I am glad I stumbled on to your build 8) I am learning allready :happy10:
Very cool build and I bet the engine is lighter :cheers:
Very cool build and I bet the engine is lighter :cheers:
68 4-door "Sleeper"
- Thread starter 4door68
- Start date
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I have the rear seat belts, bolts and all hardware from my 69 moredoor grocery getter. Anyone know if they are the same as what he needs? If so 4door you can have them, just pay shipping. Let me know if I can help with anything else.
Here`s mine..
[ame="http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=1zmiis6&s=6"]http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=1zmiis6&s=6[/ame]
Red : I`ll be doing your tracing this weekend, and should be ready to ship monday. Let you know then.
Here`s mine..
[ame="http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=1zmiis6&s=6"]http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=1zmiis6&s=6[/ame]
Red : I`ll be doing your tracing this weekend, and should be ready to ship monday. Let you know then.
MoparDart68
Well-Known Member
Seca900r,
What's under the hood of your Dart? You really smoked that mustang.
4Door68,
Looking good, keep up the awesome work. Your Dart is now officially cooler than mine.
Thanks
`71 340 .030 over, j heads p&p, headers, holley 670, rpm air gap, manual steering, orange box, electric water pump, 727 with some goodies, 2500 stall, 8 1/4 with 3.55, Hoosier quicktime pro 26x9.5x14. Lightened as much as possible without cutting it all to hell. Just completed the swap to 4.11 gears and will be going to the track this thursday to see what that does. While im there this time I`ll make a few runs then uncork it to see what that does. Also have a 3000 stall that i guess i`ll put in over the winter. Then mini tub to get it to hook, welll you get it the list never ends. lol
That guy in the loud *** mustang was maddddd8)
`71 340 .030 over, j heads p&p, headers, holley 670, rpm air gap, manual steering, orange box, electric water pump, 727 with some goodies, 2500 stall, 8 1/4 with 3.55, Hoosier quicktime pro 26x9.5x14. Lightened as much as possible without cutting it all to hell. Just completed the swap to 4.11 gears and will be going to the track this thursday to see what that does. While im there this time I`ll make a few runs then uncork it to see what that does. Also have a 3000 stall that i guess i`ll put in over the winter. Then mini tub to get it to hook, welll you get it the list never ends. lol
That guy in the loud *** mustang was maddddd8)
78d200
Ph.D. in Ducttapeology
Very cool build! You are doing a really good job.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Cool..MoreDoor..build.Welcome to FABO,I can see already lots of guys willing to help with your build.Sleeper for sure!:cheers:
I will PM you with the address. Do you take PayPal as payment? Or, I can send you a check. I am not in a hurry. I can't imagine that 69 seat belt bolts would be any different than 68.
I don't think it is cooler than yours. Yours is cherry. Although, if I had your Dart, I would feel guilty about doing what I am doing. Since my isn't "pristine', I am allowed to have a little leeway.
Thank you... It's the feedback on this forum that keeps me motivated.
It's amazing how much men will pay to get a 13 inch...
Here is what I have to report today...
1. I ordered a new coil since one of the coils was damaged in the accident. (The truck that I got the engine from was hit hard in the front end.)
2. I also ordered a new dip stick. The dip stick that was damaged had the "T" handle broken off.
Today, I started to painting the AlterKtion kit... I used KBS coatings "Rust Seal". There is something strange about the KBS "Rust Seal". I think it must be a moisture-cured urethane coating. Here is why I think so...
For one thing, the label mentions "isocyanate". Right away, that makes me think urethane.
Second, if you happen to get any on your skin, you might as well wait until the skin comes off. It's sort of like getting that "Great Stuff" urethane foam on your skin. It's on there until the skin comes off.
Also, I tried to make it cure out quicker by putting it under a heat lamp but, it doesn't speed it up.
One thing I don't like about KBS Rust Seal is that no matter how well you clean the surface, you still get fish eyes.
So much for me sounding off...
Here is today's report.
I broke out the sand blaster and blasted the front suspension mounting points. It had some thick and crusty rust that I needed to remove before applying KBS Rust Seal. BTW, KBS Rust Seal lays out really nice to sand blasted metal.
Here is the AlterKtion with a coat of KBS Rust Seal.
I sandblasted the area around the front suspension mounting points and then coated it with KBS Rust Seal.
While I had the KBS Rust Seal out, I went ahead and coated the pulley on the engine. I used a brush for this one.
One more thing... I bought paint that was supposed to match the OEM finish. However, I must have given the wrong paint code or something because, that paint looks like Army green. (check out the trunk paint from a previous post) I can't handle that. If I painted the whole car that color, I might as well put a big white star on the door. Since I am changing colors, I have decided to paint it something that will "POP". (It's so hot to say "POP" right now)
I am thinking a metallic blue that I had on my SRT-4 Neon from a few years ago.
I am also thinking, perhaps, a metallic brownish-orange. I have seen a Volvo with a pretty nice looking factory brownish-orange paint job.
Any suggestions on color?
Since I am putting the Hemi in, I am going to have to modify the fenderwells. I am using TinCup as my inspiration.
Here is what he did...
Here is my plan... I am going to cut along the dotted line and weld in some sheet metal.
1. I ordered a new coil since one of the coils was damaged in the accident. (The truck that I got the engine from was hit hard in the front end.)
2. I also ordered a new dip stick. The dip stick that was damaged had the "T" handle broken off.
Today, I started to painting the AlterKtion kit... I used KBS coatings "Rust Seal". There is something strange about the KBS "Rust Seal". I think it must be a moisture-cured urethane coating. Here is why I think so...
For one thing, the label mentions "isocyanate". Right away, that makes me think urethane.
Second, if you happen to get any on your skin, you might as well wait until the skin comes off. It's sort of like getting that "Great Stuff" urethane foam on your skin. It's on there until the skin comes off.
Also, I tried to make it cure out quicker by putting it under a heat lamp but, it doesn't speed it up.
One thing I don't like about KBS Rust Seal is that no matter how well you clean the surface, you still get fish eyes.
So much for me sounding off...
Here is today's report.
I broke out the sand blaster and blasted the front suspension mounting points. It had some thick and crusty rust that I needed to remove before applying KBS Rust Seal. BTW, KBS Rust Seal lays out really nice to sand blasted metal.
Here is the AlterKtion with a coat of KBS Rust Seal.
I sandblasted the area around the front suspension mounting points and then coated it with KBS Rust Seal.
While I had the KBS Rust Seal out, I went ahead and coated the pulley on the engine. I used a brush for this one.
One more thing... I bought paint that was supposed to match the OEM finish. However, I must have given the wrong paint code or something because, that paint looks like Army green. (check out the trunk paint from a previous post) I can't handle that. If I painted the whole car that color, I might as well put a big white star on the door. Since I am changing colors, I have decided to paint it something that will "POP". (It's so hot to say "POP" right now)
I am thinking a metallic blue that I had on my SRT-4 Neon from a few years ago.
I am also thinking, perhaps, a metallic brownish-orange. I have seen a Volvo with a pretty nice looking factory brownish-orange paint job.
Any suggestions on color?
Since I am putting the Hemi in, I am going to have to modify the fenderwells. I am using TinCup as my inspiration.
Here is what he did...
Here is my plan... I am going to cut along the dotted line and weld in some sheet metal.
Today, I was able to mount the exhaust manifolds and, also, the engine mounts to the engine. The factory truck exhaust manifolds are NOT going to work. So, I called TTI and ordered some headers (with the polished ceramic coating). They should be here in about a week. $800 is pretty steep but, who else makes headers for this application? Oh, well. If I don't spend it, my kids will... when I die.
Since there isn't too much else I can do engine-wise, I guess I will start on body work.:crybaby:
Since there isn't too much else I can do engine-wise, I guess I will start on body work.:crybaby:
Would they work with the AlterKtion engine mounts?
I have never had good luck with headers. I always get a tick that annoys me. Call me anal. Cast iron manifolds always seal... for me anyways.
Not much to report.
I started assembling the front suspension after coating the bare steel with KBS Rust Seal.
I also blasted the upper a frames and coated them with KBS Rust Seal.
I have decide to paint the car the same blue color of my 2003 Dodge Neon SRT-4. So today, I sanded and blasted the trunk getting it ready for paint.
This car is WAY over budget (not that I really had one). Oh, well. If I don't spend it, my kids will.
I started assembling the front suspension after coating the bare steel with KBS Rust Seal.
I also blasted the upper a frames and coated them with KBS Rust Seal.
I have decide to paint the car the same blue color of my 2003 Dodge Neon SRT-4. So today, I sanded and blasted the trunk getting it ready for paint.
This car is WAY over budget (not that I really had one). Oh, well. If I don't spend it, my kids will.
I'm an accountant. It's my nature to keep up with the costs.
Well heres the thang about that.
I freely admit that I DONT know if there will be an interference with the fit of the AlterKtion setup.
BUT
The flanges seal REALLY good. I have helped install this on 5 diferent cars including mine and never had a leak. The flanges are about 3/8's " thick and clamp tight. You WILL need new hardware. Use stainless only, stock SRT8 gasket only. ANything else is a waste of money.
The real issue , AFAIK, is gonna be fender clearance in the rear.
You are looking at a 35% increase in airflow and airflow plus intake temp is KING in these HEMI's.
Can I get a photo of the engoine mocked into place within the engine bacy? I could prolly eyeball it...
It would be really worth it.....
Today's report...
My TTI headers came in today. I finger-tightened the bolts just to see what it looked like. These are some quality pieces. I highly recommend them.
I also received my polished stainless steel valve cover bolts. Once again, very nice quality pieces. My only complaint... the metal is a little soft. Of course, I HATE allen head anything.
I started to cut out the fenderwells for the hemi head clearance. First, I measured to the top of the AlterKtion K frame to get my starting point. Then, I used a sharpie and a ruler to mark the cut lines.
I started the cut with a cut off tool.
Then, I used an air saw to make the cuts. This makes some really nice cuts.
When it came to the factory shock supports, the air saw couldn't handle it. I got out the sawz-all with the 6 inch blade to cut through them.
When it was all finished, it looked like this...
The top of the shock tower was spot welded to the fenderwell so, I cut out the spot welds.
That's all that I was able to accomplish today in the 2 hours that I can safely work (before the wife starts to nag.)
My TTI headers came in today. I finger-tightened the bolts just to see what it looked like. These are some quality pieces. I highly recommend them.
I also received my polished stainless steel valve cover bolts. Once again, very nice quality pieces. My only complaint... the metal is a little soft. Of course, I HATE allen head anything.
I started to cut out the fenderwells for the hemi head clearance. First, I measured to the top of the AlterKtion K frame to get my starting point. Then, I used a sharpie and a ruler to mark the cut lines.
I started the cut with a cut off tool.
Then, I used an air saw to make the cuts. This makes some really nice cuts.
When it came to the factory shock supports, the air saw couldn't handle it. I got out the sawz-all with the 6 inch blade to cut through them.
When it was all finished, it looked like this...
The top of the shock tower was spot welded to the fenderwell so, I cut out the spot welds.
That's all that I was able to accomplish today in the 2 hours that I can safely work (before the wife starts to nag.)
Slow day, today. I fabricated the drivers side fender well. I ran out of argon and had some really crappy welds. I switched to flux core welding wire and had a lot of slag to grind away. Not only that, but I kept burning holes through the sheet metal.
I smoothed it out the best that I could and then let bondo fill in the low spots.
I smoothed it out the best that I could and then let bondo fill in the low spots.
swing69
fightin' socialism
do yourself a favor, get a gas shielding tank for that MIG, you'll thank yourself. It will make 1000x better welds than flux core popping all over the place. Less cleaning and stronger welds.
I hear you. I have an argon tank but, it ran out today as I was welding. Being Saturday, the welding supply house is closed. I should have stopped working until I got my argon refilled but, I was impatient. The other fenderwell should come out MUCH better.
Having a sleeper wasn't my original plan. But, after reading through other FABO builds and, finding an available hemi, I though "What the hell?"
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