/6 198 rods needed badly

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charged225

charged225

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Hi everyone, Charged225 here. My Duster is a /6 225 turbocharged, I am in desperate need of a set of 198 connecting rods so i can run modern piston. I am having a huge blow by issue because of the old pistons/rings. I am from Riverside, Ca. My Duster usually is my daily driver and i want to start running the boost a little higher. The motor with stock compression ratio will be able to run nearly 20 lbs without any mods; however I have a boost retard ignition and a water pump that kicks on after 5 lbs so it is very bulletproof (pistons beign the last hurdle).

thanks,
Charged225
 
Those rods are for cast crank engines.^^^

OP, do you have a cast crank or forged crank engine? ( hint: pre 1975= forged crank, post 1975 is cast)
 
/6 Matt said:
Those rods are for cast crank engines.^^^

OP, do you have a cast crank or forged crank engine? ( hint: pre 1975= forged crank, post 1975 is cast)
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Hay dummy, you gotta scroll button on that thing? They are both there. lol
 
Yeah don't bother with OEM rods. By the time you get them fitted with bushings, ARP bolts and resized you will be into them the same amount of $$ as the K1 rods.

I went down that road for like 5 minutes on my build until I realized people were asking (and getting!) $200+ for a set of OEM rods.
 
so yall are tellin me that no one knows where some junk yard 198 rods are lol. im a poor college kid thats only dream is to continue dragging all the shitty new camaros, stangs, and vettes.
 
Well if you are a poor college kid, you are barking up the wrong tree building along rod slant to begin with.
 
charged225 said:
so yall are tellin me that no one knows where some junk yard 198 rods are lol. im a poor college kid thats only dream is to continue dragging all the shitty new camaros, stangs, and vettes.
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you didn't catch what was said... they cost the same in the end. one is hard to find and has to be completly "rebuilt", the other comes in a box ready to go other than the little stuff. the 198 rods became so popular before the aftermarket started making them they go for alot of money. when the new rods came out the price really never dropped.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well if you are a poor college kid, you are barking up the wrong tree building along rod slant to begin with.
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LOL, you could buy a 360, a used Edelbrock carb and a sb mopar transmission on craigslist for the cost of a set of rods & pistons, and it would be faster than your turbo slant.
 
Cheap and 198 rods don't go in the same sentence. You will probably pay $200+ or so for the set. Then you are probably going to have them reconditioned. 198's are not common engines to begin with. Good luck in the search/build.
 
robertob said:
LOL, you could buy a 360, a used Edelbrock carb and a sb mopar transmission on craigslist for the cost of a set of rods & pistons, and it would be faster than your turbo slant.
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Maybe; maybe not...

That depends on a lot of things... the amount of boost the six is running, the specifications of the 360...

Tom Wolfe ran a bone-stock 225 slant six with a Buick GN turbo, blowing thru a Holley 390cfm 4bbl. and as I said, that engine was otherwise STOCK, and with 20 pounds of boost, it ran 12.95 @ 104 in the quarter.

On the other hand, my (normally-aspirated) 360-Magnum powered '72 Valiant with a 360 Magnum engine (only modification was a Hugheserformance cam, valve springs and roller rockers, with early 340 manifolds and 2.25" exhaust,) ran 13.38 @ 102mph... so, don't be too sure the 360 will be faster... maybe mine was a dog, but the cam was mild (214/218 @ .050"-lift.) That was with a 750-Holley on an M-T intake manifold... 3,380 pounds without driver weight.

Engine swaps cost money... engine mounts, exhaust systems, intake manifolds and carbs, usually a bigger, stronger rear end, the usually-required, shorter driveshaft, and whatever engine modifications it will take to make it keep up with that turbo'd slant six... If that money were spent on the six, it would just get faster...

It's not really a slam/dunk to outrun a turbocharged slant six with a normally-aspirated small-block swapped into a 3,000-pound A-Body, I think. Especially, if you take the money spent on the swap and apply it to the six...

Just my 2-cents...
 
charged225 said:
so yall are tellin me that no one knows where some junk yard 198 rods are lol. im a poor college kid thats only dream is to continue dragging all the shitty new camaros, stangs, and vettes.
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I am not so sure that you NEED these 198 rods.... If I were you, and on a limited budget, I'd rebuild the stock setup, paying a lot of attention to ring end-gap specs, and assemble that motor with about .006" piston to cylinder wall clearance, and run 20 pounds of boost with 18 degrees of spark-timing and my guess is that it will really scoot!!!

Boost can make up for ALL KINDS of design errors...

I'd forget those long rods... David Reher said in an article in NHRA's "National DRAGSTER", "a connecting rod's only function is to connect the crankshaft to the piston." He doesn't buy the rod-length advantage, after a gazillion dyno tests...

That's good enough for me...
 
Bill Dedman said:
I am not so sure that you NEED these 198 rods.... If I were you, and on a limited budget, I'd rebuild the stock setup, paying a lot of attention to ring end-gap specs, and assemble that motor with about .006" piston to cylinder wall clearance, and run 20 pounds of boost with 18 degrees of spark-timing and my guess is that it will really scoot!!!

Boost can make up for ALL KINDS of design errors...

I'd forget those long rods... David Reher said in an article in NHRA's "National DRAGSTER", "a connecting rod's only function is to connect the crankshaft to the piston." He doesn't buy the rod-length advantage, after a gazillion dyno tests...

That's good enough for me...
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does it make hp? no but it sure does add longevity and other measurable variables if the change is big enough!
 
A short rod motor keeps piston speed up which is best for a street motor. So really, a stock rod 225 would probably work best anyway.
 
805moparkid said:
does it make hp? no but it sure does add longevity and other measurable variables if the change is big enough!
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I'm sure you're right, but for the sake of the "limited budget," lets talk about one thing at a time here... performance??? :glasses7:
 
Bill Dedman said:
I'm sure you're right, but for the sake of the "limited budget," Lets talk about one thing at a time here... performance??? :glasses7:
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well thats what im trying to figure out, why bother with new rods? just get some new pistons or even new cast ones in an ober bore size to clean up the bore and have at it. these Federal Mogle pistons have been run to 12:1 for many seasons by some guys...

mine are over 300 passes and probably 10,000 street miles even after breaking down the motor once (didn't know about that heavy spring in the dizzy kicking in at about 4K!) because i shattered all my top rings and stuck a valve and eyebrowed a piston. still runs like a champ and no issues!

as stated get the bore clearance right and be damn sure to get the ring end gap right + a little lol
 
I thought one of the big advantages of the 198 rods was that it allowed a much shorter/lighter piston? That might not add power, but it should bring up the revs faster which is good for a turbo motor.
 
robertob said:
LOL, you could buy a 360, a used Edelbrock carb and a sb mopar transmission on craigslist for the cost of a set of rods & pistons, and it would be faster than your turbo slant.
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Dude, that motor won't touch the 150$ replacement junk yard motor I have right now. I'm sorry but your so wrong lol. I burned a zr1 getting on to the freeway, no 360 will do that haha.
 
If I just got new old pistons, that wouldn't achieve my goal, being less friction, faster boost build, modern pistons with the boost dish. If I use the 198 rods then I would use the dodge neon piston. I have a budget of about 500$ at the moment. And a 360?! Come on dude the point is that I want MPG with performance that's like oh yeah you have a nova so put a 454 in it, should be fast!
 
Another forum reader........

yall have fun
 
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