383 build questions

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zac_F71

zac_F71

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I have decided to start shopping for engine parts -

Looking at pistons - what to get besides the typical Speedpro's - who else makes an affordable piston set for the 383? I'm talking Forged pistons not cast or hyper's..

I have the option of a stock steel 383 crank OR a stock 440 crank - at this rate I'm going to say F it and buy a 440 source 438cu in stroker kit.. (expensive route)

OR should I just stick with the stock forged crank/ Eagle H beams/ true flat top speed pros? (the cheap route and leaning this way the more I think about it)

over all plan is a small tire single turbo car street/ strip car no faster than 10.00 in the 1/4
 
fratzog lover said:
I personally like the 438 route. Dont know of anyone who has built one. One of these days I'm gonna build one of my own!
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I do too and it can be done cheaper than the 440source way.. (stock crank/eagle 440 rods/440source pistons)

BUT I kinda wanna be different at the same time - build a mild 383 like MRL did and then turbo it..
 
My choice would be Diamond flat top if it'sa budget deal. If it's a serious turbo effort call CP and have them make a set plus some spares for you.
 
Just looking to find stock stroke forged pistons w/ 2 valve reliefs for around $500/ set - they're all over the place for 440's but none for 383's

I really like 440source's pistons but they're stroker pistons and don't make a stock style piston.

Thanks but this effort is not worth $1,000 worth of custom pistons..

My motor has been 0 decked (before I got it) so I'm betting a stroker combo will go above the deck which I'm trying to keep static compression around 9:1 -9.5:1 to be boost/pump gas friendly

What about fly cutting reliefs in true flat tops? Is it worth trying/having done?
 
Even if the block was cut to the blueprint deck height available shelf number pistons will still be below deck. You can calculate it - just get the compression height and add it to the rod length and 1/2 the stroke. Without taking a lot of effort the best you're going to get is 9-9.5:1. As far as flycutting - I wouldn't, but then again I wouldn't run a cheap piston in a turbo engine.
 
moper said:
Even if the block was cut to the blueprint deck height available shelf number pistons will still be below deck. You can calculate it - just get the compression height and add it to the rod length and 1/2 the stroke. Without taking a lot of effort the best you're going to get is 9-9.5:1. As far as flycutting - I wouldn't, but then again I wouldn't run a cheap piston in a turbo engine.
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Well I don't plan on running 30psi a well built mild big block shouldn't need more than 15psi to make good power with a decent turbo- this is going to be a 99% street car no cage, full stock interior, ect.

$400+ in pistons isn't cheap even though they are in fact the cheapest forged pistons available - i just don't like that they have no reliefs is my only gripe about them, cheap is $250 for cast pistons and rings.. or $375 for hypers, which I don't have the budget for either of them (meaning I don't have extra money to replace pistons/machine work involved) nor do I want he car down like that always tearing it apart from blowing up

The site posted is the only place I have seen that carries stock stroke 383 pistons with reliefs which I will probably end up going with..
 
Found Mancini has diamond's for $640/set so I'll be going that route and buying most of the stuff for the short block thru them..

SO here is the plan me thinks -

.030" over 383 - hoping for like said 9:1- 9.5:1 static compression

diamond flat top pistons
eagle H beam rods
stock steel forged crank
billet timing gears
Comp XE275HL-10 cam (231/237 @.050" .525" lift) - probably retard when degree'ing so power comes in a little later
71 440 "346" heads w/ a mild home porting and mill while getting cleaned up/fixed/springs spec'd (stripped plug hole)
1.5 roller rockers
Edelbrock torker 383 intake (may ditch for Performer RPM)
Holley/Demon 750 mechanical 2nd
Heddman B body headers
Summit 3" X pipe, Summit 3" tail pipes, and 3" Dynomax Ultraflow's (I'm partial to them as I LOVE there sound)
727, 4.2 lever, Transgo shift kit
2800 stall
3.23 gear 8 3/4
275/60 Nitto drag radials
 
fratzog lover said:
I personally like the 438 route. Dont know of anyone who has built one. One of these days I'm gonna build one of my own!
Click to expand...

x2

I'd never spend a dime to rebuild a big block with small block cubic inches and go through all the rigamaro of swapping a big block in to gain 23cubes. I've built 2 big block darts so I know what goes into one
 
roccodart440 said:
x2

I'd never spend a dime to rebuild a big block with small block cubic inches and go through all the rigamaro of swapping a big block in to gain 23cubes. I've built 2 big block darts so I know what goes into one
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Well the times have proven there is a replacement for displacement - my car is going from a 225 slant 6 to the 383 so it's not a "23cu in" thing to me it's 158cu in to me, doing a very reliable mild 425-475hp build then adding a decent turbo..
 
zac_F71 said:
Well the times have proven there is a replacement for displacement - my car is going from a 225 slant 6 to the 383 so it's not a "23cu in" thing to me it's 158cu in to me, doing a very reliable mild 425-475hp build then adding a decent turbo..
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It's not just about displacement. Compare for instance a 451 vs. a 440.

fratzog lover said:
Think Rocco meant 360>383.
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that's exactly what I meant.

225 sad 6 to a 383 is huge. You'll be happy you did that and it will be beyond a night and day difference. Still to me I'd be looking at a 440 or stroking the low deck, turbo or not. 475 on a 383. That can be done but I'd like to see your build sheet and dyno test. It's going to cost you some loot to make that happen or give up some streetablility with cam choice.
 
fratzog lover said:
Think Rocco meant 360>383.
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Probably BUT my car has never had a 360 in it so why that would be brought up is beyond me.. ya it's the popular swap and I have a 360 but it needs the same work as the 383 - the 383 at 450hp will be more mild than the 360 at the same level so that argument is void..
 
roccodart440 said:
It's not just about displacement. Compare for instance a 451 vs. a 440.



that's exactly what I meant.

225 sad 6 to a 383 is huge. You'll be happy you did that and it will be beyond a night and day difference. Still to me I'd be looking at a 440 or stroking the low deck, turbo or not. 475 on a 383. That can be done but I'd like to see your build sheet and dyno test. It's going to cost you some loot to make that happen or give up some streetablility with cam choice.
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I see what you're saying.. nothing for the engine build is set in stone except the Diamond pistons and Eagle rods - be it stock stroke or 3.75" stroke..

I'll be honest the rods/pistons are the same price for either setup and I have the option of a machined ready to go 383 piece for $200 or a unmachined 440 piece for $150 both stock forged pieces.. as I think the 440source kit is a tad on the high side..

My plan for right now is to build a stout short block and run the $75 346 heads I have on it til I can save $1,700 to build a set of stealth heads - upgrade is stages while driving the car..

The reason for 600whp is my old 306 fox mustang made 300whp so I gotta double it for the Demon.. the 383 big block was my dad's idea so I'm going with it - like said I have 2 engine trans combo's - 360/727 / 383/727 - plus I got the 383 for $175...
 
I'm glas you found the Diamonds. The 2.2/2.5 turbos ran 8-10psi and they had forged pistons... There are reasons.
If it was me I'd save a little more $$ and order a custom cam. From some companies the money is similar, and just like the boost concern - you don't really wan't the Comp's cennterline or LSA.
 
zac_F71 said:
My plan for right now is to build a stout short block and run the $75 346 heads I have on it til I can save $1,700 to build a set of stealth heads - upgrade is stages while driving the car..

The reason for 600whp is my old 306 fox mustang made 300whp so I gotta double it for the Demon.. the 383 big block was my dad's idea so I'm going with it - like said I have 2 engine trans combo's - 360/727 / 383/727 - plus I got the 383 for $175...
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If you think you are going to build a mild 450-475hp 383 with 75$ 346 heads again I'd love to see the build sheet and the dyno results.

600whp out of a stock 383 block. If you achieve that I'd have to question what the longevity will be for that engine.

I don't want to kill your dreams here. That isn't my intention but I'd hate to see you be unrealistic with your goals and be disappointed or have the thing self destruct on you.

In regards to your head choice, read this.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=220757

read this as well.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=305694
 
All the 2 valve 2.2/2.5 turbos had cast pistons stock except for the Turbo III. Course they were done making power by 5700 rpm.
 
rkite said:
All the 2 valve 2.2/2.5 turbos had cast pistons stock except for the Turbo III. Course they were done making power by 5700 rpm.
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I thought the Turbo IIs had them too...
Sorry for off topic.
 
fratzog lover said:
Maybe a 400 would be a better building block, no pun intended.
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you gonna buy the 400 block for me? Didn't think so - already have a 360/727 combo, and the 383/727 combo sitting here..

Decision has been made 438 stroker - my machinist is at least a month out due to dirt track season fast approaching which is fine cause I'm in no real hurry and gives me time to buy the small parts the block needs, as well as the crank
 
Zac- kinda thinking you would be better off with 2.5" pipes, not 3" at that power level. PM me and we can discuss by phone. I just built the exact 383 you are specing. Diamonds, 9.8/1 & 906's, Comp XE275HL cam. You're right on target.
 
you're probably right - I do plan on turbo'ing the car plus 3" tail pipes may not fit between the fuel tank, and the offset leaf springs.. plus the 2.5" Summit exhaust is cheaper! haha
 
zac_F71 said:
Decision has been made 438 stroker
Click to expand...

Now you are cooking with fire. That will give you the mild NA numbers you are shoting for with ease.

zac_F71 said:
you're probably right - I do plan on turbo'ing the car plus 3" tail pipes may not fit between the fuel tank, and the offset leaf springs.. plus the 2.5" Summit exhaust is cheaper! haha
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I run 3" at the power level you intend. It liked it.

They do fit with a mini tub. There are 2 ways to make that happen.

One is to narrow the factory tank. The other is to put the tailpipes outside the rails as shown in pic.
 

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