340 rebuild suggestions

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smartken22

U.S. Navy Senior Chief
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OK, I am at the stage of my restoration when its time for the motor. I was getting ready to re-install the motor when my Dad brought up a good point. The motor has been sitting around for about 10 years without being started. The motor was running good when pulled from the car, but has been sitting ever since. Some worries are, valve springs losing tension due to sitting in one position that long, dried out seals, etc... The last thing I want to worry about is getting the motor reinstalled and have it let go right away. I am thinking about going ahead and having it rebuilt. I plan to call my engine builder tomorrow for some quotes/ideas, but wanted suggestions from you guys on some build ideas as well. It is pretty much a stock 340 with a schneider custom grind street cam in her, full MSD ignition and an eddy air gap intake. I am not looking to go crazy here as I am not draggin this thing, but I still want a mean sounding mopar that turns heads. It has 48,000mi on the motor since it was last rebuilt. Thanks in advance guys! Here are some pics of it right now.
 

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I'd opt for a full roller (cam, lifters, rockers) setup and a set of either Doug's headers or TTi step headers.
 
I'd opt for a full roller (cam, lifters, rockers) setup and a set of either Doug's headers or TTi step headers.

Thanks, I will add that to the list. Any recommendations on roller cam profiles or should I leave that to the builder? I just received my Dougs headers, X-pipe and 2 chamber Flowmaster mufflers. Here are some pics:
 

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The specs of the cam should be something you seriously consider. What are your plans for the car (show only, street/strip, strip only, etc...) and what tranny are you going to be using? The rear gear will play a part with what you wanna do with the car, plus with size tires are you planning to run? All question are needed to be asked in order for the correct cam to be picked. I wouldn't just leave cam spec to builder but be active (you) in picking the right cam.
Also make sure the roller cam you get has an intergrated case iron gear on it and also use a hardened intermediate shaft.
Also what pistons are you using? Iron or aluminum heads (valves and cc size)? What's the desired compression you're looking for.
 
The specs of the cam should be something you seriously consider. What are your plans for the car (show only, street/strip, strip only, etc...) and what tranny are you going to be using? The rear gear will play a part with what you wanna do with the car, plus with size tires are you planning to run? All question are needed to be asked in order for the correct cam to be picked.
Also make sure the roller cam you get has an intergrated case iron gear on it and also use a hardened intermediate shaft.

Wow, I had no idea! I am running a A-833 4 speed tranny and I have no idea what gears are in the rearend. I know it is an 8 3/4 rear. Any way to check what gears? I probably should pull the rear third member and have that redone as well since its apart. Tire sizes are gonna be Front: P205/70SR14, Rear: P245/60SR14. Car will be a street/show car...no strip time.
 
The specs of the cam should be something you seriously consider. What are your plans for the car (show only, street/strip, strip only, etc...) and what tranny are you going to be using? The rear gear will play a part with what you wanna do with the car, plus with size tires are you planning to run? All question are needed to be asked in order for the correct cam to be picked. I wouldn't just leave cam spec to builder but be active (you) in picking the right cam.
Also make sure the roller cam you get has an intergrated case iron gear on it and also use a hardened intermediate shaft.
Also what pistons are you using? Iron or aluminum heads (valves and cc size)? What's the desired compression you're looking for.

Not sure on pistons and internals. I was gonna leave that up to the builder. I have no experience building longblocks so I am gonna have it done by the professionals. Not sure which heads to run...I know they are pricey! I may just have the stockers that are on there now built up. I am not trying to spend a grip of money on this build if you know what I mean.
 
From the pictures, it look like stock iron heads (nothing wrong with that at all). For the gears (3.23s will be just fine or a set 3.55, but 323 is what id use) and the fact your using a speed opens up more options for you. Id recommend that you use a hyd roller setup , in fact I'd recommend my cam because your setup is just like mine (I have an auto though).
 
Just make sure you have enough piston to valve clearance. Okay here are parts for the roller. Comp pro magnum roller rockers, Hughes hyd roller lifters, and a lunati roller cam (again make sure it has a cast iron gear on it).
Here are the cams specs
@.50 231"in/239"ex
.515"in/.535"ex lift
110/106 lobe sep
2400-6200 Rpms

This should get you 400 HP min.
 
From the pictures, it look like stock iron heads (nothing wrong with that at all). For the gears (3.23s will be just fine or a set 3.55, but 323 is what id use) and the fact your using a speed opens up more options for you. Id recommend that you use a hyd roller setup , in fact I'd recommend my cam because your setup is just like mine (I have an auto though).

Thanks for all the info. According to the Vin, they are wedge heads. Not sure what that means, but I have heard good things so far about them. I will talk to my Dad tomorrow and ask him what gear ratio is in the rearend. Not sure if he is gonna know or not. Either way, I think its due for a re-build regardless so I will probably send in the third member with the motor. Depends on what they quote. I may just wait for now. I will for sure tell the builder to go to a full roller setup for the cam.
 
Just make sure you have enough piston to valve clearance. Okay here are parts for the roller. Comp pro magnum roller rockers, Hughes hyd roller lifters, and a lunati roller cam (again make sure it has a cast iron gear on it).
Here are the cams specs
@.50 231"in/239"ex
.515"in/.535"ex lift
110/106 lobe sep
2400-6200 Rpms

This should get you 400 HP min.

Awesome, sounds good! What is the idle properties of that cam? Lopey, choppy? What price range you think I should expect from the builder just for an idea? I am taking him the motor. I am not sure if they are gonna dyno run it out of the car or wait until its installed in the car.
 
Awesome, sounds good! What is the idle properties of that cam? Lopey, choppy? What price range you think I should expect from the builder just for an idea? I am taking him the motor. I am not sure if they are gonna dyno run it out of the car or wait until its installed in the car.
Oh the cam requires at least 9.5:1 compression (not a problem with that 340:cheers:) Also the lift is .535"in/.550"ex not .515"in/.550"ex
It has a lopey idle and with that stick your using will be great to let it run in neutral or with the clutch pushed in. Here is a link to the cam in question specs. I just got them grind it to these specs thats all.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1989&gid=289
Here is a link (yes its a camaro but at least you'll hear what it sounds like, it is auto though)
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jifx49pnUIA"]Lunati 60122 idle true duals magnaflows - YouTube[/ame]
 
Oh the cam requires at least 9.5:1 compression (not a problem with that 340:cheers:) Also the lift is .535"in/.550"ex not .515"in/.550"ex
It has a lopey idle and with that stick your using will be great to let it run in neutral or with the clutch pushed in. Here is a link to the cam in question specs. I just got them grind it to these specs thats all.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1989&gid=289
Here is a link (yes its a camaro but at least you'll hear what it sounds like, it is auto though)
Lunati 60122 idle true duals magnaflows - YouTube

That sounds awesome! I will give the builders a call tomorrow to get a quote. Here is the shop that will be doing all the work:

http://fresnoperformance.net/
 
Sounds good. Just to be on the safe side, I'd ask if anyone on here has delt with them before.
 
OK I called the builder today and they say that as just an estimate, it will be between 1200-2000 for the motor depending on what needs to be done to it. They could not give me a for sure price until they get the motor and tear it down. Basically he is gonna tear it down, hot tank the block, and then once he finds out what is good/bad in the motor he can give me a more solid answer. He says with the low miles on it, he should be able to just renew the piston rings, hone, do headwork, and basically go through the whole motor. He also recommended going to a roller setup for the cam, lifters, rockers and said I will need a bigger carb as the 650 is holding back the potential. Based on what we talked about he suggested the 770 Holley Avenger. This all includs the inital cranking, break-in and dyno tuning stating the motor should net somewhere around 400hp to the rear wheels once finished. I plan to bring the motor to him next month so I will keep you all posted on the build through my resto forum. Thanks for the advice!
 
From the pictures, it look like stock iron heads (nothing wrong with that at all). For the gears (3.23s will be just fine or a set 3.55, but 323 is what id use) and the fact your using a speed opens up more options for you. Id recommend that you use a hyd roller setup , in fact I'd recommend my cam because your setup is just like mine (I have an auto though).

I am at my Dad's now where the motor is and took some closer pics of the heads. They are J heads. Just to make sure, what makes them wedge heads?
 

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