5 prong 4 prong?

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BWDart

BWDart

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My new dizzy came with an orange box which has 4 prong orig had 5 is that a problem?
Thanks
 
something like this
wiring.jpg
 
MoparMike1974 said:
So I always wondered, what was that extra wire for?
Click to expand...
The factory modules needed a lower voltage (along with the 12v) and Chrysler did it with the other side of the dual ballast resistor to the fifth pin.
The aftermarket modules did it internally with the 12v that was already there.


Alan
 
That diagram is AFU. It shows the coil bypass going to the yellow start NOT CORRECT!!!! The coil wiring is UNCHANGED from the old breaker points system.

5 wire vs 4:; Even though a box has 5 pins that does not make it a 5 pin box. You must ohm out the pins to see if the "5th" pin is open to find out. Changes of actually buying a new 5 pin are fairly small, unless NOS

With a 4 pin box you can use either a 2 or 4 pin ballast. "The other half" of the ballast does nothing.
 
67Dart273 said:
That diagram is AFU. It shows the coil bypass going to the yellow start NOT CORRECT!!!! The coil wiring is UNCHANGED from the old breaker points system.

5 wire vs 4:; Even though a box has 5 pins that does not make it a 5 pin box. You must ohm out the pins to see if the "5th" pin is open to find out. Changes of actually buying a new 5 pin are fairly small, unless NOS

With a 4 pin box you can use either a 2 or 4 pin ballast. "The other half" of the ballast does nothing.
Click to expand...
I have a 4 pin ballast so I can just leave it as is?
Thanks for your help
 
Cuda Al said:
The factory modules needed a lower voltage (along with the 12v) and Chrysler did it with the other side of the dual ballast resistor to the fifth pin.
The aftermarket modules did it internally with the 12v that was already there.


Alan
Click to expand...
Ya I wondered bout that thanks for explainin it
 
Yes, all assuming you have OEM wiring, the 4-pin module just plugs in and works.
The 2nd half the ballast just does nothing.


Alan
 
BWDart said:
The ballast
Click to expand...

You could or replace it with a 2 pin ballast. As I said earlier the ballast wiring is not modified from breaker points with a 4 pin box. ON a side note, if it ever quits you, and you have a breaker points dist. you can just unplug the module, dump the points distro in there, and hook up the neg. coil terminal to the dist. wire. Off you go
 
AFU? Whats wrong with that...START gets direct 12v to coil - bypassing the ballast resistor (same side as coil+) then in RUN, the coil gets ballast conditioned + voltage through ballast...is that wrong?
 
pishta said:
AFU? Whats wrong with that...START gets direct 12v to coil - bypassing the ballast resistor (same side as coil+) then in RUN, the coil gets ballast conditioned + voltage through ballast...is that wrong?
Click to expand...

The (factory OEM) brown bypass circuit comes off a dedicated contact on the ignition switch, completely separate from anything. That diagram shows the bypass connected to the yellow "start" wire. This causes a backfeed condition. With an auto in park or neutral, or with a stick and with the clutch depressed, it puts a load on the ballast/ coil circuit through the start relay coil, and "tries" to pull in the start relay.

If you are using a ballast resistor, example, with a Mopar system and maybe a hot rod with a different column/ non Mopar switch, the bypass circuit can come off the start through a series diode or use the start circuit to run a separate additional relay for the bypass function
 
67Dart273 said:
You could or replace it with a 2 pin ballast. As I said earlier the ballast wiring is not modified from breaker points with a 4 pin box. ON a side note, if it ever quits you, and you have a breaker points dist. you can just unplug the module, dump the points distro in there, and hook up the neg. coil terminal to the dist. wire. Off you go
Click to expand...
Mine is electronic from factory it was a better deal to buy the conversion kit than the new dizzy seperate
 
BWDart said:
Mine is electronic from factory it was a better deal to buy the conversion kit than the new dizzy seperate
Click to expand...
Just use the distributor and module and don't worry about the harness or ballast.


Alan
 
67Dart273 said:
You could or replace it with a 2 pin ballast. As I said earlier the ballast wiring is not modified from breaker points with a 4 pin box. ON a side note, if it ever quits you, and you have a breaker points dist. you can just unplug the module, dump the points distro in there, and hook up the neg. coil terminal to the dist. wire. Off you go
Click to expand...
Ya wish I had a points dizzy I'd keep it in the trunk
 
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