360 Motor

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Drg racr

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My buddy gave me a truck load of parts when I picked up my 'cuda last week. I got 2 8-3/4 housings, a center section, 6 14" wheels and a complete 360 motor of unknown origins.
The 360 looks as if it was rebuilt once, but unknown by whom. It has an Offy Dial-A-Flow intake, ceramic Super Comp headers, and hand-made mounts. The block is dated 1972, the heads are 1978. It has good compression, and was fairly clean. I'm gonna tear it down and look inside. Is the block a decent one to use? I'm assuming the heads are not good for performance. Any suggestions on heads, or should I look at aftermarket? It's gonna be a 11-sec weekend racer, eventually.
 
340/360 heads can be made to work its just more cost effective to go after market, If your looking for 11's check out the New Air Wolf heads they flow 300 at .500" lift, there's a Engine Masters 360 engine build that make 520hp with those heads.
 
I think a Briggs and Stratton 5 hp engine would make almost 500 hp on that dyno...LOL Probably the same 520 HP engine that was in mopar muscle last month...just remember...those are corrected to 60 degrees and sea level...plus the water temp is controlled ...nothing like real world conditions..

Does the EM engine have a Engle 241 @ ,050 hydraulic camshaft with around .590 lift with 1.6 rockers...

360 with kb107 pistons...Rhs LA- X heads would make it easy...plus to get a 360 in the 11s you are going to need gearing..converter.....I got a pretty mild 360 that has run a best of 11.72 with the air over 5000 ft..

The early blocks are suppose to have thicker cylinder walls which is a plus..

This is what I used....

71 Duster 360 .030
KB 107 10.3 to 1 compression
Stock Crank

Howards hydraulic cam 242/242 .050 with .562 lift with crane 1.5 rockers
Eddy OOTB heads with Hughes 1111 springs
Eddy Air Gap Intake with Holley 750 DP
Mopar Race Electronic Distributor
MSD 6AL
TTi Stepped Headers

904 with 2.77/ 1.54 gear set
8 3/4 with 4.30 spool
002/003 SS spring and CE shocks
MT 9 x 28 slicks
PTC 8" converter
Car weight 3100 lbs with driver

Best so far is a 11.72 @ 113 on a hot sunny afternoon with DA over 5000 ft...
 
I understand what your saying and I know Magazine test their engine in optimal and corrected conditions, but doesn't make their result any less useful just different and what's real world anyways, everywhere different? :) and most of those magazine builds are built and dyno'd by the same people making them very comparable to each other even if there numbers are a little on the high side. Plus most people are use to the magazine power numbers more than so called real world numbers making it more of a standard to anyone that's not in pro racing and if that 360 only makes 470hp on a real world dyno it's still a strong engine that I would love to have in my Cuda.
 
All 360 blocks are suitable for a mid 11 second build. Tear down the motor and inspect everything. If all checks good then freshen up with new rings and bearings. I'd go with a solid flat tappet cam in the 250* @ .050 range. As far as the cylinder heads go, all the iron OE heads are more or less the same with subtle differences, and similar performance potential. Unless you can work over your own heads, you'd be better off going after market though. Personally I like the Edelbrocks, If you can swing it have them ported. Ditch that relic of an intake for RPM AirGap. You could probably get a pretty good price out of it on Ebay. The headers you got are a good match. Getting that car in the 11s is gonna take 4.11 or deeper gear and a good 4500 stall converter too.
 
I pulled the heads off today. The heads are the 4071051's, in very good shape, rebuilt at one time. The intake had a date of 1991. The pistons are .030 flat tops, stock rods. There's a little ridge in the cylinders, but not bad.
How far can I safely go overboring?
Will the stock crank hold up to weekend racing?
This is my first Mopar build. Every Mopar I've had before was already built.
Is there a Mopar Engine Build for Dummies? ;)
 
the stock crank will handle anything you can throw at it..
 
Dove further into it today. The crank was turned .010 and the bearings had very little wear, if any. The cam was stock, about a .334 lift (est). The only issue I found was a bunch of brown, hard plastic-like material sealing in the rear cam plug. I'm guessing a bad freeze plug and someone didn't pull the motor to fix it.
 
Good signs. Depends how far you want to go,what you want to spend.
 
11 seconds? I have to say " GET REAL, GET THE JUICE" !!
 
Best guys ,to talk to :All here.Ramm,Ou812,(specialises in RHS heads,) and MRL. All deliver,outstanding products,for money spent And all are brutally honest.
 
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