69 cuda 340 slipper clutch?

-
Danimal

Danimal

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Washington
I have a blown 1969 cuda (871 on a 340) its a 4 speed car with a liberty faceplated hemi box and A 488 dana out back im trying to decide what clutch to run ive been looking at the mcleaod slipper clutch is there and other good options? or ideas? thanks
 
hope this is the rite location for this I did know to ask here or in the 4 speed section
 
I have always spoken directly with the manufacturers in regards to clutches. I just shelved a McLeod clutch,wore out the cover of the pressure plate from to many installs. I think your scattershield will need to be cut for access covers to adjust a soft loc. Call them up, they will tell you.
 
if it is for mostly drag race then definetly use the slipper clutch,i"ve been using one in my 340 duster for the last 3 years and it works great. I bought mine through tim hyatt ( Hyatt racing) great to deal with
 
the bellhousing doesn't need to be cut. you drill a hole on the back side next to trans and reach in with long allen wrench to adjust each adjuster to set base pressure. that 's how it's done.
 
Have you dynoed the motor? I've been running the McLeod RXT for two seasons with no clutch or trans issues. That's behind 760hp big block and 7000 rpm launches on slicks at the track.
 
IT made 703 at 7200 rpm with 12 psi of boost im not to worried about the clutch have issues im thinking the slipper may be easier on the trans and rear end. I would rather no run a slipper if its not needed but I don't want lots of broken parts not sure how long that hemi 4 speed will handle it
 
I haven't broke any parts in my Hemi 4 speed yet and that's without a slipper clutch. 7000 rpm launches with slicks and 3,700lbs with me in it. I sent all my internals to liberty to have them shot peened and chryo treated.
 
great information thanks I would much rather run the clutch I have to keep it more street friendly incase I want to street drive it
 
Weight is your biggest enemy. The lighter it is the easier it'll be on the trans and drivetrain. Good luck with it all.
 
it should end up about 3300lbs what do you run for a drive shaft and rear gears? I am having a new onne made next week thinking .095 wall and 1350 ujoints
 
I had a driveshaft made by Dennys. It's there Nitrous Ready steel driveshaft with 1350 joints. The rear is a Strange 60 with 4.30 gears.
 
My soft loc is softer on release than any of my street clutches have been, with a softer pedal. It is VERY street friendly in my opinion, just don't slip it like a teenage girl driving a Honda.
 
Not to take you away from here because there seems to be a lot more soft loc clutch users than I thought there would be.....I've got a lot of really good info from both here and at this site. http://www.umtrnorth.com. There are only a couple mopar guys on there but they really got me started with some basic set up stuff for counter weights and base pressures, there really is an art that never ends to setting up a consistent stick car. Lots of good suspension tips on there as well. Good luck
 
I gotta ask. Don't you need a harder compound slick with a clutch? So the car can slip the tires off the line. Cause when you drop the clutch near redline somethings gonna slip.
 
Not necessarily a harder slick, you just have to play with the tire pressure a little more to find the sweet spot between bogging the motor down and hooking or tire spin.
 
MT offers a stick compound, so does phoenix!! its harder , lasts lot longer. most real racers use them. also that's why you use a soft loc clutch to prevent parts breakage.
the clutch has give to it. almost like a convertor. I've used rag disc and also soft loc. much prefer soft loc. too hard of clutch and blows tires off or bogs badly!
 
They don't offer the harder compound in every tire size. Sometimes you have to make due by altering tire pressure and suspension instead. But perfacar is correct that they do offer some tire sizes for stick cars.
 
this is all very good information thanks guys. I will take a look at umtr site aswell I need to order my clutch in the next day or two so I guess I better decide
 
i was asking the same question you were last year, should I or shouldn't I go adjustable. Personally , I'm glad I did, think of it as an adjustable stall in a auto trans, it works just the same except it doesn't exist in an auto. As for street. (If your foot is heavy)Dial the base pressure up and it works just like any other clutch. I can drive mine on the street with my race set up but I don't throw my foot down from 1100 rpm, sometimes I'm to lazy to get under the car for the 10 min to adjust it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top