440 Stroker Cooling?

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wazoo64

wazoo64

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Anyone running a stroked 440 (528ci)? I am having one built for my 67' coronet and will be 700+ HP and concerned on the cooling. I know there are lots of variables but just looking for someone thats running a big monster on the street and keeping it cool. Here is what I will have
1. Champion 3 row stock size aluminum radiator
2. 2x12" flex a lite electric fans 3000cfm
3. Eddy waterpump
4. 10 to1 compression
5. radiator mounted external tranny cooler
6. 160' stat
 
I'm running a 30" Be Cool radiator with dual Spall fans on my stroker with 11.5 to 1 comp and I usually have to shut the fan off when I'm driving on the highway due to the temp dropping to 160. I don't have the fan relays tied to the temp switch rather I have a manual switch inside. I don't have the thermostat in my car.. I don't drive in cold weather so I run it wide open. (May be a bad idea as it takes a while to warm up even when its hot.) I cut the opening about 2-4 inches on each side then boxed the edges so I would have the entire face of the radiator catching wind.

I run a Moroso water pump with ball bearings instead of bushings and a trans cooler that is remote and not tied to the radiator. The trans cooler sits inside my front right wheel well mounted to the front core support so it gets fresh air through the front opening.

I have never seen it go above 180 and I only run one of two fans....keeping the other as a spare to use on the fly.
 

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Thanks makes me feel better. I have the 70's block which is supposed to have larger water passages and I will run the remote trans cooler. Did that on my 64'. The stock radiator is only 26 wide but may be taller than yours so capacity is probably similar. My fan set up has a shroud built in as well and if you want the best fan module you should get the flex a lite one. It will make sure fans do not run on cranking and also will keep fans on like new cars for about 30 seconds after shutoff. You can use the block sender or probe style. Its a very nice module.
 
Buy the radiator based on your projected hp. Mine is good to 1000 hp and I push 700+. The plus being whatever I decide to push it to when I get bored. If your using the temp gauge as the signal to the relay then the fans should only come on when it gets to temp and then after you shut off they should run till it gets below temp of sending unit.

That's a typical set up as far as I know. Only reason I ran mine the other way is that I used a mechanical water temp gauge and wanted to keep wires to a minimum on my engine......need to find another place to put the sending unit thats closer to the fire wall or lower on the block

You should be fine with what you have now and what you may do in the future.....turbo charged systems aside. :blob:
 
US Radiator will build you exavtly what you need for a given HP level, and the look stock too. Never did like the look of aluminum radiators in these old cars. Run a shroud and a good clutch fan. Lots less drain on your electrical system too.
I have the dual Spal fans on my 700+ HP 1970 e-body with integrated shroud, and they can suck up to 40 amps at full tilt. If I had it to do over, I'd go the route I suggested to you.
 

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^What's up with that, this is the 3rd cooling issue thread I've seen and they all share a common thread; the 160. No. Just No. 195 please.
 
Not trying to run it at 160. Just when its cool out it runs at 160 because I have no thermostat...don't lecture me on the importance of it please. This is a special situation and I have my reasons. When its 75 + degrees out and humid as hell which is every day after May 20th, I run one fan of two and it runs at 180-190 in stop and go and on the road. Perfect for me. Perfect for the engine.

Just saying you can achieve low temperatures through careful planning and proper selection of components.

I would recommend installing a thermostat in your application and I would also drill a couple small holes around the edges of it as a bypass...cheap safety insurance...1/8" is fine.

Mop
 
No lecturing just wondering why he was using a 160 degree thermostat.
and if there was some benefit to trying to run a stoker that cold.
 
IMO they run best when they are warmed up. Mine runs like a beast at 180-190. At 160 it seems to run a bit rich. That's why I would recommend a thermostat and also doing the bypass trick. I'm planning on putting one back in this fall and seeing how it works out when it gets cooler out.
 
my last car had a port efi 505" with a Muscle Motors long block.I used one of Mancini's custom units (22") to fit the panel without mods.I ordered it with the shroud.All this after the dual electric fans and griffin radiator couldn't cool down once hot.Once installed it was at 195degf. consistently, no matter the traffic or abuse.Trans cooler was mounted externally in front of, and off of the header (blacked out).It was 650 hp with around 700 ft lbs (dyno'd with a carb at MM), would wind up to 6 grand in an instant and never ran hot again
 
figured out how to resize....
 

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