hook it,, , after a few,, then you get a "knack" (this is more for a lifter with some "shellac" build-up)
hope it helps..
correct...do not fill with oil....
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
all the above info + prime oil system with drill prior to start up.
I submerge them in oil and press the center with a push rod until I stop seeing air bubbles coming out, then install them.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Which ever way you do it,, if you find it cranks like it has no compression,, don't freak out,, just loosen the rocker-shaft bolts off a coupla turns,, and refire,, it'll now have compression, but rattle like hell,, slowly tighten rocker shaft bolts evenly till tight,, if the engine slows as you tighten,, stop tightening,, and wait for the engine "to catch up",, as the lifter bleeds down to operating height..
This is not an uncommon proceedure if you have your heads milled a bunch, and return them to a used engine.. the lifters will be set to your old height, and often need to bleed down, otherwise they hold the valves open = no compression..
hope it helps..
This is not an uncommon proceedure if you have your heads milled a bunch, and return them to a used engine.. the lifters will be set to your old height, and often need to bleed down, otherwise they hold the valves open = no compression..
hope it helps..
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